Don’t forget to flush your brake system - 3yrs or 45k

[SuperOldSchool]

Hello all

I’m **** about routine maintenance with all my cars. Just flushed the brake fluid from all 4 calipers this morning.

The pedal feels more firm and I was surprised. Normally I can’t tell, so there’s proof it was a good time to do it.

51k on my 2015 Yukon. Manual states to do this service at 45k or 3 years, whichever comes first.

Brake fluid is typically clear, unless you’re using specialty stuff like ATE Blue.... here is what came out, glad I did it.

 

[SuperOldSchool]

...forgot to mention, don’t forget to grease the 2 zerk fittings to the left of the hub - fronts only.

I believe these are the only 2 serviceable lube points on the suspension...

 

[Nickfire20]

...forgot to mention, don’t forget to grease the 2 zerk fittings to the left of the hub - fronts only.

I believe these are the only 2 serviceable lube points on the suspension...

Sounds good, looks nasty

Thank you!

 

[olyelr]

How do you go about flushing the brakes, anyway?

 

[cardude2000]

Hello all

I’m **** about routine maintenance with all my cars. Just flushed the brake fluid from all 4 calipers this morning.

The pedal feels more firm and I was surprised. Normally I can’t tell, so there’s proof it was a good time to do it.

51k on my 2015 Yukon. Manual states to do this service at 45k or 3 years, whichever comes first.

Brake fluid is typically clear, unless you’re using specialty stuff like ATE Blue.... here is what came out, glad I did it.

View attachment 194502 View attachment 194503

Dumb question. What does it get dirty? It’s a closed system isn’t it?

 

[SuperOldSchool]

The fluid breaks down from heat. Brakes get Hot!

Plus, I think air does deep from the reservior cap- minute amount over time.

 

[SuperOldSchool]

How do you go about flushing the brakes, anyway?

There are tons of descriptions online. Basically suck old fluid out of reservoir.
Refill with new.
Bleed brakes starting with caliper farthest from reservoir- bleed until fluid runs clean.

Several ways to bleed - helper pumping pedal,vacuum bleeder, pressure bleeder.

Search - how to flush brake system or bleeding brakes procedure...

 

[PG01]

Just dont run the master dry....make sure its always full with fresh fluid.

 

[ezstriper]

brake fluid absorbs moisture, that is its big killer, the more moisture the less pressure the system has...

 

[kentman]

I do the fluid every two years. I have new speed bleeders that I am going to install next month and do the fluid. I am hoping that the Yukon XL brake lines are better than the Pontiac lines were. I had two Pontiacs previously, and both had major rust-through issues in the lines about ten years out on each.

 

[bottomline2000]

How do you go about flushing the brakes, anyway?

I used a motive brake bleeder. It was easier to top off the reservoir with clean fluid and then pressurize the motive bleeder. I made a catch bottle from an old Gatorade bottle and clear 3/16 fuel tubing. Start at the caliper furtherest from the master cylinder. Connect the catch bottle to the bleeder valve on the caliper and open it and wait for the fluid to become clear then close it. I cycled thru mine a couple of times to be sure it was clean.

Like it's been said be sure to not let the master cylinder run dry or you will force air in the system. The cool thing about the motive bleeder is you can add fluid to the bottle so you don't have to worry as much about running the MC dry. The bad is you have to clean it afterwards.

I have an 00 Tahoe but I have 2012 Escalade brakes on the front so no difference in bleeding.

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[UFBeef]

Tried to do mine today, apparently I need a really thin wrench to get to those bleeder valves with a drain hose on them, pia.

 

[bottomline2000]

Tried to do mine today, apparently I need a really thin wrench to get to those bleeder valves with a drain hose on them, pia.

I used an old open/closed end craftsman wrench to do mine. Maybe your line is thicker.

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[SuperOldSchool]

I used an old open/closed end craftsman wrench to do mine. Maybe your line is thicker.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk

.

I used an old open/closed end craftsman wrench to do mine. Maybe your line is thicker.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk

Be careful with open end wrenches and bleeder valves. Can round them off easily.

I cracked it with the box end, put Mity Vac or tubing on bleeder, then open rest of way with open end . It’s easy to round bleeders, so I would recommend use/ start with box end.

 

[bottomline2000]

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Be careful with open end wrenches and bleeder valves. Can round them off easily.

I cracked it with the box end, put Mity Vac or tubing on bleeder, then open rest of way with open end . It’s easy to round bleeders, so I would recommend use/ start with box end.

I used the closed end. I just slid it up the tube and moved on to the next caliper and slid the wrench down on the next bleeder.

I also found it easier to pressure bleed vs vacuum bleed the system. I still have my vacuum bleeder brand new from Harbour Freight. Seemed overly complicated and higher risk of getting air in the system.

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[Silent D]

.Be careful with open end wrenches and bleeder valves. Can round them off easily.

I recently replaced pads all the way around and had to replace all bleeders as well. They were rusty, stuck and all rounded. Luckily I was able to get them out with some big vice grips. I got some speed bleeders and they suck so I ended up getting some stock ones and put them back in. I had the wife assisting me, so frustration level was high lol, and the master ran dry. Now I can't get them bled right, I assume there is air stuck in the ABS Module. So I'm just going to have the dealer do a brake fluid flush.

 

[SuperOldSchool]

I recently replaced pads all the way around and had to replace all bleeders as well. They were rusty, stuck and all rounded. Luckily I was able to get them out with some big vice grips. I got some speed bleeders and they suck so I ended up getting some stock ones and put them back in. I had the wife assisting me, so frustration level was high lol, and the master ran dry. Now I can't get them bled right, I assume there is air stuck in the ABS Module. So I'm just going to have the dealer do a brake fluid flush.

That sucks , sorry to hear they rounded off and were frozen. Next time spray some PB Blaster or other penetrant on them the week before you plan to do it and that will help dissolve any corrosion locking them up.

I noticed they were really tight - was first time they were cracked open. I didn’t torque them down as hard when I was done.

What pads and rotors did you end up getting? I see folks buying all kinds of slotted and drilled kits, but I have been pretty happy with the stock Parts so far.
I’ll need to do all four probably this summer - got 53k on them so far, not bad for a 3 ton vehicle in my opinion...

 

[Silent D]

That sucks , sorry to hear they rounded off and were frozen. Next time spray some PB Blaster or other penetrant on them the week before you plan to do it and that will help dissolve any corrosion locking them up.

I noticed they were really tight - was first time they were cracked open. I didn’t torque them down as hard when I was done.

What pads and rotors did you end up getting? I see folks buying all kinds of slotted and drilled kits, but I have been pretty happy with the stock Parts so far.
I’ll need to do all four probably this summer - got 53k on them so far, not bad for a 3 ton vehicle in my opinion...

Oh I didn't drive it and soaked them in PB Blaster for 2 days before I started.

I ended up going with the Duralast Max pads and resurfacing the rotors. I really like the durmast Max pads; they are quiet, haven't noticed any dust, really smooth and stop a lot better than the stock Delco's. They are pricey ($76/rears, $55/fronts) but since I tow a boat pretty regularly I figured it would be worth the upgrade.

 

[SuperOldSchool]

OP here with update.

It’s almost exactly 1 year since the first full system flush. Now at 70k and I put new rear rotors and pads on, flushed again on rear calipers:

Fluid gets dirty quickly.

I put front pads and rotors on at about 60k, and flushed front calipers at that time.


I think I’ll do annual flushes going forward.

Take it for what it’s worth. I like clean fluids in my vehicles.

Have a great day!
SoS

 

[new2yukon]

I recently replaced pads all the way around and had to replace all bleeders as well. They were rusty, stuck and all rounded. Luckily I was able to get them out with some big vice grips. I got some speed bleeders and they suck so I ended up getting some stock ones and put them back in. I had the wife assisting me, so frustration level was high lol, and the master ran dry. Now I can't get them bled right, I assume there is air stuck in the ABS Module. So I'm just going to have the dealer do a brake fluid flush.

Why did the speed bleeders suck? Was thinking of getting 1 or 4 and do a temp install for bleeding or a permanent install of them.

Curious of your experience.