I think its bad, like all of it.

[TreeChase]

So im no mechanic my friend helped we with brakes once, but im very eager to learn. I went underneath it for the first time since i bought it and i was ashamed. I think it all started with the 2 inch rough country level kit, and i didnt put enough effort into fixing it. i think i took it to shops about 5 times. it had the tire pull and uneven wear. its like trying to ride a bull getting on the freeway. for years. i also did dumb stuff back in the day as well but its time for some love. ive read that the jounces need to be against the lower control arm, and mine are definetely not. i was gonna see if i could loosen the tortion bars until they made contact, and the driver side bolt is snapped off. while i was down there nothing looked happy. i think the coolant has a leak somewhere as well. the right rear shock has a cut wire, for the bottom plug thing. probably why the service ride control has been on for years, or maybe its the ground. seems like everyone is saying that swapping to bilstein 5100s and ditching the air ride. ive had electrical problems too. probably because of my terrible audio wiring which may also contribute to the pump. the heated seats sometimes constantly cycle, and often when its raining. so any insight would be awesome. ive always loved cars but never new anything about how they work, but lately its been really awesome looking stuff up and just getting in there it really starts to make sense. im also new to forums so if this is wrong place or im doing something wrong just let me know.

 

[S33k3r]

Firstly, I don't know what your budget is -- for time or money. That is sometimes a hurdle for doing everything you want to do. That said, addressing everything at once can be overwhelming, even with unlimited time OR unlimited money -- or both!

My suggestion is that you write down everything you want to fix, and then knock them off a little at a time. Several of things you mention are suspension related, so you can likely knock all of them off the list with a suspension refresh. I've been too chicken to try that one, myself!

That said, you did cover a LOT of topics. May I ask what is bothering you the most?

And if you have a 2003-2006 Escalade/Tahoe/Yukon, then you are in the right place. And welcome!

 

[TreeChase]

Firstly, I don't know what your budget is -- for time or money. That is sometimes a hurdle for doing everything you want to do. That said, addressing everything at once can be overwhelming, even with unlimited time OR unlimited money -- or both!

My suggestion is that you write down everything you want to fix, and then knock them off a little at a time. Several of things you mention are suspension related, so you can likely knock all of them off the list with a suspension refresh. I've been too chicken to try that one, myself!

That said, you did cover a LOT of topics. May I ask what is bothering you the most?

And if you have a 2003-2006 Escalade/Tahoe/Yukon, then you are in the right place. And welcome!

Yes it sure is! and thank you!

im mostly just trying to get it back to stock and happy. to floor it and go straight, and not eat tires haha. i just kinda wanted to give the full picture first. and right now i just want to get it back to normal. im getting new jounce stops one of them is actually broken (Dorman Control Arm Bumper). im thinking of getting a new tortion key set as im having trouble finding the bolt by itself. theres no way theres a bolt i can just get at home depot or something right?

i guess my first question after that though is the air suspension, how do i tell if its broken? sometimes the message comes on sometimes it doesnt. the bottom wire is cut on the right rear shock, i was thinking of wiring it back.

 

[TreeChase]

also it kinda seems like my tortion bars might pop out is that gap normal?

 

[OR VietVet]

A little gap is normal but I saw yours and thought the same. The keys are wound up and you said it is lifted.

First off: What the hell is the year/make/model or are you under the false impression that ALL 2000 to 2006 GMT800's are the same?

Keep it stock and will save you money in the long run. I am not a fan of the lifted torsion bar/independent front suspensions.

Because of that gap, you may need new lower arm(s). Put some MOOG 81069 rear coil springs in it and some good Bilstein or KYB shocks on the rear and a set of matching on the front. I did the rear springs/shocks swap on my Z71 and could not be happier. Make the suspension and brakes primo and then do a Black Bear tune and you will get the seat of the pants feel you are looking for, especially if you do the Hellwig Performance bars, front and rear. See my build thread.

Like @S33k3r said, make a list and do them one at a time. Also, may be not cost effective to fix and in the long run is gonna be better to buy another one, whatever that may be, and start from there.

You did not say where you live. Are you in a salt on the roads state? You don't but the truck came from one of those states?

 

[TreeChase]

A little gap is normal but I saw yours and thought the same. The keys are wound up and you said it is lifted.

First off: What the hell is the year/make/model or are you under the false impression that ALL 2000 to 2006 GMT800's are the same?

Keep it stock and will save you money in the long run. I am not a fan of the lifted torsion bar/independent front suspensions.

Because of that gap, you may need new lower arm(s). Put some MOOG 81069 rear coil springs in it and some good Bilstein or KYB shocks on the rear and a set of matching on the front. I did the rear springs/shocks swap on my Z71 and could not be happier. Make the suspension and brakes primo and then do a Black Bear tune and you will get the seat of the pants feel you are looking for, especially if you do the Hellwig Performance bars, front and rear. See my build thread.

Like @S33k3r said, make a list and do them one at a time. Also, may be not cost effective to fix and in the long run is gonna be better to buy another one, whatever that may be, and start from there.

You did not say where you live. Are you in a salt on the roads state? You don't but the truck came from one of those states?

2003 gmc yukon denali, and haha no im well aware of some of the challenges the AWD face

would having no torsion adjustment bolt be dangerous? im wondering if it would lower it enough to rest on the jounce. i might just get a new set of stock keys unless the ones i have are adjustable.

ive been in florida for about 5 years now, but yes from oregon. only salt should be from hurricane water lol

 

[dps01]

would having no torsion adjustment bolt be dangerous?

Is the bolt completely missing, or broken off? It’s hard to tell from the pictures. The torsion bars need to be under some load in order to work properly.

 

[dps01]

wondering if it would lower it enough to rest on the jounce.

Photo shows a shock extension. Along with the referenced 2” lift kit, you may not get the suspension to rest on the jounce.

When I leveled the front of my 2003 Z71 (stock key adjustment only / no shock extension) I used larger jounces from Timbren. They are pricey, but worked for me.

Stock height jounce:


Timbren SES jounce:


Side by side comparison:

The Timbren product has very little give under compression.

 

[TreeChase]

Photo shows a shock extension. Along with the referenced 2” lift kit, you may not get the suspension to rest on the jounce.

When I leveled the front of my 2003 Z71 (stock key adjustment only / no shock extension) I used larger jounces from Timbren. They are pricey, but worked for me.

Stock height jounce:
View attachment 451696

Timbren SES jounce:
View attachment 451697

Side by side comparison:
View attachment 451698

The Timbren product has very little give under compression.

its broken off, and barely sticking out the other end. i loosened the other one all the way so both of them are as low as they can go. that thing is thick! looks about perfect, but i read someone else has a gap just like it and it rides fine, but they swapped out for bilstein shocks. maybe its been my shocks this whole time?

 

[latvius]

As far as steering problems have you ever replaced your steering centerlink?

The seat heater is likely the control switch my Denali did the same thing often people can clean it by removing it from the door and opening it up and using some contact cleaner (if I remember right) but I ended up getting a new one.

 

[S33k3r]

its broken off, and barely sticking out the other end. i loosened the other one all the way so both of them are as low as they can go. that thing is thick! looks about perfect, but i read someone else has a gap just like it and it rides fine, but they swapped out for bilstein shocks. maybe its been my shocks this whole time?

If you want just the bolt, you might try FB Marketplace/Craigslist for a truck getting parted out. Or a junkyard. These are not parts that typically go quickly. You can also look at those trucks to see how stock might should look, to better understand what you have. Finally, if the bolts are the same on both sides, pull the good bolt and take it to the parts store to get two new ones. Even if the bolts are $5 each (which they should NOT be), $10 going into your suspension is nothing. Also, see if you can determine the maker of your lift kit. Contact them and get information from them.

 

[dps01]

The seat heater is likely the control switch

Or the ground under the drivers side door forward. This ground can cause problems especially if random cycling becomes more often during wet weather.

 

[TreeChase]

Or the ground under the drivers side door forward. This ground can cause problems especially if random cycling becomes more often during wet weather.

ill check it out! im sure with all the water that gets in there its the ground. and i put stock keys in and it drives straight! but i need an alignment.

 

[TreeChase]

A little gap is normal but I saw yours and thought the same. The keys are wound up and you said it is lifted.

First off: What the hell is the year/make/model or are you under the false impression that ALL 2000 to 2006 GMT800's are the same?

Keep it stock and will save you money in the long run. I am not a fan of the lifted torsion bar/independent front suspensions.

Because of that gap, you may need new lower arm(s). Put some MOOG 81069 rear coil springs in it and some good Bilstein or KYB shocks on the rear and a set of matching on the front. I did the rear springs/shocks swap on my Z71 and could not be happier. Make the suspension and brakes primo and then do a Black Bear tune and you will get the seat of the pants feel you are looking for, especially if you do the Hellwig Performance bars, front and rear. See my build thread.

Like @S33k3r said, make a list and do them one at a time. Also, may be not cost effective to fix and in the long run is gonna be better to buy another one, whatever that may be, and start from there.

You did not say where you live. Are you in a salt on the roads state? You don't but the truck came from one of those states?

Do you have a link to your build? and those hellwigs are pricey lol. i noticed one of these are loose, i believe its the front suspension stabilizer shaft link. its the thing going straight up and down. and then i have a pic of this rubber thing on the lower control arm its smushed but im having trouble finding it. also, what do you think about hp tuner?

 

[TreeChase]

As far as steering problems have you ever replaced your steering centerlink?

The seat heater is likely the control switch my Denali did the same thing often people can clean it by removing it from the door and opening it up and using some contact cleaner (if I remember right) but I ended up getting a new one.

i have not, after going with stock keys its night and day, but a bit wobbly here and there, i figured because i need an alignment. and what is a steering centerlink?

 

[latvius]

i have not, after going with stock keys its night and day, but a bit wobbly here and there, i figured because i need an alignment. and what is a steering centerlink?

Looks like this (this is not the one for your truck). I ask because it can be put in backwards which is impossible on a lot of other vehicles so people (me) assume it can only go in one way. The vehicle will still drive but it kinda acts like it is 4wd, as in wide turns bad ride, etc..

 

[Fless]

Do you have a link to your build? and those hellwigs are pricey lol. i noticed one of these are loose, i believe its the front suspension stabilizer shaft link. its the thing going straight up and down. and then i have a pic of this rubber thing on the lower control arm its smushed but im having trouble finding it. also, what do you think about hp tuner?

The "link" is one of the sway bar end links. The "smushed" thing is the boot of the lower ball joint.

For centerlink info, there is some good info in this thread:

03 Tahoe steering issue

I have a 2003 Tahoe, it has been leveled and had nearly every steering/suspension component replaced over time. I've been having a steering problem since I bought the truck that hasn't gone away through various alignments from different shops. The truck drives fine in a straight line, but the...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com