Interior over Haul

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timjohnson22

timjohnson22

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Pictures of day 3. I am going to post 3 sets of pictures. Tell me what you think. Thanks in advanced.
 

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timjohnson22

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more pictures 2
 

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timjohnson22

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more pictures 3
 

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Freenaz

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Wow that is a lot of work it looks good. Thx for all the pix I can't wait to see the finished product.
 

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Looking good so far. What's the plan for the piece that hold the amps on the hatch finish wise? I know its not gonna stay naked board how it is right now.
Also you will need new hatch struts, or probably just new highly charged struts every couple of months.
 

puckhead

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This is a huge project, looking real good! Keep it up!
 
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timjohnson22

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The piece that holds and covers the amps is going to be cut so the amps only show. Once it is cut we are going to rhino line it just like the woofer box.

We have been looking everywhere to find hatch struts that would work and no luck. The OEM's are the strongest that we could find and they are rated at 244 pounds. That rear hatch is heavy as hell without the struts and they have an angle on each tip. I am going to have to do some more research on the hatch shocks before I look into getting an accuator. The only thing that I don't like about the accuator is that you have to hold the button until its completely open.
 
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deangrell

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Why not double up on the struts? Just add add'l struts to the OEM setup. It might look a bit funky...but how often is it open just to show off?
 

BabyHuey

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What is going on with teh back of the driver's seat? Why is it taken apart? Lots of work, cant wait to see it complete.
 

jcrack_corn

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first the bad....i realy dont like the box for the sub....way to square imo....get them to add some big radius edges and wrap in factory match vinyl...just my opionion...i prefer factory blending

now the good...the rest looks great, planning looks great.

regarding the linear actuator it should be no issue at all to program it it to run for a certain time (ie 5 seconds to open , 4 seconds to close) with a few relays and a pic board..your installers should be able to do this. and the factory signal to the current motor would make a fine on/off trigger.

The piece that holds and covers the amps is going to be cut so the amps only show. Once it is cut we are going to rhino line it just like the woofer box.

We have been looking everywhere to find hatch struts that would work and no luck. The OEM's are the strongest that we could find and they are rated at 244 pounds. That rear hatch is heavy as hell without the struts and they have an angle on each tip. I am going to have to do some more research on the hatch shocks before I look into getting an accuator. The only thing that I don't like about the accuator is that you have to hold the button until its completely open.
 
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UofMZ71

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first the bad....i realy dont like the box for the sub....way to square imo....get them to add some big radius edges and wrap in factory match vinyl...just my opionion...i prefer factory blending

now the good...the rest looks great, planning looks great.

i have to agree, i think the rhino lined look is too rugged for the interior of our trucks (would look sweet in a Jeep). Maybe some cup holders and some other factory finished touches to make it blend better

the rest, wow, seems like some work! great planning and 'A' for effort!
 
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timjohnson22

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The monitors were in before the install but they had to be disconected to run all the wires under the carpet. The amp cover will not be finished until Monday or Tuesday. I will post the final pictures.
 

taylorsimoneaux

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I can't wait to see the battery/electrical system you plan to run all this off of.
Props though, sure as hell not afraid to cut up a new car.
 

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