AC not cooling - likely compressor, could it just be clutch?

[DonnieBrasco]

My AC is not cooling. I got a can of refrigerant to recharge it, but then I noticed that the compressor doesn't seem to be kicking on.

My questions are...

(1) How do I confirm if the compressor is totally dead?

(2) Is it possible to replace the clutch only or is it an all or nothing type deal?

I'm just trying to find out if I just need to replace the whole compressor, or if just the clutch is bad and if it's possible to just replace that? Thanks.

 

[Doubeleive]

cheapest method unless you got a buddy with a gauge is just buy the refill with the gauge and see what the pressure reads. go from there. 99% of the time either the refrigerant leaked out or the compressor kicked the bucket which will then usually either kick the belt off or will make horrible noises like it is being ***** inside by a 50lb metal gorilla.

 

[DonnieBrasco]

cheapest method unless you got a buddy with a gauge is just buy the refill with the gauge and see what the pressure reads. go from there. 99% of the time either the refrigerant leaked out or the compressor kicked the bucket which will then usually either kick the belt off or will make horrible noises like it is being ***** inside by a 50lb metal gorilla.

So the belt is still on the compressor just fine. And it's not making any crazy noises. But if I connect the can, and it says it's empty, and then I recharge it (with likely a full can), and the compressor still won't turn on, didn't I just waste a whole can? Because I will have to flush/drain the system before replacing the compressor, correct? Thanks dude.

 

[Randy Whistler]

Yes. No. Maybe. Sorry, but there's no easy way other than do what you're doing. Keep in mind, even if the can is empty, the system may have been empty and might need more than one can to charge up. The compressor will not run until it reaches a certain PSI internally, and you might have to dump more in to satisfy it. I had a land yacht years ago that had a similar problem. The dealership wanted $800 to fix it. I went to WallyWorld, invested in a hose/gauge set and a couple of cans of Freon - worked until I traded it in.

And, yes, if you open the system for any reason, you'll have to vacuum pump it before refilling, after you've fixed whatever the issue might be.

 

[DonnieBrasco]

Yes. No. Maybe. Sorry, but there's no easy way other than do what you're doing. Keep in mind, even if the can is empty, the system may have been empty and might need more than one can to charge up. The compressor will not run until it reaches a certain PSI internally, and you might have to dump more in to satisfy it. I had a land yacht years ago that had a similar problem. The dealership wanted $800 to fix it. I went to WallyWorld, invested in a hose/gauge set and a couple of cans of Freon - worked until I traded it in.

And, yes, if you open the system for any reason, you'll have to vacuum pump it before refilling, after you've fixed whatever the issue might be.

Ok, this is great to know. I did not realize that it wouldn't run if it's dead ass empty. I'll recharge it this weekend and see if I can get it cooling. Huge thanks.

 

[Doubeleive]

Ok, this is great to know. I did not realize that it wouldn't run if it's dead ass empty. I'll recharge it this weekend and see if I can get it cooling. Huge thanks.

ya it might take a couple cans, it has have a specific amount of pressure before it will kick on and it still needs to be full for best performance

 

[Doubeleive]

and if it is not filling up then it's pissing out somewhere in which case you will need to get the refrigerant with leak detection so you can find out where the hole is or what seal is bad

 

[M1Gunner]

Definitely would’ve started by checking the fuse, power/ground to the connector at the compressor. Or even jumping the relay that powers the compressor to see if it kicks on...

If it was leaking out it would’ve been kicking in and off the compressor noticeably more and more as the refridgerant leaked out.

 

[swathdiver]

I don't know about these GMT800s but he 900s can see everything about the AC through an advanced scan tool. The Tech2 can see AC codes, pressures, temperatures, and even command the compressor on and off for testing, etc.

But without it, the can with the little gauge is the way to go for a first test. Years ago I too wanted to just replace the compressor clutch without tearing into the system but it was never possible on those old A and G body cars. Had to change the compressor and accumulator at least.

 

[Scottydoggs]

if its dry it leaked out, sooooo, best to either find the oiled up dirty wet spot thats on one one of the lines, or at a sensor. fix that leak, then refill it, other wise its just a waste of money for it to work for 2-3 days or less.

if you cant find that oiled up wet spot, use a can of dye refill, at least your learning where the leak is that way. not 100% waste of money.

 

[sumo]

Do yourself a favor and take it to a certified ac repair shop. Since you don’t know why the compressor isn’t kicking on, you could be trying to Add to the system that’s fully charged. I suggest you start with a ac system evacuation. After the system is drained, a vaccume will be put on to the system which will indicate if there’s a leak. Before the system is recharged, dye is added so if there any leaks, it will be visable under a UV light.

 

[M1Gunner]

That’s where checking the fuse relay and verifying power and ground to the compressor is being delivered comes into play. If that’s all there and you then supply power and ground to the compressor wether it kicks on or not will tell you wether it’s electrical or pressure related.

If any ever has to add refridgerant to an hvac system to get it to work, you have a leak and need to address it before adding more refrigerant to it. Even if you decide to introduce more refridgerant to the system everytime and don’t address the leak all you’re doing is setting yourself up for disaster. You’re losing oil with every leak and not supplying more into the system and let alone allowing moisture to chemical rot the system from the inside out.

 

[M1Gunner]

Do yourself a favor and take it to a certified ac repair shop. Since you don’t know why the compressor isn’t kicking on, you could be trying to Add to the system that’s fully charged. I suggest you start with a ac system evacuation. After the system is drained, a vaccume will be put on to the system which will indicate if there’s a leak. Before the system is recharged, dye is added so if there any leaks, it will be visable under a UV light.

Valuable information here but unfortunately not all leaks will show themselves through a leak check when applying vacuum to a system. You may have a leak acting as a check valve, vacuum will seal yet positive pressure will allow it to open. But as you have suggested, adding dye will give away the culprit in that scenario.

 

[sumo]

Yes very true but let’s say there was a substantial leak like a failed o ring or puncture in the condenser big enough to loose the entire charge rapidly then it will fail the vacuume test. Our machine tells us if it’s holding a vacuume and advise us not to charge. We still charge it anyways because we inject the dye and cycle the compressor to circulate the dye so we can pinpoint the leak

 

[DonnieBrasco]

Hey everyone, got some updates here and need further advice...

I cranked up, blasted the AC, and connected the can gauge. Sure enough, it was at zero psi. So I started filling. And pretty quickly (much faster than I assumed), it started going up. Then the compressor kicked on, the pressure dropped lower, then slowly started coming up again. I filled it until the reading was firmly in the upper portion of the green "filled" area on the gauge. Then I checked the AC temperature, and it was still not cooling. So I hooked the gauge back up, and it read in the green still.

Does it take some run time for the refrigerant to fully "run through the system" and start cooling? Or should it be pretty immediate? What are my next steps?

 

[sumo]

Hard to say. If it’s at zero it most likely leaked out. At this point my man, I suggest you take it to a ac shop. Those gauges that come with the cans aren’t really any good. Have them evac it recharge it with dye to spec. Once they do that and if your ac stops working again, at least you can take a uv light to find where it might Be leaking from. Blindly filling your system you run the risk of overcharging and damaging the compressor, seals or piping.

 

[DonnieBrasco]

Hard to say. If it’s at zero it most likely leaked out. At this point my man, I suggest you take it to a ac shop. Those gauges that come with the cans aren’t really any good. Have them evac it recharge it with dye to spec. Once they do that and if your ac stops working again, at least you can take a uv light to find where it might Be leaking from. Blindly filling your system you run the risk of overcharging and damaging the compressor, seals or piping.

Damn. That's what I was afraid of. Any ballpark idea on what kind of cost I am looking at (not repairs, just to evac and recharge/diagnose it)? Like is this a $200 type thing, or a $500 type thing? Thanks for the advice.

 

[sumo]

Damn. That's what I was afraid of. Any ballpark idea on what kind of cost I am looking at (not repairs, just to evac and recharge/diagnose it)? Like is this a $200 type thing, or a $500 type thing? Thanks for the advice.

Our shop charges 1 hour to evac and recharge and the cost of Freon. I’d say 150 to 200 range. When the customers comeback for an ac inspection we don’t charge again unless they want to have repairs done needed to fix the problem