First Time tahoe owner

[NDGuy]

I'm looking at a '98 Tahoe tomorrow that's extremely clean and has 147k miles on it. Haven't driven it yet. 5.7L, auto tranny 4x4, leather interior, power everything, rear cargo doors, red with gray interior.


I just wanted opinions from people on this forum on these tahoes. I read A LOT of mixed reviews, some people have great ones and others get ones that are endless maintenance (these things seem really hit and miss), so, like I said, I want to hear what people on this forum have to say. I know it's a tahoe forum so it will be somewhat biased like every other vehicle forum, but I would like to know what your trouble spots are (whether you like the vehicle or not). I am not brand particular (have owned Ford, chevy, dodge, and toyota) so you won't get any bias from me, just questions.

I realize any vehicle wears out and needs to have things replaced but I have terrible luck with Vehicles. I've had 3 nice vehicles with low mileage that were great until a couple months into ownership and they went to shit, seems to happen with all my vehicles. Trying to finally find one that won't do this...

 

[BattelWagun]

Hello and welcome! Glad to see a potential owner!

here's the down low...

Pro's:
they're powerful, hardy, and useful. They can tow a LOT more than you think, the 350 vortec can run forever in not-so-perfect condition. Easy to repair and maintain by yourself. Most issues are sin=mple and easy to resolve. It's big, can hold a ton of crap, and roomy. Smooth ride (depending on condition), and great to look at!

cons:
They like to break (well some, at least) and usually without notice. Gas mileage just SUCKS. But thats with any full-size truck & V8 combo. Some of them consume front brakes like water. When they rust, they rust BAD... And all the usual 100K+ mileage issues.

things to look for:
-does it still have the orange GM antifreeze? This erodes the intake gaskets, and causes major problems.
-Does the engine idle smoothly? A rough idle/misfire can be cause by a number of pain in the ass problems
-how many miles on the tranny? They tend to go around 150k...
-are the fluids in the transfer case and both differentials okay? These tend to be neglected/
-how well taken care of is it? If its not too well taken care of, be leary, because this could lead to a bunch of issues again down the line..
-is there any rust? this just sucks in general.
-how does it ride? is the steering sloppy? does the steering wheel wobble/pulsate after hitting a big bump, or at certain speeds? This means you'll need an alignment and possibly need new suspension bushings and shocks.
-Check the rear leaf springs to make sure nothing in the spring pack is cracked.
-has it been eating antifreeze? does it leak antifreeze? This is a sign of a bad intake gasket. Big job to do, and expensive if you get it done at a shop.
-does it eat or leak oil? Also bad, but potentially not too bad depending on from where.
-all the other things, cosmetic quality, etc...

Don't mean to scare you away... Hope I didn't, just making sure your armed with all the knowledge you need. Good luck with everything and let us know how it all goes!

 

[LSUz71]

Wish i had that check list when i was looking.
Great info and he nailed it. Use the above tomorrow
Check trans fluid/oil. Get under it and look for oil leaks/any leaks.

 

[NDGuy]

Well I ran an auto check. It's been a 1-owner since 1998, person leased it for 2 years then bought it. No accidents, damage, salvage, etc... Last odometer reading was at 86k miles (has 147k now).

Good to know it's a one owner but the make me think....was something starting to go bad on it or did they just decide it's time for something new?

 

[NDGuy]

Alright, took it on a 30 min test drive and was impressed with the exception of a few things.

Good:
-Idles very smoothly
-All power options work (windows, locks, seats, etc....)
-Engine bay is clean and has no visible leaks
-Took it down a rough road (at a slow speed) and there were no suspension noises or clunks/rattles to speak of
-Accelerated great, brakes had good stopping power but pedal was soft (like every other tahoe I've been in)
-Same owner since 2000, only got rid of it for good deal on brand new escalade
-Interior and body are EXTREMELY clean. No rust anywhere (except for frame, but it's just some pitting, body and floor pans have no rust anyhwere)


Bad
-Transmission seems to "kick" from 1st to 2nd. All my vehicles have shifted firmly but this one kicks up to 2nd from 1st. Original tranny, 147k miles, I know they tend to go around this mileage.
-ABS light on
-Windshield wipers don't work on any speed





I'm buying the vehicle from a dealer (unfortunately) and the sales guy said he has to talk to his manager to see what they can do about price or fixing things. He said if they fix the wipers the price stays firm or they can maybe work on a price if they don't fix those items. The dealer wants $5k for it, and don't get me wrong, it's excellent cosmetically and 90% mechanically, but I'm not paying $5,000 for a 14 year old vehicle that has possible electrical problems (wipers), tranny problems, and needs ABS work. I'll see what their offer is.


Thanks for the help.

 

[skooter65]

Alright, took it on a 30 min test drive and was impressed with the exception of a few things.

Good:
-Idles very smoothly
-All power options work (windows, locks, seats, etc....)
-Engine bay is clean and has no visible leaks
-Took it down a rough road (at a slow speed) and there were no suspension noises or clunks/rattles to speak of
-Accelerated great, brakes had good stopping power but pedal was soft (like every other tahoe I've been in)
-Same owner since 2000, only got rid of it for good deal on brand new escalade
-Interior and body are EXTREMELY clean. No rust anywhere (except for frame, but it's just some pitting, body and floor pans have no rust anyhwere)


Bad
-Transmission seems to "kick" from 1st to 2nd. All my vehicles have shifted firmly but this one kicks up to 2nd from 1st. Original tranny, 147k miles, I know they tend to go around this mileage.
-ABS light on
-Windshield wipers don't work on any speed





I'm buying the vehicle from a dealer (unfortunately) and the sales guy said he has to talk to his manager to see what they can do about price or fixing things. He said if they fix the wipers the price stays firm or they can maybe work on a price if they don't fix those items. The dealer wants $5k for it, and don't get me wrong, it's excellent cosmetically and 90% mechanically, but I'm not paying $5,000 for a 14 year old vehicle that has possible electrical problems (wipers), tranny problems, and needs ABS work. I'll see what their offer is.


Thanks for the help.

I Can;t speak for many of your concerns as I too just recently purchased a 1999 Tahoe. However, I did want to give you a bit of a price comparison as it sounds like the two vehicles are nearly identical. Mine = 1999 Tahoe, Red/Grey Two-Tone exterior, Grey Leather Interior, 142,000 miles, excellent condition inside and out. I paid $3,200 private sale.

Location plays a big role but this can at least give you a ballpark figure for what to expect to pay.

 

[NDGuy]

I Can;t speak for many of your concerns as I too just recently purchased a 1999 Tahoe. However, I did want to give you a bit of a price comparison as it sounds like the two vehicles are nearly identical. Mine = 1999 Tahoe, Red/Grey Two-Tone exterior, Grey Leather Interior, 142,000 miles, excellent condition inside and out. I paid $3,200 private sale.

Location plays a big role but this can at least give you a ballpark figure for what to expect to pay.

I've never minded paying a little more for a vehicle that has documentation and proof of being well taken care of, and the location is the big thing here. I live 2 hours east of the center of the oil boom in ND (oil is getting closer to where I live, too) and finding a decent used vehicle (at a decent price) out here is next to impossible. And if something goes wrong, you have a hell of a time getting your vehicle to a mechanic in a reasonable amount of time.

 

[1999hoe]

Dont forget you are part of one of the best trouble shooting forums for any class of vehicle these guys know there stuff and can offer you advise that can save you hundreds even thousands down the toad ....

 

[SunlitComet]

wiper less then $100, Abs is probably a dirty front wheel sensor. And for what it is worth my tranny kicks the same since rebuild last year. That just means I need to stay on full throttle longer.

 

[_Dylan_]

The trans could break tomorrow or in 20 years. The "kick" is a bad valvebody which isn't cheap to replace. It is common on late 90s chevy trucks and s10/blazers.

 

[LSUz71]

Well what kind of kick? Is it just firm or has aclunk to it? Those drive shaft's are bad for becoming dry.
And don't rule the abs as just being a dirty sensor. Could be a bad bearing or sensors. I'd call locally to see if anyone can replace the wipers and get quotes then see how much the stealership is willing to knock off if they sell it as is.
Also opt for a warranty if available (even if it's 500$ more)

 

[19Yukon97]

MY truck had the ABS light on when i bought it two years ago. It was a dirty front wheel sensor. Just took it off and bought new ones. Mine had a leaky intake manifold gasket. Took a weekend to fix it wasnt difficult. Just teedidious and time consuming. My tranny kicks into 2nd gear. kinda jolts you in your seat a bit. I got a blackbear performance tune when i deleted my EGR and i had my shifts changed. that fixed the tranny some. Im wanting mine to blow, that way i can get my 4l80 for the new motor later on down the road. Family friend has a surburban that is a POS never taken care of. Just beat to crap. The motor gets its oil changed every 10k miles. its 15 years old. the transmission fluid is the factory stuff. It runs like a champ. it has like 500k miles on it... hes in nationwide construction they drive it everywhere. I wouldnt rule that truck out. I paid 6750 for mine. even with a small oil drip on the ground at the dealership. If you can turn a wrench and want to turn a wrench i say buy it and fix it up. They are great vehicles. (except in the wind, its like a brick wall in this texas wind sometimes) I will never sell my truck. parents paid for it for graduation. i put about 3k into it and plan on spending more. (lift, wheels, tires, motor, tranny, changin the interior to newer style.) (big ole money pit) sorry for the long post. im bored in my college english class....

 

[TheBlueBeast]

I paid $5995 for mine, minus the trade in, so about $4K. Mine is a 1996 4 door, 4 wheel drive, LT, leather, power everything, barn doors. When I got it it had 107K on the clock. So far I've prolly put around $500 in it just fixing little maintenance things, brake line rotted out, power steering line leak, small rust hole, front brakes and oil/fluid changes. My brake light is on and the power locks don't work (the key fob does though) but I'm not worried about either of theses. The ABS and parking brake work, so prolly a dirty sensor that needs cleaned/replaced and I usually drive by myself so the door locks aren't an issue.

I don't drive it like I stole it, and if I'm INCREDIBLY careful, aka don't drive above 60 mph, I can eke out 20-22 mpg highway, but usually I average closer to 18 highway since I don't want to get ran over by the semis.

I love this truck though. I'm 6'5" and 290 lbs, and this is the first time I have a vehicle I don't feel cramped in, and I know it will carry all my crap with me that I need. Last winter, mild by normal standards, I never had to use the 4x4, which is impressive, but in a ~ 3 ton truck, it tends to sink in and grip fairly well.

That's my two cents.

 

[SunlitComet]

500 pounds. Comfy as well. $1600 at 232k in October '10 Dumped 8k in it so far. And it NEEDS a lot more. It's a keeper.

 

[BattelWagun]

I'm just saying, I had the kick for 5 years. No problems. Im sure it jerks a little too when shifting from drive to reverse, etc. Those are all 'traits' of an OBS chevy... Like somebody said, the trans could go today or last you to 250k. Thats a chance item. However, it seems okay so far. Where is the truck located? if it's in the northern US, I would check for excessive rust. And try to get the wiper issue resolved... Otherwise, it seems okay!

Sorry if i repeated anything, didn't bother to read any posts... lack of time...

 

[992dr]

My wipers worked when they wanted to, hah. I replaced the board and motor, they have worked great since. That was almost 4 years ago, sorry I had said 5 in other posts.
As for the ABS lite, the dealer should NOT sell a vehicle with any lites on, period. If anything is wrong, they are responsible. Whether its fixed or not, it can still happen when you drive off the lot. That goes for anything they say they fixed.
Be aware, that is the most important thing about buying a used vehicle, specifically a Tahoe.
Read through the forums, google is your friend also.

 

[LSUz71]

The dealership sold me my thoe with abs light. But dang y'all paid alot for obs. I paid 6k for my 01! But i got one heck of a deal

 

[NDGuy]

Well I passed on the Tahoe because it would have been closer to $6k out the door after taxes, license, title transfer, etc... I don't want to spend too much because I'm trying my hardest to save up for a 60's mustang (wanted one since I was 10), HOWEVER, I just found a 1995 4 door Yukon in excellent shape with 140k miles and this one is $4k from a private party, not a dealer, so I'm checking that out today.

Thanks for all the info & replies.

 

[992dr]

Good Luck
Let us know how it goes.

 

[aidandj]

Great cars

I bought mine for 4250, including snow tires at 117k. Before I bought it I took it to a dealer to have them check it out. They quoted me 5000 to put it into perfect condition. (They then tried to sell me a 99 tahoe on their lot with 130k on it for more). I did most of the work myself and spent under 1k. (Paid for new front and rear breaks, and rear diff rebuild.). Other than that I fixed almost everything myself with very little prior experience. Still need to fix the intake gasket though, how important is that anyways?