i got some paint questions and a servoquestion

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kickitandholdit

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i was looking at painting my rear vents and the black parts on my mirrors all gloss black. i really hate the stock dimpeled plastic on the mirrors. what kinda price would i be looking at? and does paint stay on that dempled plastic very well or do they sand that off? also i was thinking about geting the plastic between the windshield and the hood gloss black. does anybody have any reasons why that would be a bad idea?
on top of that i have reasearched the vette servo and i think its a good idea but does anybody have a price on it plus instalation? thanks for your time
 
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blueflamed03

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it's really hard to say, some shops will do it for like $100, and up to $250....search several local shops that have a good rep is the best advice.
 
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kickitandholdit

kickitandholdit

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it's really hard to say, some shops will do it for like $100, and up to $250....search several local shops that have a good rep is the best advice.

thanks man i can do 100. ill half to talk arround we bot a buch of local paint places i just needed to know a ball park price before i go in there because we all know usuly the price depends on how smart they think you are lol
 

Travieso

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i payed 40 bucks to do it, i just didnt want to go through the hassle of messing around with springs,plates etc..
 

tahoe7689

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I payed $30 locally to have it installed, I also had my pan dropped and serviced so they didnt charge labor to install the servo.
 

BOSS

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On the paint issue, painting plastic is 90% prep work and 10% painting. You have to use SEM products and follow their instructions to the letter, even getting more **** will save your ass. It takes me about 30mins to just clean all the old chemicals, mold agents, grease, armor-all etc off a single piece of plastic from my interior. I would call vinyl pro guys and let them know you are painting exterior pieces and ask for any advice specific to protecting the paint from the elements.

vinylpro.com I think


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tybardy

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I too want to paint my plastics but I have heard that the shit never holds for long unless it is done 100% correct... at which point I will end up paying out the ass to have someone that is trustable to do it.

I want to paint my front vallance so bad though
 

Eagle

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the one thing on the mirrors to think very hard about before doing this is that the power fold scuffs them up.
 

tahoe7689

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I would look into a special plastic paint, like Krylon for plastic, or oreillys has a special bumper/trim paint. I painted the plastic center cap on my brothers wheels with krylon and it has held very well, and he goes mudding and off roading all the time.
 
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92__silverado

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I have done two dashes and multiple center consoles with Duplicolor paint. As said before it is 90% prep work. That is the most important thing with any painting. With that said, those are all interior pieces not sure how Duplicolor would hold up to an exterior application.
 

MOBmentality

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There is a chemical called bulldog.. its in a spray can.. Prep the plastic.. clean it beyond clean.. you even have to be careful what cleaners you use.. then bulldog it.. THEN paint it... my front valence is painted.. and i have set the truck down on parking things and crushed it.. and it still looks like the day we painted it.
 

tybardy

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I have heard of that bulldog shit... never saw it in a rattle can though... you got a link?
 

tybardy

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stays more clear?? I thought the bullydog went on prior to paint and clearcoat...
 
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MOBmentality

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i would also reccomend using a paint that has a flex additive.. im not sure what rattle cans have one.. but like Krylon Fusion shows pics of them painting deck chairs and stuff.. so id assume it does

---------- Post added at 08:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:23 PM ----------

stays more clear?? I thought the bullydog went on prior tdoes tho paint and clearcoat...

It does.. we use it to prep surfaces for kandy .. like .. putting kandy on polished surfaces and headlights and stuff.. and bulldog works GREAT... but on a project like my bike using it as an adhesion promoter between highly polished metal and kandy paint.. where it had to stay perfectly clear so the kandy looks like real polished metal.. it was causing us issues.. i cant imagine those being any problems anyone doing a diy job would run into
 

tybardy

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yea, Im talking about matching factory white on a lower valance... pretty sure I am going to have more issues dealing with painting in my dusty garage
 

MOBmentality

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Wet the floor down and put a fan pulling the air OUT of the garage... and wait a few mins.. about your best scenerio w/o making a temp booth
 
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kickitandholdit

kickitandholdit

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thanks this has helped alot. i have painted alot of other peoples stuff using lost of prep work and im wating to see how it last before i paint my own haha
 

WHITEOUT

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tybardy-not hard to do it yourself. Like everyone else has stated, It's all about the Prep work. You have to get the mold release off the plastic, and armour all, if you use that on your outside. I did all my black plastics white almost a year ago, and live in AZ where the sun ki**s paints ass if not done right, and even when it is it sucks here. but you gotta use a plastic type paint that will be bendable once applied to a bendable product. And lots of clear coat will keep the color true through the years. I have rattle canned a few items with no problems, and had a buddy do some others with a sprayer. So... Your front valance is pretty easy though, just don't use any shine product on it for awhile, cause that stuff sucks when you go to paint it. PREP-PREP-PREP!!!! Can't state that more when it comes to plastics
 

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