46and2008Denali - Build Thread

[46and2008Denali]

So, I have owned my beloved 2008 Denali since 2010 when I purchased it with ~20k miles on it. It has had 3 audio systems in it and a few minor aesthetic mods over the years and is up to about 130k miles now. I shipped it to the Cayman Islands from Texas when I moved here in 2016. I got to a point where I either needed to put some money into it or sell it and get something else. Option A was actually a Sierra AT4 but after looking into what it was going to take to get one here and the fact that I don't have a garage to put it in currently I chose to fix up the Denali. I love this car so it wasn't really that tough of a decision and I've been wanting to mod this thing up and down forever, so now was my opportunity.

I have taken really good care of her, so she's really in pretty good shape for the most part, especially on the inside, so I was stoked to give her some new life.

It has had 3 different audio systems in it, currently has a Singer 270A alt, Pioneer AVH-4100NEX head unit, some kicker components in the kick panels, a couple kicker amps and a pair of JL12W7s. Subs/speakers/amps all getting replaced, going bigger this time (about 7k watts in total...gear is on the way) but first things first....

She needed:

New batteries
New paint
new headlights
wheels/tires
rotors machined
ball joints
outer tie rod ends
rear shocks
air filter
door handles (to be replaced for the second time - black ones this time)

Now here in the Cayman Islands parts and labor can be outrageously expensive (for example, replacing the rear shocks was going to be $1600 USD out the door). I'm a capable DIYer and had most of the required tools already so just decided to take it all on... and of course while we're at it, it's gotta get lowered. I have lifted a truck before (2002 2500HD), but was a long time ago and had quite a bit of help. I knew I was taking on a significant task, but was looking forward to it. Primary problem is not having easy access to Amazon/US retailers so I had to do ALLLL the research and get it all ordered at once, and have it consolidated by a freight forwarder (can't just amazon prime a control arm bolt or something) and the parts and tools available here are either less than ideal or less than ideal and 2x the price.

I did tons of research on this forum to get myself comfortable with the processes and parts required as well as some other fun stuff. So I ordered all the parts and waited the obligatory 6-8 weeks for the shipping/freight forwarding/customs process.

I ordered:

Wheels/Tires
XS Power batteries
Moog UCAs/LCAs/Tie Rod Ends
AC Delco OEM rear shocks
Belltech 2509 Spindles
Belltech 34324 Pro kit
Headlights (Amerilite from Amazon - couldn't talk myself into BlackFlame Customs, don't like the factory look enough, but really pleased with how they turned out and think they're really functional too)
Airraid MIT
Magnaflow 12909
black dual slant tips
Weathertech mud flaps (bc I didn't want to immediately ruin new paint on rear quarter panels - turns out I like the look in the end)
Black door handles 1Aauto

Deaf Bonce Apocalypse AAK 6000.1D
(2) Fi NEO 3.7 15s
(2) Fi N.7 midrange
wire and stuff from SHCA
a buncha Noico deadener
all the other little things you need for a big audio install (hopefully I thought of everything)
Deaf Bonce door speakers/tweeters and amps (yet to be ordered - but there's a dealer on island)

Here's some before pics:

Every single panel had some paint damage:

Interior in good shape though, except for the cracked dash (of course - dashcap has worked out great though) and the elbow wear on the already once replaced center console leather

I'll upload some more progress pics in the next couple of days...

 

[46and2008Denali]

So, I sent her to get painted while I waited for everything to start arriving. While she was out for paint I retrieved the badges and grill/trim pieces from the shop so that I could sand down the chrome grill and plasti dip the badges. I sanded the grill and the hood trim pieces for hours it seemed like, then went with adhesion promoter and primer. I plasti dipped the badges, they turned out alright, may have to do something about them, but good enough for now.

Paint turned out great! Especially for the price, and I think the front clip looks 1000000 times better black instead of chrome

New paint doesn't show quite as well with the hideous headlights, but looked so much better. I mean its not a straight from the factory brand new paint job, but made a huge difference.

 

[46and2008Denali]

I also had them paint the calipers black while they were at it and he had a "dye" (what he called it) that he put on all the plastic trim pieces (running boards, wiper arms, etc etc). That was a gamechanger to freshening up the look.

 

[46and2008Denali]

Dining room table full of car parts - wifey's favorite thing!

Knocked out the easy headlights first - although after I installed them I immediately went and bought the whitest H1 and H7 bulbs available on island since they came with some that were pretty yellow, still not quite the xenon look I was hoping for but will do. Honestly I can't believe how much MORE functional they are over my China special "factory" black housings with LED bulbs in them. Yes, I have read the headlight threads on here and knew the LED bulbs needed to go, these new halogen lights have a LED bar around them that makes it look kinda like the newer model years (more squared off looking). They have a really sharp cutoff and made the whole truck look new.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH, USA.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Great work, so far!!

You should start a new Build Thread on this Forum to document and communicate your planned mods and their installations. I'm very much looking forward to seeing your update posts.

Having been to Grand Cayman many times, way back in the day when I was an active diver, I am jealous of you being there fulltime.

Remembering the roads in Grand Cayman, your truck must really look like a true beast on those small and narrow roads. And, it must be even more interesting, driving that beast in the 'wrong' side of the roads.

 

[46and2008Denali]

Welcome to the Forum from NH, USA.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Great work, so far!!

You should start a new Build Thread on this Forum to document and communicate your planned mods and their installations. I'm very much looking forward to seeing your update posts.

Having been to Grand Cayman many times, way back in the day when I was an active diver, I am jealous of you being there fulltime.

Remembering the roads in Grand Cayman, your truck must really look like a true beast on those small and narrow roads. And, it must be even more interesting, driving that beast in the 'wrong' side of the roads.

Thanks for the welcome - I have been reading for years really, glad to finally participate.

At risk of looking dumb, I was intending for this to be the build thread. Did I put it in the wrong place?

And yes, its a beautiful place to live and I do enjoy having this truck here. My friends call it a "monster truck", until I show them pictures of my previous lifted 2500HD.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I have not personally created a build thread, so I'll leave it to others on this Forum to guide you in this area. IMO, this thread location probably works, though you may want to edit the thread title to include the words 'Build Thread', so that it will be more recognizable by folks. Other folks will chime in.

 

[01FormulaTA]

awesome thread so far, the paint and headlights turned out great, hard to believe it's the same truck!

What wheel and tire combo are you going with?

 

[46and2008Denali]

awesome thread so far, the paint and headlights turned out great, hard to believe it's the same truck!

What wheel and tire combo are you going with?

I know! I was so happy with it, it was making me sad watching her exterior deteriorate day by day

As for wheels and tires... gotta keep something a secret... I'll be uploading some more pics later today!

 

[Tiki]

Cayman cruiser for sure

 

[46and2008Denali]

So here's the baseline picture prior taking her apart

I was hoping I could get this done in 2 days, but I planned it for the long New Years weekend just in case, plus I wasn't able to get started as early as I would have liked the first 2 days. The first few hours were far and away the toughest part, breaking bolts that had been locked down for 130k miles just isn't easy and it always seems like every piece is a jigsaw puzzle of wrenches/ratchets/extensions/swivels to get at them with enough leverage. I did NOT have the right combination to easily get at the upper strut mounts down through the engine bay, so I got immediately discouraged on the passenger side at the very beginning.

I used a video on how to replace lower controls arms from 1A auto and TWA motorsports lowering videos to kind of help guide me through, but the good news is it all starts to make a lot of sense once you get under there and start doing it. But like I said the beginning was the toughest part.

Starting to make progress with my "helper". This picture was taken just moments before he tried to help by attempting to key the truck with that screwdriver.

Got the front end all the way apart, calipers suspended (used a wire coat hanger for this)... exhausting...

Note for the next guy: all the videos are like "oh yeah just suspend it so no pressure on the lines", easier said than done. Would have helped to have extra set of hands to do that but basically balanced it on my knee while I wrapped and twisted the coat hanger around the sway bar.

I didn't start out doing this, but recommend being pretty organized with the parts, I used labeled ziplocks to keep everything together.

Another note.. I could NOT get the lower ball joint to break free from the spindle. I didn't have a pickle fork but whacked that thing with a mini sledge over and over. Eventually I found a forum post where someone was like oh yeah I just took the LCA and spindle off as a unit... duh! Especially since I was replacing both parts I didn't even NEED them apart. Oh well, lesson learned. Also, do yourself a favor and break the tie rod jam nut loose before you take the outer tie rod out of the spindle. Seems obvious now, but not how I did it.

 

[46and2008Denali]

Time to start putting stuff back together. Disaster strikes immediately, the zerk fitting on the driver side LCA had broken off in shipping. I tried to extract it and could not, decided to put it on anyway because I had to keep moving and will deal later. Need to acquire a straight flute or something to get it out. I think I'll be able to get at it just by removing the strut and the axle and its on the driver's side so there are worse things. Now that I've done it once won't be near as hard to do it again, but unfortunate either way. I'm also going back to do inner tie rods in a couple weeks when the parts get here so will handle it then.

Got the controls arms in just before dark on day 1. Kinda look nice just sitting there new by themselves.

Belltech 2509 vs OEM spindle (I'm never planning to go any lower so didn't need the 2511)

And installed plus new outer tie rods, don't forget to cut the UCA bolt off nearly flush with the nut so it doesn't drag across the axle boot (have a pic on my phone, but not in photobucket), you can kinda see it here

And brakes etc all back on

 

[46and2008Denali]

And... front end done! We're back on the ground! Loved it instantly - shrink those fender gaps!

Also, although I kinda like the mud flaps on the front, I immediately realized they weren't going to be able to stay, so they came off as soon as I tried to turn it around to start the back end and rubbed like crazy. Oh well! It might be possible to make them fit with the full norcal cutting fender mod that a lot of the lifted guys use, we'll see if I decide to go back and try and make it work. If any lowered guys have made front mud flaps work I'd love to hear about it.

 

[adventurenali92]

Wow!! That paint job looks killer! I’m jealous! Looks like a whole new truck! The painted black grills and new headlights are a really nice compliment to the new paint as well! Loving the Led bar in the newer headlights that wraps all the way around! Looks really good for these yukons!

 

[ivin74]

Time to start putting stuff back together. Disaster strikes immediately, the zerk fitting on the driver side LCA had broken off in shipping. I tried to extract it and could not, decided to put it on anyway because I had to keep moving and will deal later. Need to acquire a straight flute or something to get it out. I think I'll be able to get at it just by removing the strut and the axle and its on the driver's side so there are worse things. Now that I've done it once won't be near as hard to do it again, but unfortunate either way. I'm also going back to do inner tie rods in a couple weeks when the parts get here so will handle it then.



Got the controls arms in just before dark on day 1. Kinda look nice just sitting there new by themselves.



Belltech 2509 vs OEM spindle (I'm never planning to go any lower so didn't need the 2511)



And installed plus new outer tie rods, don't forget to cut the UCA bolt off nearly flush with the nut so it doesn't drag across the axle boot (have a pic on my phone, but not in photobucket), you can kinda see it here



And brakes etc all back on

I bet your rig runs like new now. Welcome to the forum. Keep the mods coming, lol

 

[gat0r]

lookin good, keep up the good work

 

[Rocket Man]

Nice work so far. Your truck already looks so much better it’s crazy. Looking forward to progress!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Great work and step-by-step documentation of your work, , with photos, and including a discussion on issues encountered and how you resolved them.

This is a top notch build thread, IMO. Keep it up!

 

[46and2008Denali]

Thanks for the responses guys. I wanted to document what I did for myself, but also as I figured out how I was going to approach all this I found little bits here and there from posts/build threads/videos/etc but its hard to find all the little tricks in one place. I don't think I'll catch them all here, but maybe the next guy to look here for info on replacing parts/lowering an NNBS will find it helpful.

Also @ivin74 its amazing how much better it drives, way more fun, just everything feels solid. Will never be able to attribute to new parts vs the drop but I'm so pleased with the outcome thus far.

So... on to the back end. Can see my notes on torque values on the plywood there for the front end. We're on the afternoon of Day 2 here, feeling behind my intended schedule but pressing on.

I saw that some people took the wheel well liners out and some didn't, my advice is that it only take 2 minutes to get them out and creates some more space to work, so do it.

I don't have a great picture of this but I had a really difficult time getting the rear upper shock bolts out. This was really only because I was being dumb. I saw someone say go from inside the frame rail, but at my first glance I didn't think that was possible so I squeezed a breaker bar up through this tiny gap on the outside of the frame rail then fenagled a socket on to there to break the bolt loose. After I got them out that way I realized that you could quite easily with a 6 inch extension (maybe a 6 +3) plus a deep socket get at it from inside the frame rail which made getting them on way easier. Taking them off this way is most likely how I disconnected the wiring harness that sits DIRECLTY on top of the frame rail which causes so many people to get the ABS/stabilitrak error on DIC after this install. I'll come back to that eventually.

Old parts next to new parts

Shock relocation brackets on

 

[46and2008Denali]

Ok... Free Travel Mod time. I was running out of daylight on day 2 and really wanted to make some progress on this part in case it took longer or was more difficult than I was anticipating. I started with the passenger side (and HIGHLY recommend this) to get a feel for how it would go before I did the driver's side so close to the gas tank. I followed guidance again from a TWA motorsports youtube and various forum posts on here. I had a 4 1/2" angle grinder and a sawzall, standard metal cutoff wheels and heavy/medium duty 6 and 9 inch blades for the saw.

Just for reference, here is driver side before

My method may not be the quickest but doing it this way seemed to leave less margin for error. As soon as I took the sawzall to the frame I realize there was going to be a ton blade pitch unless you could make a long straight cut so I started with the angle grinder. I did draw a line on the frame there to map it out for myself but its pretty obvious. I went across cutting all the way through the outside of the rail on my intended cut line. You can see the scars of my mistakes, mostly from being tentative. Once you get really started you realize its not that bad so easier to commit to the cuts.

I then cut upwards on both ends and a relief cut right up the middle. Used a big pry bar to bend it down to get clear(er) access and line of sight to the backside of the rail.

Up to this point I had only used the angle grinder but once I got it bent down a little more I threw the 9 inch heavy duty blade on the sawzall and cut through the back side in one pass like butter. So all in all the passenger side took me like an hour maybe, really not a big deal.

So on to the driver's side, for everyone who said "well its really close to the gas tank so be careful".. you were NOT kidding. It's like really close.

You may have seen earlier in the thread I had a piece of decent gauge aluminum that I stuck the badges to when I painted them, well when I bought that I knew it was going to serve this purpose as well and I highly recommend doing something like this, it didn't make it easy but gave me a lot more confidence in going at this thing, I just wedged it up between the tank and the frame and it served as a pretty adequate guard.

Same general process for the driver's side. Can see the relief cut better in this picture.

Side note: The bumpstops that came with the 34324 pro kit were meant to be factory replacements and really probably too tall, so don't have a bolt of anything or the bottom to mount them. Obviously I'm cutting off the bumpstop mounts here so was always going to put them on the axle pad there. They are currently zip tied in place so that SOMETHING is there, but I'll be acquiring some low-pro bumpstops to replace them. In the end they're just barely not making contact at ride height with the frame. If I hadn't done free travel mod they definitely would have been touching.

So I won't lie, the driver's side is definitely a notch up in difficulty, and I was much more uncomfortable with the sawzall near the gas tank. I ended up going back and forth between the angle grinder and the saw cutting the whole thing into little pieces, especially near the tank. It was tedious, but got the job done.

And here's the blade carnage. I was on my LAST cut off wheel, but I probably did a lot of extra cutting, I'd say 5 is about the right number. Really easy to trash a sawzall blade doing this so have a few of those too. In the end the 6 inch blades were pretty worthless, so wouldn't bother with those if I was doing it again.

Then just grind it down to clean up the sharp edges and put some paint on it. I put paint then rubberized undercoating, I don't know why, seemed like a better safe than sorry situation.

New shocks are in for this pic, and you can see the zip tied bumpstop again. I probably could have cut another 1/4" all the way across, you can kind of see the lip on the far right. But I was out of blades and time and you'll be able to see that you've made the clearance you need for the bumpstop.

One more with the undercoating, that stuff does not like to spray evenly, I was probably too heavy handed with it, oh well it can't really be seen.