BREAKING: GM is officially recalling the L87

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WalleyeMikeIII

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Not sure where you guys keep getting 3%. That is only what GM fessed up to for loss of propulsion to the NHTSA. The real number is likely over 6% because there have been approx 30k failures and this does not include out of warranty, non dealers replacements, out of US and failed replacement engines .

Also realize this forum only has 100k members and the majority of the member own older models.

Also understand that towing or traveling loaded is different than around town light duty usage.
3% comes from the Manufacturer’s recall info they reported to the NHTSA. Guessing they chose not to fib to a government agency with fining power, of which government is also a huge customer.

Here’s a journalistic analysis of the numbers:
 
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WalleyeMikeIII

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The worst-case scenario is you are out in BFE in Canada with your boat behind you and its hours and hours before anyone (If anyone...) can come help you and when they do..... they make you leave your boat, and you don't know how you'll get back to it. And then a Canadian dealer says you'll need to get it back to the states to get it fixed. All the while the cash register is spinning.....
This is when I would smash the OnStar button…they are contractually obligated to come tow me to the nearest dealer. Fortunately I really don’t get more than about 50 miles from “civilization” so won’t be BFE, but maybe BF Canada . Should be able to get a flat bed tow there, they are used to dudes w/ boats. But it would suck…
 

Polo08816

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The total fail rate is 3%.

But to have 1% of all of them fail in the next 7 days or 1400 miles is unlikely…

Not sure where you guys keep getting 3%. That is only what GM fessed up to for loss of propulsion to the NHTSA. The real number is likely over 6% because there have been approx 30k failures and this does not include out of warranty, non dealers replacements, out of US and failed replacement engines .

Also realize this forum only has 100k members and the majority of the member own older models.

Also understand that towing or traveling loaded is different than around town light duty usage.

3% comes from the Manufacturer’s recall info they reported to the NHTSA. Guessing they chose not to fin to a government agency with fining power, of which government is also a huge customer.

Here’s a journalistic analysis of the numbers:

... the bolded part is my point. I think the failure rate of the 6.2L for all issues (to include issues outside of the bottom end problems such as lifter failures, etc.) is much higher than 3%. Whatever that true number is... that's already a pretty high failure rate for any engine.
 

WalleyeMikeIII

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... the bolded part is my point. I think the failure rate of the 6.2L for all issues (to include issues outside of the bottom end problems such as lifter failures, etc.) is much higher than 3%. Whatever that true number is... that's already a pretty high failure rate for any engine.
Exactly, I thought this thread is talking about, specifically, the recall for out of spec cranks and sediment…not “other” fails. So, yes, I agree.
 

PPK_

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I do not see on sales... that the 6.2 holds up as well as the 5.3.. this is 2021 to 2025 years...
 

23Seven

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This has been claimed by members here — yet other members have claimed that it indeed does fully disable 0 cyl mode under all circumstances, but apparently nobody knows for sure (ie: can provide definitive evidence for us to decipher). but it certainly would appear that DFM may still be active during DFCO

I know DFM and AFM are completely different in practice, but in another thread long ago i did note that the Range unit for AFM illuminates brightly when under throttle - but fades to a dim light when coasting or when brakes are applied. . .

Does that mean anything? I dunno. Maybe, maybe not. Just speculation, but obviously has been programmed by the mfg to behave that way, it’s not just to look cool. The light is there to let you know the unit is working as designed, so when the light fades to barely noticeable during coasting or idle, i interpret as “AFM disable NOT active . . . during coasting or idle”.

have to imagine the DFM disabler works in a similar method.
L9 works 100% of the time. Range goes 0 cylinders when you coast until about 8 mph.

I have a Flowmaster on mine and trust me you know when it’s in DFM and in all 8 mode. The exhaust does not lie.

Not sure about the other devices but I heard carbyt doesn’t work until you hit 30mph when you first take off but then stays on until you turn off the engine.
 

BacDoc

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My understanding is that 0-cylinder mode may still be possible during certain 0% throttle events ... ?
The only thing I can say about this is before Carbyte if I was cresting a hill or bridge, going downhill the fuel efficiency screen would go to 99mpg.
With Carbyte in the same downhill section it reads 46-50mpg.

When towing in tow mode ( usually 45/50 mph) my mpg is slightly less with Carbyte. At these speeds under tow I am getting 9.5–10 mpg vs 10-10.5 mpg. This is just from observation over a month after installing Carbyte.
 

BacDoc

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Also with carbyte - the ASS does not come on even under 40mph. My commute to work is a 7 mile route with 3 lights and during our tourist season the 35 mph speed limit is usually never exceeded and there is no passing lanes on this road. Before Carbyte the ASS would turn off at every stop, in traffic or at light. I have never had the ASS come on since Carbyte, even though I never reached 40mph.
 

viven44

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Ran across this really good video that explains the importance of surface roughness. The example used is in the ballpark of ~0.2 thou clearance so an order of magnitude exaggerated but the principles do carry over. Watch 4:00 to 6:00 min in the video below.

Contamination is definitely big deal when surface roughness goes up, this has been mentioned before but the oil filter doesn't capture all of that contamination, so I think these engines fail because the baseline contamination suspended in the oil at all times is too much and depending on maintenance/use case, there is variability in contamination level among the population and at what mileage they fail.

Factors that can increase suspension level in the oil
- Less frequent oil changes
- Operation in dusty environment (yes air filter captures most but not all) - increased silicon content in oil (silicon from sand/dust)

Video also clearly states that with higher surface roughness, a higher viscosity adds margin before contaminants become an issue.

PS: would be curious to know failure rate by region. Be nice to know if there is a correlation to the local climate (Arid vs Humid).

 
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BacDoc

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Real World information is:

your truck is on the recall list if the engine build date is in the range that many have posted previously.

Also you can check the GM app and run your VIN to confirm.

The official statement is under recall but remedy not available.

Engines will be inspected - if fail then new engine. If passed you get 0-40W, filter change and replacement cap that says 0-40w and limited warranty for bottom end.

GM says notifications will be sent out by mail this month (June)

Until then nobody knows anything about anything
 

TXNJ

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They have confirmed my vehicle will get the N*000 inspection and either a new engine or 0-40 oil recommendation. I asked if, given I have 1000+ mile towing trip on Thursday, if we can/should change the oil to 0-40. They spoke to shop foreman, he said if we do that, it could interfere/mask symptoms on the test. Seemed reasonable, so I requested we go ahead and do the inspection. Their hands are tied by GM, if they do it now, before my vehicle gets to “open status” (currently in “incomplete, remedy not available”), they don’t get paid.

My service advisor understands and empathizes with my dilemma. He is going to reach out to the district GM rep on Monday to see if they can open my VIN up to get this done before I leave (of course, if it fails, I’m begging for a loaner tow vehicle…). But, the advice from the Certified Master Tech is don’t change oil prior to inspection…
I'm in a similar boat. '23 AT4. 100% on the recall list. But when I've called two large dealers in Dallas they have both said they have no remedy from GM yet and expect something in June. I asked about changing the oil because i'm down to 20% life and am driving 700+ miles to Gulf Shores in a week. I asked if I should get the 0-40 since that's what the recall said would happen if it was a 'no replace' engine and they said no, they would just put the same 0-20, which clearly I'm going to be paying for. It's been confusing because the dealer made it sound like there is nothing else they can do at this point without more direction from GM, but then she also said to bring it in later this week because they had a "slot" open for what sounded like an inspection of the engine? But I was clearly talking to the scheduler and not a tech, so who knows. I'll bring it in Friday (hopefully) and just go from there. Getting a straight answer has proven to be more difficult than expected. Yes, your vehicle is recalled for this reason. Yes, these are the expected tests/remedies as published and told to you. No, we can't do those things because GM hasn't told us what to do yet.
 
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vcode

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Real World information is:

your truck is on the recall list if the engine build date is in the range that many have posted previously.

Also you can check the GM app and run your VIN to confirm.

The official statement is under recall but remedy not available.

Engines will be inspected - if fail then new engine. If passed you get 0-40W, filter change and replacement cap that says 0-40w and limited warranty for bottom end.

GM says notifications will be sent out by mail this month (June)

Until then nobody knows anything about anything
Yet it was reported here that dealers are performing the recall to used vehicles in stock so they can sell them. I did see a used 6.2L that said the recall had been performed. Hmmmmm......
 

23Seven

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Am I the only that has a 2024 that is apparently outside the recall window but had my dealer recommend using 0W-40 anyway? I quote “It’s better protection and it’s better to be safe than sorry” I got his name. This service advisor gave me the advice after asking his boss.

The posts I’m reading here seem to be opposite of this for non recalled motors. I either have someone that’s honest and giving me good advice or crazy telling me to put “Corvette” oil in my Tahoe.

This is what I meant by real world info! It would be nice to be able to post here without all the rudeness and sarcasm! I just want to compare what people are running into with their dealers compared to what my dealer says.
 

jfoj

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This is where you need to take matters into your own hands. You CANNOT rely on the dealer network, they have to tow the standard GM line. I get it, they are a franchised dealer and they have rules. But the faster you can get away from a dealer the better off you will likely be.

The vehicles in inventory, Demos, used, trade ins, CPO's all are on the priority list. The reason is the dealers cannot sell any vehicles with a open recall. They probably could sell used/trade ins with an open recall, BUT there will be no protection from GM if something bad happens. So most dealers follow the federal guidelines that no new vehicle can be sold with an open recall. Additionally dealers get financial support for vehicles they cannot sell from GM, so they are not loosing their backsides sitting on inventory they cannot sell. I assume they may be able to apply for the financial assistance for used/trade in/auction purchases??

GM has not flipped the switch for customer vehicles to be "inspected" yet, I believe it may be soon, it may have already happened as of June 1 and maybe the message has not made it into the service department staff??? But as I recall GM indicated the recalls would be "STAGED" and starting sometime in June. I assume they may start with the 2021 models, but who knows. GM has poorly handled a lot of their recalls lately and they are carefully dancing around committing to do the right thing for the customers IMHO. Between the engine and transmission problems and the numbers that GM has to deal with they are screwed both financially and from a time standpoint. It will take a LONG time to get all of these vehicles inspected and I do not even think GM has the amount of 0W40 oil on hand to address the volume of vehicles they will need to "inspect".

Me, I move on and take care of my self. I would never run the OLM beyond 50% in current vehicles, just too much risk. You also cannot turn the clock back if you ran the OLM to 100% for 100,000 miles and then decided you want to keep the vehicle longer. You would have only changed the oil 10 more times typically in the 100,000 miles. Assuming you are paying top dollar, maybe $2500 more in maintenance, if you cannot afford that, then I do not know what to say. I change my own oil and it costs me around $70. There are people that spend more than this at Starbucks a month, the good part is I don't drink coffee, I maintain my vehicles.

I would be putting 0W40 in the engine at my cost until it was time for inspection. If I had concerns, I would put 0W20 back in the engine. If I had real concerns, I would drain the current 0W20 into clean pan and save it and the current oil filter to put the oil back in along with the oil filter for the "Inspection".

Many ways to skin the cat, you can sit there and worry or wonder what may happen or take the bull by the horns. Anytime I plan on travel or towing, I typically change the oil BEFORE I take a trip if there is any question about what the oil life will be by the time I return. I would rather start the trip with fresh oil, than to push the envelope. But this is me, everyone does things their way.
 
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2024 White Tahoe

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Am I the only that has a 2024 that is apparently outside the recall window but had my dealer recommend using 0W-40 anyway? I quote “It’s better protection and it’s better to be safe than sorry” I got his name. This service advisor gave me the advice after asking his boss.

The posts I’m reading here seem to be opposite of this for non recalled motors. I either have someone that’s honest and giving me good advice or crazy telling me to put “Corvette” oil in my Tahoe.

This is what I meant by real world info! It would be nice to be able to post here without all the rudeness and sarcasm! I just want to compare what people are running into with their dealers compared to what my dealer says.

A little off topic - but related to GM V-8 engine + oil usage.

I ordered and bought a new 1999 Corvette Coupe in the fall. The dealership provided the first oil change for no charge.

I took the vehicle to the service department just as cold weather was arriving for the oil change (I planned to store the car over the winter before bad weather arrived). The oil fill cap stated to use 5-W-30 oil and so did the owner’s manual (synthetic only).

When the vehicle service was completed I got the invoice. It showed the dealership used 10-W-30 oil.

I talked to the service advisor and he said the dealership “never used 5-W-30 as it was too thin”. He said they only used 10-W-30 oil as it was thicker. I talked with him about GM’s requirement and he said they knew better.

I took the Corvette home, changed the oil myself and used Dexos approved 5-W-30 oil. I never took the Corvette to that dealership for service again.
 

OR VietVet

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A little off topic - but related to GM V-8 engine + oil usage.

I ordered and bought a new 1999 Corvette Coupe in the fall. The dealership provided the first oil change for no charge.

I took the vehicle to the service department just as cold weather was arriving for the oil change (I planned to store the car over the winter before bad weather arrived). The oil fill cap stated to use 5-W-30 oil and so did the owner’s manual (synthetic only).

When the vehicle service was completed I got the invoice. It showed the dealership used 10-W-30 oil.

I talked to the service advisor and he said the dealership “never used 5-W-30 as it was too thin”. He said they only used 10-W-30 oil as it was thicker. I talked with him about GM’s requirement and he said they knew better.

I took the Corvette home, changed the oil myself and used Dexos approved 5-W-30 oil. I never took the Corvette to that dealership for service again.
Even if what they say is believed by them to be true, they should have talked to you first for your approval.
 

jfoj

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@23Seven

I dumped the factory fill at 544 miles and 0W20 has not ever been on my property or near my vehicle. Never looking back.

My 2024 6.2l is "CURRENTLY" outside the recall window, BUT GM may move the goal posts again.

Interesting how with the L87 GM added the DFM AND they quit using the Teflon or coated rod bearings. Apparently the L86 had coated main and rod bearings, but for some reason GM decided to drop the coated bearings for just the connecting rods in the L87, the main bearings that I have seen have still been coated. Maybe they changed this along the way as well??

Looking at the GM parts catalog it looks like the L86 and L87 now have the same non coated rod bearings, so GM may have discontinued using these on the connecting rods for some reason.

Kind of stupid IMHO, the bearing coating adds an extra layer of protection mainly for the Auto Stop/Start and "dry" bearing starts. This is also where the higher viscosity oil helps keep the bearings "wet" during Stop/Start conditions. Coated bearings also help when the oil film breaks down or gets too thin to keep metal on metal contact limited or eliminated depending on the situation. But I think my truck maybe had less than 6 Auto Stop/Start events before I took delivery. I will go back look, I think the ECU keeps this data as I recall seeing something regarding the Auto Stop/Start counts.

Anyway, for the 0W20 lovers and the folks that push the OLM to 0%, I wish you a long and healthy engine life. I know how I am going to treat and maintain my 6.2l and I have no worries.
 

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