Well its that time again here in Arizona. The temps are getting over 100 degrees and soon to be over 120!!!! I have a 99 2dr 4wd and am thinking about swapping out the entire A/C system. My A/C works but wouldn’t say it works great especially after 100 degrees. Any others out there that have done anything to make or keep it colder in our trucks?
AZ heat vs old worn A/C
- Thread starter AZ Tahoe
- Start date
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MarkD51
Full Access Member
Interesting topic folks, and since I live also in the southwest desert, I'm wondering how hard it would be to install an aftermarket Condenser Fan.
My 1997 Tahoe of course did not come with such, but looking on the web, I see a Dorman Part for our vehicles, claims it fits "behind" the radiator, and next to the radiator fan. Bracketry is included, as well as a plug.
It is claimed to be a replacement for a "Factory Part", so I imagine some Trucks must've came with these from the factory stock?
Now whether my Tahoe already has such a harness from the factory, and this would be a simple plug and play affair, I have no idea?
At around $55-$60 it's not that expensive if it would improve A/C in-around town.
Can anyone here tell us more?
Thanks, Mark
---------- Post added at 05:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:26 AM ----------
When I had my A/C serviced last year, with new Compressor, Drier-Accumilator, Orifice Tube, system flushed, evac'ed and filled, I did note that there were supposedly two types of Orifice Tubes available, one was for high heat conditions with temps over 105 degrees if I remember.
So, I bought both Orifice Tubes.
The thing was, this High Heat O-Tube was much longer in size, bore little resemblance to the stock Orifice (Yellow) Tube that came out, and both myself, and the Tech assumed we'd get ourselves into a world of shit, jamming this longer O-Tube into the Line. That if it didn't fit, and then somehow got stuck in the line, it then might mean a new condenser as well. Really didn't want to chance it.
Thus, I wound up just using-installing a new exact same Yellow O-Tube. (from Chevy)
Mark
My 1997 Tahoe of course did not come with such, but looking on the web, I see a Dorman Part for our vehicles, claims it fits "behind" the radiator, and next to the radiator fan. Bracketry is included, as well as a plug.
It is claimed to be a replacement for a "Factory Part", so I imagine some Trucks must've came with these from the factory stock?
Now whether my Tahoe already has such a harness from the factory, and this would be a simple plug and play affair, I have no idea?
At around $55-$60 it's not that expensive if it would improve A/C in-around town.
Can anyone here tell us more?
Thanks, Mark
---------- Post added at 05:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:26 AM ----------
When I had my A/C serviced last year, with new Compressor, Drier-Accumilator, Orifice Tube, system flushed, evac'ed and filled, I did note that there were supposedly two types of Orifice Tubes available, one was for high heat conditions with temps over 105 degrees if I remember.
So, I bought both Orifice Tubes.
The thing was, this High Heat O-Tube was much longer in size, bore little resemblance to the stock Orifice (Yellow) Tube that came out, and both myself, and the Tech assumed we'd get ourselves into a world of shit, jamming this longer O-Tube into the Line. That if it didn't fit, and then somehow got stuck in the line, it then might mean a new condenser as well. Really didn't want to chance it.
Thus, I wound up just using-installing a new exact same Yellow O-Tube. (from Chevy)
Mark
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
fan is not what you think it is. was for the pickups mainly or heavy burbs and i was going to mention the other orifice as well. in tucson right now and it take a bit more effort to get the cab cold when it is over 100° outside. no time or money to change mine yet.
MarkD51
Full Access Member
SunlitComet,
Wouldn't the Silverados (and perhaps Suburbans) of the same time era and same engine basically had the exact same under hood layout?
At least in regards to Fan Shrouds, and Radiator-Condenser Layout?
What seemed strange, and wondering how much benefit would actually be offered, when I read mention that the Condenser Fan mounts "behind" the Radiator?
I would think if it could be done, and I'm sure some inventive mechanically inclined person could probably mount something like a dual electric fan in front of the Condenser, if there was enough physical room?
One other possible upgrade path, and may offer some additional benefit, is dumping the Clutch Fan, and retro-fitting something like a Flex-a-Lite Fan, with no Clutch?
I know when there's a suspected lack of AC cooling, one thing a mechanic will usually check is the Fan Clutch. As I understand it, a simple check is to shut the engine off, and if the Radiator Fan continues to spin for any length of time, the Fan Clutch is bad.
As for the Orifice Tube swap, this other high heat environment O-Tube looked much longer in length than the stock Tube. Do you know, or are sure that this other Tube would've fit?
In my estimation, and two other mechanics, we all seemed to believe no, that it would not.
Mark
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MarkD51
Full Access Member
Hi, yes, I found your thread, and article, and this was where I would've envisioned such a Fan should be placed.
I would assume that no matter what the temps outside, whether 80's, 90's. 100's, or 110's, that when you're needing A/C, such a Fan can only be a benefit to the A/C System.
Have you noticed an improvement in cooling since the installation?
There might be a somewhat similar improvement in Condenser Cooling, as well as Radiator cooling too with something like a high performance Fan (like the Flexalite) and omitting the Clutch, thus using a Spacer in place of the Clutch? How much could such a fan hurt either performance or gas mileage?
Many years past I had installed Flexalite Fans on three vehicles, '84 and '86 Pontiac TA's, (which had no grills to speak of to give good air flow, especially at lower speeds) and also had one on my 1968 SS396 Camaro.
The variable pitch feaure on the Flexalite Fan meant a bigger bite of air at lower rpms drawing more air through the radiator, and could this possibly prove benefical for the Condenser too?
Mark
I would imagine the added fan wouldn’t hurt and you would see some sign of improvement. The questions really is how much. A few things I am think of doing is first replace the whole system. Then remove the interior and somehow insulate the cab. And lastly I want to paint the roof white but want to research to see if I can find a paint that is made to specifically resist heat transfer. I have also heard of a window tint that has porcelain in it and it greatly reduces the heat that can enter the cab.
MarkD51
Full Access Member
I think what tint you are referring to is called a Ceramic Tint? I've heard of it.
Would imagine any tint would help. I've seen some down here even tint windshields, not sure whether for heat reduction, or for privacy? Perhaps both? Not sure I myself would ever tint a windshield though, as it surely has to compromise night driving.
My entire Tahoe is white, and of course white will be the coolest color to have, but even so, in this desert heat here, and even with AC on Max, it always seems there's just not enough fan velocity at times, at least when cruising around town.
Probably one huge detriment is the amount of cubic feet space inside a Tahoe/Yukon, or Suburban. It's a lot of area to cool.
I might one day look into a Flexalite Fan and Spacer. Cost of admission would probably be about $100 give or take.
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i have the fan installed, but havent completed the wiring. i think th biggest issue is more the volume of the cab as opposed to the efficiency of the system or the color of the car. if you have no window tint, then get that done first, that will be a huge benefit. do you have rear AC? I do, my Tahoe is black, and my system keeps the car cool.
as for replacing everything in the system, that seems to be a big expense, especially if nothing is broken. I would verify the charge by having the system evacuated and the correct refrigerant amont weighed back in. also, clean off the condensor and evap coils. when i was mounting the fan i used a brush to clean the condenser, it was pretty dirty.
there is paint that will radiate the heat away. i know they make it for homes, not sure about cars though.
i was mainly installing the condensor fan for around town, stop and go driving. my system blows very cold when moving.
as for replacing everything in the system, that seems to be a big expense, especially if nothing is broken. I would verify the charge by having the system evacuated and the correct refrigerant amont weighed back in. also, clean off the condensor and evap coils. when i was mounting the fan i used a brush to clean the condenser, it was pretty dirty.
there is paint that will radiate the heat away. i know they make it for homes, not sure about cars though.
i was mainly installing the condensor fan for around town, stop and go driving. my system blows very cold when moving.
MarkD51
Full Access Member
I agree with not replacing what isn't broke.
My '97 Tahoe, which has been in my possession since day one, had a freaking remanufacted AC Compressor. And yep, that's where the leaks started. Front and Back Seals of the Compressor itself, nowhere else.
But when you do a Compressor Swap,you have to also acquire a new Drier-Acccumilator, and Orifice Tube, otherwise you're doing butcher back alley surgery.
The Drier, about $30, and the O-Tube, about $4-$7. (Of course you'll need Oil, and Refrigerant.
I replaced all Shrader Valves at the Ports to be safe. Nobody wants to dump expensive refrigerant into a vehicle, and then find a week later it all leaked out somewhere else.
Forget the little refrigerant Cans, do a professional evac, and charge.
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I have professional grade vacuum pump, gauges and scale for weighing it back in. Its a little harder to erigh it in with the small cans.
If you just leaked out, and are just replacing seals i don't think you would need to replace all of that. Its when the compressor siezes that you get a bunch of garbage in the system and need to replace extra items.
If you just leaked out, and are just replacing seals i don't think you would need to replace all of that. Its when the compressor siezes that you get a bunch of garbage in the system and need to replace extra items.
MarkD51
Full Access Member
It was a new (not rebuilt) Delphi Compressor I had installed. AZone won't fully warrantee the Compressor unless you buy the Drier, and Orifice Tube.
Compressor was filled, and bench primed with the correct oil, and no doubt best to start with a fresh new Drier-Accumilator, otherwise it gets harder to estimate how much oil remains in the system.
No, since I didn't have a seize up of the Compressor, the original Orifice Tube was not really bad looking, or had any shavings, just a little gunky looking was all. Downside of the Orifice Tube Swap, is the Grill has to come off. No biggie, have done it before when I replaced all lamp housings-lenses, only about 15 minutes to get off.
The fella that did the job for me was pretty thorough, in replacing Shrader Valves, insuring all seals replaced, and even seals were OK on the Low Pressure Switch at the Drier, was power flushed, evac'ed and charged (with Dye)
Figuring even though the truck has under 40K, it still is a 17 year old truck.
Provided the Compressor holds up, I should be good for another many years of use. In about 96 degree heat, I'm showing about 42 degrees at the Vents on Max Cooling.
If my truck was on its way out, I probably wouldn't have cared as much, but I plan on holding onto my Tahoe for many many more years.
Beauty of New Mexico here, my truck looks like it's a year old. No rust down here in the desert.
Mark
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If you haven't already purchased everything from auto zone, there is a shop in PHX that has very good prices. I had to replace the compressor, condenser,and txv on my wife's car about two years ago. All the parts were about $400. I have the website saved in my favorites to my computer at home, I can post it when I get home.
MarkD51
Full Access Member
As for myself Orange, all was replaced about 12 months ago, and all seems to be holding up OK.
But for sure, do post any good info, as it might benefit others here down the road.
In my short time here, I've easily read through multiple hundreds, if not thousands of forum posts, present, and past.
As well as looking at all the great rides.
Gaining knowledge, and reading about other's experience helps mucho indeed.
Mark
Gzes
the drifting 2dr
Dammit yall making me want ac more... When I get some change in I'll do mine
the website is www.ackits.com....which looks like they changed to ackits.net
They are a shop local to Phoenix. They didn't have my wifes car listed on their site at the time, but when I called up they had great prices. And they have a forum with some helpful folks also.
They are a shop local to Phoenix. They didn't have my wifes car listed on their site at the time, but when I called up they had great prices. And they have a forum with some helpful folks also.
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
the trucks and big burbs actually used that fan but it was mainly there as a back up for a hot engine when under stress as well as one other need. it can be adopted to do other things but you have to provision the controls for other uses.
i use the flex a lite 280 dual fan setup made for the obs trucks and the controller it came with for now. it will be controlled by the pcm later and the old fan controller will be used to drive the at single delco $65 add-on fan when i get it done. it goes in front of the heat exchanger setup. condenser fan behind radiator does not make sense. must be a typo.
the tube should fit. a few people here have changed over to it. i need it myself here in az. 105°+ here it a bit much for me.
for the fan clutch let the engine go cold overnight and and the coldest temp outside. start and rev the engine. if the fan howls loudly then it should be working properly and after enough revving or time it should let off its clutch and slow down.
This might work well: http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/lizardskin/?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Default&autoview=SKU
Also, would cleaning the evap core real good make a difference?
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
yes they can become clogged with debris over time fallen thru the cowl grille.
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