EGR Delete

[phatz_hatz]

Hey all, got a 95 Tahoe 4 door. 5.7 350 TBI i was wondering what would be needed for an EGR delete being my state with any vehicle over 20 years only gets a safety inspection. Figure it’s just an unnecessary emissions device that does more harm than good. Any links or advice would be appreciated.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

There's both upsides and downsides to that mod. IMO, you can better spend your money to obtain your desired outcomes with other mods.

 

[15burban]

Way back many moons ago when I had a 95 k1500 with the 350 tbi. I had some spare sheet metal laying around. Drew an outline of the egr valve. Cut it out with a grinder. Drilled the 2 holes and sandwiched it between the valve itself and the intake manifold. Or did I just leave the valve off and and just use the block off plate I made. It's been probably 20 years now so I can't remember exactly. Either way simple to do.

 

[Eman85]

Explain more harm than good. I'd say if you searched posts on here or asked owners of these vehicles the EGR is probably the last system that gave any problems or caused harm.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Explain more harm than good. I'd say if you searched posts on here or asked owners of these vehicles the EGR is probably the last system that gave any problems or caused harm.

Illegal & Emissions Failure: Disabling an emissions control device is illegal for street vehicles and will cause them to fail emissions tests. Not an issue in the OP's current state of residence.

Higher Engine Temps: Increased combustion temperatures can lead to higher overall engine and exhaust gas temperatures, potentially causing damage without proper tuning.

Check Engine Light: Will often trigger fault codes (CEL) requiring a tune.

Increased Soot in Oil: More combustion byproducts remain in the engine, potentially making oil dirtier faster.

 

[phatz_hatz]

Illegal & Emissions Failure: Disabling an emissions control device is illegal for street vehicles and will cause them to fail emissions tests. Not an issue in the OP's current state of residence.

Higher Engine Temps: Increased combustion temperatures can lead to higher overall engine and exhaust gas temperatures, potentially causing damage without proper tuning.

Check Engine Light: Will often trigger fault codes (CEL) requiring a tune.

Increased Soot in Oil: More combustion byproducts remain in the engine, potentially making oil dirtier faster.

I don’t even think mine works properly i do get a CEL only on the highway, doing highway speeds. I know there’s certain percentage points where it’ll open and close based on load. I just don’t find it needed anymore. I have heard of people developing a knock and i understand that the EGR lowers exhaust temps. I’m just afraid it may develop a knock or detenation without it. Truck has 240K on it. Thinking it’s the original engine, definitely has a rebuilt transmission or Swapped one from a junkyard before my ownership. I do oil changes regularly about every 3k miles, burns about half a quart between intervals. Have an oil catch can because the PCV hoses i kept getting were breaking and causing vacuum leaks. Only concern is a knock development with deleting it.

 

[Eman85]

I'd put a carburetor on it, and then it would never have made 200k but you wouldn't have that damaging worrisome EGR valve.

 

[Marky Dissod]

Hey all, got a 95 Tahoe 4 door. 5.7L 350 TBI. was wondering what would be needed for an EGR delete?
being my state with any vehicle over 20 years only gets a safety inspection. Figure it’s just an unnecessary emissions device that does more harm than good.
Any links or advice would be appreciated.

Way back many moons ago when I had a 95 k1500 with the 350 tbi. I had some spare sheet metal laying around. Drew an outline of the egr valve. Cut it out with a grinder. Drilled the 2 holes and sandwiched it between the valve itself and the intake manifold. Or did I just leave the valve off and and just use the block off plate I made. It's been probably 20 years now so I can't remember exactly. Either way simple to do.

This is GOLD, an EGR Valve BlockOff Plate, properly constructed, can be hidden by the reinstalled but now vestigial EGR Valve, so no one's the wiser.
Disabling the EGR Valve function without blocking it off prevents much of the exhaust gases from the intake ... unless the EGR Valve is bad ...
However, we're not quite done yet ...

Only concern is a knock development with deleting it.

Long story short: re-tune the pcm to disable the EGR Valve function, before ... functionally disabling / blocking off the EGR Valve.
Longer:
Yes the EGR Valve lowers exhaust temps a bit, but it's lowering already low exhaust temps during cruising or BARELY accelerating at low throttle / light load
(on flat or downhill road), so it's already kinda low to begin with anyway, this is not a detail to be concerned for.

The concern is that, if the EGR Valve is bad OR physically disabled / deleted, without tuning the pcm for that,
the pcm will TRY to add some spark advance (EGR function is vaguely related to a mild form of lean burn).
When the EGR is NOT doing what the pcm expects, it is forced to retard the EGR spark advance, but it never truly learns this,
it keeps making this mistake and (VERY QUICKLY) correcting it over & over again, which may (or may not) cause a bit of knock before the retard.

Tuning the pcm teaches it to avoid using the EGR Advance table; disables it. (A thorough proper tune does SO MUCH MORE ...)
Blockoff plate is optional but highly recommended if you can successfully hide it under the EGR Valve.

A reputable tuner that can PERSONALLY tune your vehicle in person iss worth every extra penny, especially if y'all drive around and refine that tune to your taste.
There are of course other reputable tuners; I recommend pcmperformance myself, over 20 years of solid rep, if you can't meet your tuner in person.

 

[B2sdad]

EGR Block off plates are available online. However as previously stated, get it tuned out before you block it off.
EGR Blockoff Plate