95 hoe, First couple of days

[joeshark]

Hey Guys,

So I have my new to me 2dr Tahoe in hand.

It's a 95 in pretty decent shape, with 111k. Motor and tranny seem just dandy(knock on wood).

Couple of issues so far...
Steering wheel is at 1oclock position while driving straight. Took it to a mechanic I know with full shop. They told me that wheel alignment couldn't be done, because 1st it needs a pitman arm, and idler arm.
Ok so I bought the parts, and headed to another mechanic which I trust and have been using for 15 yrs, he was to install parts, because his cost is much less.
He told me there was no need for the parts at all, even after I questioned multiple times. He told me that alignment can be done, but that they may need to do something further to adjust steering wheel, don't know exactly what that is. He doesn't do alignments unfortunately.

So assuming he is correct and I do not need parts. I will try another alignment place and get their opinion. Any suggestions?

Secondly brake pedal was pulsating while braking, I assumed it needed rotors and pads, and it did, they were shot. Alas That helped with braking, but pulsing of pedal is still there Any ideas? i'm thinking first to try and do a full bleeding and replacement of fluid? And if that doesn't work, then it must be brake booster or master cylinder?

Thanks,
Joe

 

[SunlitComet]

the steering wheel issue is centering the wheel and then do the alignment all over to accommodate the centering. the one use for our vehicles is a thrust angle alignment. at what speeds were the brakes pulsing?

 

[joeshark]

Thanks. I went to do alignment at another shop, was told now that upper ball joints need to be replaced, had friend with me and we concurred. Hopefully after those get done the alignment will work.

The brake pulsing is happening seems around highest speeds, maybe over 30.

 

[SunlitComet]

maybe turn your drum if you have already done the rotors then if and when the steering system repair and alignment does not work. it kind of sounds like the play in the sytem is doing your wobbling.

 

[joeshark]

Thanks sunlit,

I finally was able to get alignment done. The issue with suspension was the ball joints were non existent, totally shot. Once done alignment was done & now, nice steering

As for the brake pedal pulsing. I guess it could possibly be the rear drums, even though the shoes are plenty meaty? Every thing was pretty rusty on drum & shoes though.
My mechanic mentioned maybe issue with abs system, is that possible even though abs dash light comes on during system pre start system check? Relay? Wouldn't abs dash light come on during driving or brake system light, if there was problem with system?

More than likely the problem is rear drums?

 

[SunlitComet]

would check roundness of drums. the abs can do it but the issue often thought of with it is the pulsing issue that happen ant around 5mph area. a tsb was issued on it regarding dirty front sensors but those trip a code and light.

 

[joeshark]

Thanks, I've gone and just picked up new hardware, should have them in tomorrow, see how it works out.

Can you let me know if my map lights are missing a piece? Is there some holder with the glass piece in which the bulb fits into?

 

[bowtiefreak]

Correct, missing the bulb housing

 

[joeshark]

Figured as much, I'll be in the look out for them. Thanks Bowtie.

 

[joeshark]

Some weird stuff going on.... So I had mechanic install new drums & shoes. Turns out the cylinders were both locked up on one side. I'm guessing this is the real culprit with pulsing brake pedal.
Another issue seems to have arisen he did some bleeding, with me. The pedal is very pretty low seems to me.
Also I did some hard breaking & the car just shut off completely, WTH is that? Seems like it's related?

 

[SunlitComet]

is your brake booster leaking vacuum? also the pedal goes quite low on a vacuum booster but always bled the entire system several times until fluid is clear with no bubbles in the line.

 

[joeshark]

I definitely don't know about brake booster leaking vacuum, but surely it was working fine before doing the rears(aside from pulsing pedal) must have something to do with the repair? Is it possible that if there's air in the lines that could cause the shut downs?

---------- Post added at 05:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:51 PM ----------

Also I recently added a few ounces of seafoam to Tank yesterday, with about 5 gallons left in fuel tank. I know it's obviously reached the engine, seen some heavier smoke when starting up. Could this be causing the idle to drop enough to sit truck down?

 

[SunlitComet]

bleeding the brakes no. the seafoam maybe, what color is the smoke and does it happen only at start up?

 

[joeshark]

Seems to have only happened at start up, I'd imagine it's the seafoam doing is thing. The snow seems gray I guess.
Also seems like the stealing issue has gone away, so I'm guessing it was also because of seafoam concentration in small amount of gas?

 

[SunlitComet]

might have been effecting fuel air mixture to much. watch it.

 

[joeshark]

I was thinking now that I have a full tank of gas, I could run a half bottle of seafoam through?
Seems as though motor has a tiny little stuttering, figure might be time to do tune up?

 

[SunlitComet]

if the smoke is gone then maybe do the seafoam again with a light dose. burn it out and reexamine the engine performance.

 

[joeshark]

Thanks Sunlit. I've noticed that smoke happens daily after starting car, then it's gone after 10 seconds. Is this normal for a big truck like this?

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

 

[SunlitComet]

if you have emptied out the tank and really diluted the Seafoam that was in the tank then you should not be seeing smoke any more. check all your fluids and make sure nothing is low in case you might be burning something. check the color of the smoke again. assuming there was no Seafoam used at all what you describe is leaking valve stem seals most likely or possibly the injector are leaking a tad bit at start up. take some more notes and pass on as much detail as possible so we can find the issue.

 

[joeshark]

Thanks sunlit will monitor.

I'm also having an issue with heating/AC airflow output. I don't think I'm getting any air through the vents in the first 3 settings. Only in high do I hear the blower going.
I'm attaching pic, could this box have something to do with it? There is tape apparently trying to seal this up. I'm not sure if the air is leaking through there or if this has anything to do with it? Or if something wrong with blower motor?