95 hoe, First couple of days

[SunlitComet]

that s a problem. that hvac box should be putting air downward thru the vents over the drivetrain hump in the middle when that output is selected. as you see in the pic below. you would see that the box in that area is a cover for the heater core. it is likely someone kicked a hoe in it.seal it up as best as possible with no leaks and retest the airflow. if still an issue the either something is wrong with the control assy or the door motor. eventually that hole should be repaired by replacement.

 

[joeshark]

This is what it looks like with tape off. Maybe I'll have to find some kind strong glue, that'll work well with plastic. Any ideas?

Also the smoke I am to be getting still & only while starting car after its been sitting over night; its white or gray.

 

[SunlitComet]

ouch, you can plastic welding but i recommend replacing that cover.

 

[joeshark]

Yea, but where to get it, it's the question :/ the wreckers maybe

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[SunlitComet]

http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/chevrolet-cover-htr~52467128.html

$40+shipping.

 

[joeshark]

Thanks allot sunlit for all the help so far I'll order the cover, hopefully that'll fix the air issue, gotta have good air flow over the winter.

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[joeshark]

Ugh wrong cover, I needed the top Half, not bottom :/ it's all good though; I bought black silicone, seems to do the job. Still looks like sealing it up has not cured the problem. The air flow has not changed. Also kind of weird, but looks like there might be what like like antifreeze in there?
So, besides the air leak; the other possible sources of problems are door motor or control assy?
What exactly are these? And which is the most likely culprit, or way to test?
Could it also be a blower motor?

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[SunlitComet]

well coolant is not a good sign at all. that usually indicates the heater core has been leaking or coolant from the hose fitting in the engine bay has seeped thru (always a better option). as far as airflow control the one that controls the output locations is the motor on the left side of the hvac box. you can see it although with some difficulty by looking above and to the accelerator pedal and cable joint. the motor controls two different linkages that operate two interacting doors inside the box. by the way the antifreeze is colored orange or green depending where in the model year your was made as the made a switch over for better stuff.if your engine bay has a sticker that says to use dexcool do not under any circumstances and anything else but that and distilled water. it is really good stuff but very sensitive to contamination of other coolants. other thing is when you mention the top half of the box, although it is still available at $77 online, that involves pulling out the whole assembly and needing to discharge the coolant and refrigeration systems as well. if you do this it is very advantageous to really give the assembly a good once over and replace the seals in the unit as well. hvac assemblies don't take well to reusing seals that have been squished heated and cooled for many years. you might even find one that has popped out on the left side of the box assembly. if the linkages i mentioned earlier are still connected and move every moment in the same direction that the mode dial would be moved from one end to the other then the control head, motor, wiring, linkages and very likely the doors are all good. try to and see what happens and we can go from there.

 

[joeshark]

Thanks sunlit. I've narrowed down the issue with 1-3 air settings not working, it is definitely the blower motor relay. $20 part. Once that starts going, settings 1-3 start going at least it is cheap & diy.
I will have to find out about heater core, or hoses; don't think any of the hoses are leaking, but wanted to change them anyhow, easier/cheapest option though. Either way, not enough to be a major concern right now. I'll monitor it. You are right about the upper plastic housing; I'm sure that won't even be an issue once the relay is replaced; the silicone will be enough to seal the entire thing more than enough

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[SunlitComet]

the relay only turns on the high speed and cuts off the other moderated speeds from getting to the motor in the process. there are other parts in the system that can cut off fan speeds and control of the motors. as always more details help narrow it down. a burned out resistor can kill speeds 1-3 as well. odds are that or the blower switch are more likely the issue while the high speed relay is very rare.

 

[joeshark]

Huh ok, well I'll start with the relay, will update when done

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[joeshark]

Ok, so the blower motor resistor was the problem as I suspected; problem fixed.
Pain in the ass getting old one out & new one in, but worth every penny, not having to pay who knows what to mechanic to do
Sunlit I made mistake before in saying relay, I meant to say resistor; we were both on the same page


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[joeshark]

So seems like one problem gets fixed another comes up lol. Nothing major thank goodness.
Resistor working great, but now looks as though foot vent status open all the time. If I turn on the fan, the foot vent closes lol. Any ideas?

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[SunlitComet]

check the linkages on the left side of hvac box above gas pedal. there are two and should move when motor moves only.

 

[joeshark]

Ok will do

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[joeshark]

Ok so been checking around at different shops for valve stem seals replacement & most won't do it, those that might want to do machining. Only place that would do it is an AC Delco shop and they want $650 for the job & no guarantee.
This seems so steep?



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[joeshark]

Hey guys, another question. Yesterday I had new wires, cap/rotor, coil, plugs, put in. Not sure if battery should've been disconnected after the job to reset computer?
Anyhow, everything seemed fine, but after truck got to operating temp, the idle in drive at stop was low at about 500 & it was stuttering. In park idle was about 700.
Before doing work was about 700 in drive stopped & 1k in park.
I got stuck in traffic & all the while was stuttering at stop. Soon as I got to place I could futz around, only thing I could think to do was to maybe raise rpm with adjustment knob on drivers side of air intake?
Don't know if this was right or not to do, but did get rpm back up.
This morning I disconnected battery for about minute.
Idle seems ok now about 700 in drive stopped & 1k in park, am I ok?

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[SunlitComet]

do not touch that throttle plate screw. return to where it was and try resetting the iac valve.

 

[joeshark]

Ugh too late to return back to where it was. It might be close to original spot. How to reset iac valve?
Purchased scanner, it doesn't have a read out lol; have to count out the check engine flashes to figure out Code.
Hopefully I'm right; haven't done Morse Code in forever [emoji14] looks like the codes I'm getting right now are
33. Mass air flow sensor - signal voltage of frequency is high during engine idle. Or:
MAP sensor - signal voltage is high during engine idle
&
35. Idle air control system problem - can not set desired rpm or idle speed actuator carbureted system problems.

Any ideas what I should look into?

Is the rpm supposed to be 750 in drive, or in park?

 

[joeshark]

Lil bump

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