Hey everyone, pretty sure my lower BJs are going to need to be replace, inspecting this weekend, tires show excessive wear indication suspension components, when i bought the burb the front shocks were beyond shot, so replaced those with arnotts that keep the magnetic suspension system working. I don't mind paying more for a better ride wuality. Anyhow, i know of the heavy duty trucks, kryptonite BJS are widely recommended but they don't make any for the aluminum lower control arms. Curious what others have found, in terms of high quality aftermarket. If push comes to shove i can always just get moog BJs, but curious what other's have found to be a high quality replacement. Plan is to go through the suspension and steering linkage and just make sure everything is peachy before getting an alignment and new rubber on the rims i recently picked up.
Ball joints recommendations?
- Thread starter Loki223
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CMoore711
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Are you looking to just get lower replacement ball joints or lower control arms with ball joints in them already?
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Loki223
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Really only need the lower BJs, don't see much of a need to replace the entire assembly unless i have to or the bushings are worn out on it
I see doorman makes a heavy duty variant for a decent price $31 and change from rock auto, i like the idea of a HD variant due to the gravel roads and constantly bad roads out by me
Given, the burb is a spare vehicle on one hand, not a DD. So it doesn't really rack up miles. Even though it already has 160k on the clock. I like to make sure things are fixed right and fixed for the long run, even though i realize i probably won't put another 20k miles on the burb while i own it. It's good t have things done right.
I see doorman makes a heavy duty variant for a decent price $31 and change from rock auto, i like the idea of a HD variant due to the gravel roads and constantly bad roads out by me
Given, the burb is a spare vehicle on one hand, not a DD. So it doesn't really rack up miles. Even though it already has 160k on the clock. I like to make sure things are fixed right and fixed for the long run, even though i realize i probably won't put another 20k miles on the burb while i own it. It's good t have things done right.
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Loki223
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Like i said though, inspection happens this weekend when i run down to my buddies place to look at it in his shop rather then my garage. So i'll likely have a (hopefully) little list. Steering feels solid, but with 160k miles, i wouldn't be surprised if the end links and steering needs to be touched up with fresh parts. But i'll know more soon. Nothing feels bad while driving, basing the "need" off tire wear and verifying before buying parts i may or may not need
swathdiver
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It actually makes more sense to replace the entire control arm with the ball joint already installed, and the additional cost for the control arm is not much. Use GM parts, and you can purchase them at rockauto.com or GMPartsDirect.com at a price much lower than the dealer..
CMoore711
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I’m a big fan of staying OEM if I can; They’ve serve well for 160K right?
I’ve also had pretty good experience with Mevotech TTX series control arms which are also a more “heavy duty” rated arm and BJ.
I’ve also had pretty good experience with Mevotech TTX series control arms which are also a more “heavy duty” rated arm and BJ.
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Loki223
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I wouldn't say the additional cost isn't much, $30/40 ish to $200. However, talking with my buddy he raised a good point with the aluminum control arms, dissimular metals tend to sieze together over time. Steel BJ and aluminum arm tend to make them seize together and you destroy the control arm when you attempt to replace them. I'll be doing full control arms i guess, that way there are new bushings and everything. Didn't get a chance to inspect everything this weekend, so this coming weekend we will go through the suspension and steering and find anything that needs replaced prior to a fresh alignment.
Looks like GM genuine require replacing the stabilizer bar end links, since they now longer sell the aluminum control arms, but Mevotech TTX control arms are higher rated the GM genuine, and marginally more expensive then the GM ones, so i might go that route i think. Curious that GM discontinued the aluminum control arms, looks like all the GM control arms are steel replacements now
Looks like GM genuine require replacing the stabilizer bar end links, since they now longer sell the aluminum control arms, but Mevotech TTX control arms are higher rated the GM genuine, and marginally more expensive then the GM ones, so i might go that route i think. Curious that GM discontinued the aluminum control arms, looks like all the GM control arms are steel replacements now
CrashTestDummy
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This!! Just say 'No!' to aftermarket control arms since OEM are still available. But that's just my opinion. I always go OEM when. I can. Never had an issue. Aftermarket, these days seems hit-or-miss.
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Loki223
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Well, after inspecting the BJs, a decision has been made. Sticking with OEM BJs, since the OEM BJs are still in good shape, no signs of damage or wear, everything is tight. So no need to spend money on replacements. Like the old saying goes, if it's aint broke don't fix it
