SnowDrifter
Full Access Member
I mean... I'll still need a change of underwear and a 5th of Jameson but I'll be fineI do exactly this! I’ve heard a few stories of jack stand failing and that’s a few too many for me!! Never can be too safe
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
I mean... I'll still need a change of underwear and a 5th of Jameson but I'll be fineI do exactly this! I’ve heard a few stories of jack stand failing and that’s a few too many for me!! Never can be too safe
FWIW on these rigs, unless you have stability control, the rear lines are on one circuit that splits off at the diff. Not really important which side ya do first so long as it's the rear.I have an old jack stand that's about 30-35 yars old. It's pretty much useless but I keep it both as a reminder and a lesson if I'm teaching a kid to work on cars. I was crawling under a '69 Chrysler with a bottle jack and the jack popped out and the car came down on the stand. It flattened the top of the stand. I use heavier stands now. If removing the wheel, I also slide the wheel that's removed under the frame so that if the stands do fail, and a lmb is under the car, it will stop short of crushing.
On bleeding brakes, Bleed the right rear first. Unless you're in England where they drive on the left instead of the correct side of the road. The right rear will bleed most of the system and then it's just a little for each of the others. Bleed until you get clean and clear fluid. DOT 3 and 4 fluid i hygroscopic and absorbes moisture from the air.