Ever replaced your AC compressor yourself?

[ScottyBoy]

My AC compressor is locking up now. It has destroyed 4 belt tensioners now, so I am just driving in this hot ass weather with the AC belt off now. I got a few quotes on having my compressor replaced and every shop wants about 1200 bucks or more. And that is with a cheap ass remanufactured compressor. I can get a brand new AC Delco compressor and drier for about 300$ from Rockauto. I found a shop that will drain the refrigerant and let me replace the parts then bring it back to him and he will flush the lines and vacuum it and refill it with refigerant all for about 150$. I have done plenty of other mechanic work on my vehicles, but never messed with any AC stuff. I'm sure if I can replace a starter, alternator and water pump, then I can replace a compressor and drier. But my question is....Is there anything I should be aware of or pay special attention to? And should I put some PAG oil or something in the compressor? I am planning on replacing the compressor, Drier/accumulator, orifice tube, and the belt and tensioner.

 

[chip]

(My Dad was an A/C tech.)

If you're going to have them charge the system for you after you're done, then you should be good. Just swap the parts. They should put the oil and refridgerant in it for you.

If I'm not mistaken, it should just be a part swap (like your alternator).

GL. Let us know.

 

[TnTahoe]

if they will do all of that for $150 then u got a good ass deal, swapping the compressor is a piece of cake, just 4 main bolts and remove the lines, and yes you will need to add some pag oil to your new compressor, they say to pour the oil out of the old one and then add that much oil to the new one you also add some oil to the drier as well, i replaced all of my a/c components except the lines and it was pretty easy but the hardest part of it all was removing and replacing the damn orifice tube

 

[Ironman1979]

just be real careful on the lines.. they have a tendency to lock up really tight and will twist off if your not careful.. then your into more parts and hassle

 

[2005yukonxl]

ya'll got all the points already. oil, careful with the lines, etc. its super easy to bolt one up. just make sure, and i know u wont, make sure not to put the belt on it until you get it to the shop and let them do it before they charge it. u dont want to run the compressor even though some oil is in there....

 

[chip]

Use line wrenches!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[ScottyBoy]

Well all went well. I got everything replaced and went and had it vacuumed and filled with 3 lbs of 134a. Everything is good now, you can hang meat in my truck if you wanted to. According to my Fluke, the temp at the front vents is 36 and 40 at the rear AC vents.
Swapping out the compressor was a piece of cake. Just took my time to replace and lube all the O rings and all. My water pump started leaking so I had to pull that off and replace it again. I decided to put it off and do it at the same time as the AC. Boy did that make things easier. With the water pump off, I had all the room in the world to wrench on the compressor. Then once I got all the lines reconnected, I put the new water pump on. That took me a whole 15 minutes! Being that this is the second water pump I put on this truck, I had the whole process down pat. The hardest part is getting the damn fan off. Lol! But that will also be a thing of the past because I just got a set of E-fans as well, complete with a factory harness. I should have those mounted and running one day this week.

 

[BaggedDenali00]

man i am too late.... sorry but me and a buddy are making brackets for LSx engines now and this is for the guys that do the LSx swaps in older cars that have a problem with the stock comp hitting the k member. so our bracket uses a common and inexpensive sanden compressor and moves forward to use the 6 rib main belt too lemme know what you guys think??? my yukon is in the shop getting a new trans... then i will install this on my truck as well... please give me any ideas or thoughts or suggestions thanks

note the bottom idler has been moved further away in the new revision of brackets...

also we are starting to make what we call the Po Boy series of brackets for us LSx truck guys that want some flash but dont wanna rewire or re plumb for different accessories... lemme know what you guys and gals think about this too

will be for sale if i get enough people to want them... also can customize pulleys and what not for extra...

lemme know... Name of our biz is Monzter Motorsports and Specialty Fabrication

thanks

Brandon

 

[TnTahoe]

sure does look nice

 

[ScottyBoy]

Yeah, that looks sweet, but one problem with that I don't like. I prefer the way that the AC has its own separate belt from the factory. That way if your AC goes out, you can cut off that belt and still be able to drive the vehicle. Now I know tons of other vehicles these days run just one belt lime that. But com personal experience, I just prefer the two belts. I was running for over a month with the AC belt off while I saved up the money for a new compressor. But at least I was still able to drive it during the month.

 

[Vincesrg03]

Hey Scotty, how did you pull off the lines? Did you use a special tool? I got to do my low side line, because it has a leak. Dealer wants 500 bucks for replacing line, replacing low side switch, refilling, and about 3 hours of labor. I looked online for parts and total for parts and freon is around 130 bucks. What a rip off. Can i replace the line myself or should i take it to someone. I just need to know if i need any special tools. Thanks in advance. Sorry i hijacked.

 

[ScottyBoy]

Hey Scotty, how did you pull off the lines? Did you use a special tool? I got to do my low side line, because it has a leak. Dealer wants 500 bucks for replacing line, replacing low side switch, refilling, and about 3 hours of labor. I looked online for parts and total for parts and freon is around 130 bucks. What a rip off. Can i replace the line myself or should i take it to someone. I just need to know if i need any special tools. Thanks in advance. Sorry i hijacked.

No special tools are needed. The lines connect to the compressor with.a 13mm bolt thru a big flange on the line. Same way on the drier too. To undo the line with the orifice tube, I used two open end wrenches, one on each hex fitting. If you are gonna replace the line, I would go ahead and replace the drier and orifice tube while you are at it. That will insure your AC blows cold for many years to come. After you get everything installed, have a shop put a vacuum pump on it for at least 30 mins before refilling it with 134a.

Oh, and be sure to lube all the O rings and orifice tube with a dab of PAG oil when you
put the lines on. And pour about 2oz of PAG oil into the new drier before installing it too.

 

[Vincesrg03]

Thanks Scotty. Gonna try it in a couple weeks, see how it goes. Seems simple enough.

 

[ScottyBoy]

Yeah, I am SO glad I did it myself. I saved well over 650 bucks by learning how to do it myself. Its very intimidating at first, but its not that hard actually. If you can replace a start and a water pump, then you can do this.

 

[joefrog]

Yeah, I am SO glad I did it myself. I saved well over 650 bucks by learning how to do it myself. Its very intimidating at first, but its not that hard actually. If you can replace a start and a water pump, then you can do this.

This helped me out -- amazing what seeing someone do it can do to help the process along. Bonus that it's the same make and model!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RU7WgSsXeGk

 

[jacksmith]

I just replaced my AC Compressor with a salvage pull. Based on what I'm reading, I should have added oil to the system. Now that the compressor and drier (generic from ebay), is there an acceptable easy way to do this? I haven't discharged or charged yet. I thought about charging with some r134a that comes with oil. Would that be enough? Also, if I directly add oil, where do I I introduce it physically? Do I just pour it in the compressor where the lines connect? Thanks for any help in advance.

 

[indulf]

are you charging it yourself or taking it to a shop to do so?

if the system has no pressure then the compressor clutch won't engage, the compressor won't spin, and you won't be tearing it up without oil in it. it will need oil when it's charged, however. if you're taking it to a shop then let them know and they should take care of the oil.

 

[Roger Carpenter]

Yeah, I am SO glad I did it myself. I saved well over 650 bucks by learning how to do it myself. Its very intimidating at first, but its not that hard actually. If you can replace a start and a water pump, then you can do this.

I’m getting ready to do mine. I have an 08 Tahoe Ltz z71. Is the rock auto acdelco one for 133 bucks the right compressor. I have rear ac and controls and everything.

 

[M1Gunner]

I’m getting ready to do mine. I have an 08 Tahoe Ltz z71. Is the rock auto acdelco one for 133 bucks the right compressor. I have rear ac and controls and everything.

Just cross reference the part number through Napa or advance etc to verify it’s the right compressor. The only thing I have to add is that once you introduce air to the accumulator the desiccant bag is going to start soaking up the moisture in the air. Once it’s saturated then putting a new one in is just pointless... always lube any orings you replace and replace them everywhere you break the lines free. Let the shop know what ever you replace bc each component will determine how much oil is gonna be needed to be introduced back into the system. Hopefully the shop you take it too is competent and actually works that in. Anyhow, good luck and don’t let that desiccant bag soak up too much moisture. I.e. let the accumulator be the last component you swap out and close that system back up as quick as possible.