AIR RIDE CONVERSION

[bldn10]

I have an '06 base Escalade that I lucked into 6 years ago at 74,000 miles. it has been a fantastic truck - started out mostly towing a race car w/ it but as time went on it morphed also into a work truck. I bought a GMT800 in the first place because it was the last of the full flat rear compartment SUVs. It has the auto level control but that gave out years ago. I think I replaced a shock and the pump once but then the relay on the LF fender burned up so I gave up on that "feature." I now have 137,000 miles on it and it needs shocks. I'm still towing a 3000 pound car on an open aluminum trailer and want more support than standard shocks/springs. Are the Bilstein 4600s w/ springs adequate for what I need? FWIW my truck has G69 and Z55.
I had it in the shop recently and they said it need idler and pitman arms - does that sound right? The steering wheel has a little movement but I'm wondering if it just the intermediate shaft?

 

[Big Mama]

Why not return to the factory auto leveling? It’s perfect for what you’re doing. My 07 was a DD but also pulled my boat which is about 5k lbs. once the shocks aired up it had zero sag and towed great.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

^^^^^x2^^^^^ It really is the best suspension for your truck, IMO. I have had both active and passive suspensions on my truck, and as @Big Mama states, the truck handled much better with the active Z55 suspension.

Lots of folks have deleted the active suspension and are happy, so they will chime in with their experiences and perspectives.

 

[bldn10]

Yea, the auto leveling IS perfect when it works. My previous '02 Tahoe had it too and I don't know how many times I've had to get new shocks, pumps, relays, etc. Tired of messing w/ it. I'm thinking that good conversion shocks/springs are a better tow than non-working air shocks. Right now I'd need everything - shocks, pump, hardwired relay.
Perhaps someone could explain what the Z55 is. Is it completely separate from the G69 self-leveling? Is it what you see in shock descriptions as "electronic suspension."

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Yea, the auto leveling IS perfect when it works. My previous '02 Tahoe had it too and I don't know how many times I've had to get new shocks, pumps, relays, etc. Tired of messing w/ it. I'm thinking that good conversion shocks/springs are a better tow than non-working air shocks. Right now I'd need everything - shocks, pump, hardwired relay.
Perhaps someone could explain what the Z55 is. Is it completely separate from the G69 self-leveling? Is it what you see in shock descriptions as "electronic suspension."

The Z55 suspension is a combination electric and pneumatic active suspension control system. The electric portion automatically adjusts the firmness of each shock/strut, depending upon the road conditions and the truck's movements at the moment. The time delay between the changing input and the shock's firmness change is 20 milliseconds. One of the main inputs to the active suspension system is the truck's yaw sensor, and the ride height control sensors contribute as well in real time.

The G69 is a part of this active suspension that automatically keeps the truck level from front to rear, by adding or removing air to the rear shocks, as the weight in the rear changes, either through adding cargo to the rear, adding a trailer to the truck's towing ball, or both. This is accomplished by the active system monitoring the four ride height sensors, and reacting to any differences between the front and rear ride height sensors. It is important to note that the air shocks handle part of the truck's rear weight, supplementing the springs, so if you remove the active suspension system, you need to change the rear springs, as well, to a stronger spring.

It is also important to be aware that GM has fairly recently changed the warranty on newly purchased active system shocks/struts to a lifetime warranty, so the long-term maintenance cost of this active suspension system has been substantially reduced.

Let me know if you need additional information.

 

[bldn10]

Just a follow-up: I replaced the rears w/ the Bilstein shocks and springs recommended here and it rides much better.
I do have a question about the steering arms if anyone wants to go there.

 

[Big Mama]

Great. What about the steering?

 

[bldn10]

I had my Escalade in the shop for A/C and "rough ride." When I picked it up they said it needed idler and pitman arms, shocks all around, new tires, and alignment - about $5000 worth! I only paid $8000 (a great deal) for it 6 years ago. I find it somewhat hard to believe.
My question now is what is the risk of not doing it? The steering is fine and I don't hear any knocking when turning. That said, the RF tire is pretty worn on the outside and it pulls a bit to the left. If the arms are bad will it not hold an alignment?
This is not my daily driver, and its use is going to drop significantly going forward. I do pull a track car on an open trailer from time to time.

 

[adventurenali92]

I had my Escalade in the shop for A/C and "rough ride." When I picked it up they said it needed idler and pitman arms, shocks all around, new tires, and alignment - about $5000 worth! I only paid $8000 (a great deal) for it 6 years ago. I find it somewhat hard to believe.
My question now is what is the risk of not doing it? The steering is fine and I don't hear any knocking when turning. That said, the RF tire is pretty worn on the outside and it pulls a bit to the left. If the arms are bad will it not hold an alignment?
This is not my daily driver, and its use is going to drop significantly going forward. I do pull a track car on an open trailer from time to time.

The problem with not replacing the pitman and idler arm is that the more you drive it the more the alignment will end up out of whack. Especially if you’re towing trailers…. You’ll start to eat through tires ridiculously fast once your alignment doesn’t stay within spec. These parts are pretty cheap to purchase at your local parts stores as well as online. Less then $100 per part. They’re DIY fixable at home in your driveway if you’re handy with tools. I’ve had all my front end steering and suspension parts replaced in the last few years on my 2006 XL Denali and steering performance and handling is so much better with fresh parts. So worth replacing them and not just cheaping out and leaving worn parts in.

 

[Big Mama]

Remember their estimate includes labor which is usually $100-$150 an hour for a shop, not a dealer. As @adventurenali92 mentioned these aren’t hard to replace. If you’re not sure they need replacing get another estimate. Not replacing them, if needed, will cost more in the end.