I can't get front drive shaft to push back into transfer case.

[chicagochuck]

I am working on a 1998 Tahoe z71 4x4. The transfer case was ran dry and is now making all kinds of noises. Front output shaft seal was unknowingly leaking and now the case is toast.

This is the first time trying to pull the drive shaft so bare with me. I watched a few videos and followed.. unbolting the 4 bolts near the front differential.

Loosened the rubber boot near transfer case and put a pry bar in between the Yoke but the driveshaft will not push back into transfer case giving me the clearance to remove it.

I hammered a bit on the rear shaft trying to force it into the transfer case , but no luck. I didn't want to beat on it to bad but I guess i couldn't hurt the bad case... Am I doing something wrong?

Also the u joints move half way so they are not rusted in and I noticed when pushing up on the driveshaft near the transfer case it goes up and down so a lot of play in it, unless that's normal..

Thanks

 

[drakon543]

i can't remember what i did on mine when i pulled the transfer case. however no there shouldn't be much play there. also beating directly on the transfer case can damage it. they are meant to deal with the torque not direct impacts but cast will crack if you hit it right.

 

[exp500]

Splines must be dry. Try putting some lube on them to free up. Hopefully you won't have a big ski jump to get over. Vibration also helps here while trying to move it. Also with front jacked you get a little more. Could try walking U joint out a little at a time.

 

[bsamole]

I replaced the transfer case on my 99 4x4 Tahoe in March of this year. Perhaps there are other methods but in my case I unbolted the front axle from the frame to allow clearance to remove the front drive shaft.

My transfer case sounded like a rock crusher. I started to rebuild the TC but changed my mind when I saw all the broken bearings and metal shavings. I purchased a replacement on Ebay from GEARKING11.

 

[chicagochuck]

Ok. I don't have the front jacked up so I will try that and see if it helps. I'll also try to spray some lube onto the splines.

If i have to i'll unbolt the axle as well, I'll look into that. When I pulled the drain plug, of course no fluid came out, but it was plugged with what looks like brown dirt. I guess friction bands. But yes it sounds horrible especially in reverse.

I will report back. Thanks

 

[exp500]

Sometimes the obvious is what we dont see- Try unbolting t-case to move it aft. Coming out anyway. worst case, may have trouble removing driveshaft, put 4 of the 6 flange bolts back in or the 2 lower mount bolts.
Might even be able to knock ujoint caps out at front diff. You are gonna be under it all day!

 

[bsamole]

Great Idea exp500 wish I'd thought of that 4 months ago.

 

[chicagochuck]

I ended up knocking the caps off early yesterday and I was able to get the front u joint out. But the Drive shaft is stuck in the Transfer Case nonetheless. I have used a tie strap pulling it forward and knocking on it pretty good but it wont budge.

I'm on my back so I can't get the best angle. I think some people use a come along. Maybe I'll go buy one... At this point I might put it back together and take it to a shop. I am sure the back is likely the same.

Thanks

 

[exp500]

Likely to not come out easily(tcase with yoke on it), but you could try removing the rear ujoint caps leaving the yoke,or Cut the ujoint or the yoke off.. Rear driveshaft rarely sticks, if I understood your post correctly. Its used alot, they wear out yokes. You need a new front driveshaft anyway, so you could destroy it.

 

[chicagochuck]

Let me ask a few questions So if i do get the front shaft out its likely trash? splines damaged rusted or whatever.

Its my brothers truck so I just want to let him know of possibilities costs etc.

Do you think a Sawzall would do the job cutting the yolk or U joint?



I will focus on getting the back Drive shaft out. That'll be my task for today. Thanks

 

[exp500]

Cutoff wheel would be a sure thing, sawzall maybe, depends exactly where you cut. Yoke has a case hardened surface,once thru that sawzall no problem.
Yes you must replace front driveshaft Yoke. Recommend a Upullit- TCase and driveshaft. Also save switching box on side of tcase. Also SAVE your front D/S BOOT. No longer available seperately. Getting one from Upullit you can get all the plastic clips Harness attachments, vent line elbow and other hardware tough to find.
Recommend you split trans/tcase before you get parts- to decide if trans rear seal leaking.Trans fluid should not mix with tcase- failed tcase failed trans if leaking. Otherwise get trans from upullit too. If I remember right, the ujoints on front driveshaft are 3147's so cheap to fix rather than $300 for rebuilt.
With the front driveshaft yoke frozen to splines, Brother should have had noise/vibration in 4x4,especially on bumps when front suspension moves. Lube Splines on install. Make sure they are clean.

 

[chicagochuck]

Yes, I'll get the front splined yoke from the junk yard.

I'll let you know if I can get the T case out with front yoke attached, once i get the U joint out. I'm going to rent a ball joint/u joint press tomorrow. I am hoping I have enough clearance, do bring it down.

How do you know or whats the procedure to test if a junk yard T case is any good besides checking the the fluid and turning by hand checking for play in the yoke? And your procedure for testing a junk yard Trans?

According to Dash code NP8 I have the NP246 transfer case. So I have an idea what to look for... 98-2000...

Thanks

 

[Fless]

According to Dash code NP8 I have the NP246 transfer case. So I have an idea what to look for... 98-2000...

Expand your search; my '04 has the 246 also. Many of these trucks have the Auto T/C.

Now that I said that, you'll want to check the spline count on the shafts, it seems that there may have been a difference over the years. Also, the little shift shaft that the encoder motor turns, some have two flats on them and later ones have multiple splines.

 

[exp500]

Fless- good call, Spline count matters on output shaft too.
Take pictures of everything, really helps when you need it. Easier to count spines on a pic than layin on your back gettin dirt in your eyes.

 

[chicagochuck]

Update: I did get the T case out on Sunday. I ended up cutting the u joint. A guy a few miles from me has a T case from a 1999 Tahoe. But does not have the car anymore. He scraps a lot of cars. So he doesn't know if it had 4 button switch. It still has the yoke and front drive shaft attached.

The spline count is the same and its a NP246, with same gears as mine. But My T case has a blue Auto trak fluid sticker, his has yellow Dexron sticker, so I am not sure, it that means it wouldn't work.

 

[exp500]

Look in your glove compartment for the RPO codes. Run the numbers thru decoder or list. Determine if your electrics are Auto Trac. Which dash switch helps too.

 

[chicagochuck]

Thanks.

Will do