A/C problems

[dsltrc]

Well I'm having problems with the A/C... i've replaced the inline filter and when i put a charge on the system the compressor would cycle on then the pressure would drop and the compressor would shut off.... then the pressure will build and then the compressor would turn back on... it cycles on and off like every 10 seconds and keeps doing this over and over but no cold air would blow... any help would be great

 

[Devious_Tahoe96]

Bad compressor?????

 

[SunlitComet]

exactly what in line filter did your replace and did you evacuate your system before and after part replacement?

 

[sumo]

could be a number of things, but the fact the compressor is on and off constantly sounds like a undercharge

 

[theghoul]

Thread hijack!
Im having the same issue w/my 96 hoe ac. the clutch goes on / off every 5-10 seconds. I put in a LARGE can of 134a in ( 18oz. )
The short backstory is: Hoe was STOLEN last year, when got it back it was smashed big time in front end & had NO tires / wheels! ( another thread perhaps...)
but after body work was done ( evap. was smashed ), AC was repaired / refilled and worked FREEZING! for about 3 months...Then next spring it only blew fan, NOT cold...had it checked at a diff. shop, they filled again w/dye to look for leaks. none at first glance. they said " bring it back when it stops blowing cold" and "we'll see where its leaking from then". So now its summer & thought I'd refill myself to see if I could get a few months of cool out of a recharge. It blows "Kinda" cool now, only about 10% cooler than fan alone ( but nowhere near a cold as it was) Could another can of DIY 134a do it? or is the clutch condition going to keep it from working 100%?

 

[SunlitComet]

For a 96 you should expect 8-10 cycles per minuteAdd a little freon with a pressure gauge set if possible and use on with a leak dye in it.

 

[theghoul]

Ok...
I was just messing w/it a few mins ago & now the clutch wont engage at all.
I put the (empty ) can of 134a w/hose & gauge back on to test pressure.
If the gauge is correct, its in the red when clutch is off. It was going between red & green ( good ) as I was filling it a few days ago ( red w/clutch off, green with on ).
would adding another can mess w/it now or get the clutch going?

 

[SunlitComet]

you probably just drained what was left in there. What kind of charging hose are you using?

trigger valve? knob valve?

 

[ChiTahoe]

Do yourself a favor and have a shop evac and recharge it. Worth the $80 to have the proper amount of refrigerant in it and dye. Then see what happens.

 

[theghoul]

ok.
I did have a shop do it last time...thats where I'm at now! i should have mentioned i did take it back to them a few months go for a major tune up & asked them about the leak/ dye. they saw nothing! so i figured it was a under dashboard leak & didnt want to tackle that myself or pay them the labor to diagnose it!
I'll probably have to do that eventually , but thought it was worth it to DIY at least for this season.

BTW: I am using a trigger valve.

 

[SunlitComet]

did you get any pressure at all just by hooking it up last and where on the gauge was it?

Assuming you emptied it out and you choose to recharge it again put a new can and pull the trigger until it starts and continue to pull it only when the compressor is running and observe the gauge reading as giving you an accurate reading with the compressor on and trigger not pulled.

So when you are reading the pressure you would want it as close to the end of the green band as possible without getting into the caution level. That should get you the best result for whatever condition the rest of your system is in.

 

[theghoul]

Back on this AC case...
well, I checked using the old trigger/gauge from the 1st can of refrige i got. it was going into the red! but since the comp. isn't going now.
As I was filing it last week, the gauge would go in the green when comp. was spinning, then red whet it stop. back & Forth.
Seem like its full...but I got a second small can anyway.
Should i maybe be looking at the cycling switches or something?
Seems like everyone else has had issues w/those.
thanks...hotter by the minute here!

 

[SunlitComet]

it goes into red because when compressor is not engaged pressure equalizes in lines. When compressor is on it drops to green because you are measuring suctioning. How is a second can working for you? When compressor is on add refrigerant then and with trigger closed also check when running see if you can get it down to mid 30 at start of engagement and go from there. If the suction pressure drops below about 22 and the compressor is still going then maybe look at the switch. it is lack of refrigerant in almost all cases.Want a performance test chart? Post #2

 

[Chevyrider619]

Damn i'm having those same iisues with my a/c.. Took it to pepboys they recharged it with dye in it so i thought it leaked it all out but no. At times it start to get cold but at first when it got charged u only needed to crank it up 2 notches i hate this shit man!.. Well do you guys think if i get it drained and filled back again mite help? i hope so cause this is getting pricey

 

[SunlitComet]

Have the running pressure checked and see if you can match them to the chart on the link I posted above. If you can't get a match try and report them here so it can be diagnosed. Was the dye they put in UV dye and just perhaps you can't see it without a UV light? Is there dirty oil residue building up on any of its connections or components? I would check the pressures first to help determine if it is a leak you just can't see yet or a component failure before just dumping more in there since it at least is still running.

 

[Chevyrider619]

Yeah it's uv. I have the light but not here it's in my work truck.. I'm just thinking of replacing the whole A/C System forget this struggling.. I'm sure that gots to be original compressor and all the rest..

 

[SunlitComet]

Seems like a big waste of money and labor.

 

[theghoul]

Well, added the rest of 2nd can tonight & still NO COOL or COMPRESSOR spin!
Not sure where to go now...I even did the paperclip short on the harness of low line...still no spin.
any ideas what to try next?

it goes into red because when compressor is not engaged pressure equalizes in lines. When compressor is on it drops to green because you are measuring suctioning. How is a second can working for you? When compressor is on add refrigerant then and with trigger closed also check when running see if you can get it down to mid 30 at start of engagement and go from there. If the suction pressure drops below about 22 and the compressor is still going then maybe look at the switch. it is lack of refrigerant in almost all cases.Want a performance test chart? Post #2

 

[Chevyrider619]

U think it will be a waste Sunlit??? why cause my compressor is still going? honestly i really ain't got it like that now but it's getting hot out here and we got a new born coming in exactly 29 days feel me. but, if you think there's something else i should try hey i really appreciate any light.

 

[SunlitComet]

Well, added the rest of 2nd can tonight & still NO COOL or COMPRESSOR spin!
Not sure where to go now...I even did the paperclip short on the harness of low line...still no spin.
any ideas what to try next?

Clarify, are you talking about the switch harness on top off the compressor or the one on the accumulator/drier. DO you get 12 volts at two different terminals in the clutch relay socket With a multimeter?

---------- Post added at 11:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:17 AM ----------

U think it will be a waste Sunlit??? why cause my compressor is still going? honestly i really ain't got it like that now but it's getting hot out here and we got a new born coming in exactly 29 days feel me. but, if you think there's something else i should try hey i really appreciate any light.

First you may replace a compressor and accumulator/drier but unless something is leaking, physically or a switch is malfunctioning the rest of the system can be flushed out and reused. If flushed I would remove the orifice tube before hand and put a new one in after. Can you get the light for a leak check. One other way but would mean you have to buy the stuff is inject it with nitro gen (DO NOT SYSTEM) and use an electronic sniffer that picks up on it they can find leaks as small as 1/2oz a year.

Second, can you get running pressures posted? You just keep running low on refrigerant after a while right? or is there something else.