2010 Escalade suspension issues

[Rocket Man]

Wait, so you put passive shocks in the rear but kept the Auto/Mag Ride shocks in the front? I can definitely see that causing an issue with the handling characteristics, either delete the Auto/Mag ride completely or keep it completely.

Just what I was thinking after reading through this thread.

 

[Awall10]

That was my next thought, thanks!

While it’s probably not common to do all 4 corners and only keep front magride, I came across several people who swapped to passive rear and left the front alone with no reported issues. Also came across a few threads where the zw7 rears were recommended as a drop in conversion even with 22s, all over on the Cadillac forum. Not sure if they were ever offered on the Escalade but I know it was an option on suburbans. Honestly I’ve driven/ridden in a couple of suburbans and a few Escalades, with and without 22s, and theres nothing special about magride. I’ve ridden in the third row of mine and I have no complaints about how the rear feels with these shocks. Maybe that’s the source of all my problems but it seems odd that others claim to have this exact setup with no reported issues if that’s the case. I really don’t know why I decided to keep front magride when so many seem to hate it other than it was only slightly more expensive. Maybe I’ll just replace it all again and get new tires. I don’t have any bent wheels so if it were shocks/struts/tires that would surely take care of it...and the saga continues...

 

[Awall10]

Also I’m fairly new to this forum and a couple others, this truck has a few issues which are really driving me even crazier than my 535 used to. Thanks all for the time and replies so far, I really appreciate it.

 

[91RS]

The problem is that most people really don’t know what they’re talking about and think they know better than the engineers. I’m not saying that’s you but you have to be careful with information you find online which usually comes from cousin Sally’s third husband’s best friend’s mother-in-law who knew a guy who worked in detail at a dealership 30 years ago but know every in and out of the business.

The Auto/Mag Ride does have better ride quality and control than the trucks without. It isn’t a massive difference but the “premium ride” trucks definitely wallow more and don’t feel nearly as solid. But for this to be the case everything has to be in order because any worn out parts will make it not feel like it should. Once thing I will say is that I do believe you are supposed to change the rear springs if you are deleting the air suspension.

I’d still bet most of your issue is something with the tires which may or may not be fixable. I would call around to your local GM dealers and ask if they have a technician experienced in correcting roadforce issues and have them check out your tires. The Toyos aren’t horrible tires but sometimes a particular tire just doesn’t work well on a particular vehicle. Michelin Defender LTX is the best choice in my experience.

 

[swathdiver]

...I do believe you are supposed to change the rear springs if you are deleting the air suspension.

Adam, did you keep the stock rear springs too?

My truck has the stock dumb suspension, ZW7, the rear springs are 25783733/45H2164 and shocks are 25871227/540-435.

And back to the Tech-2, the front shocks still need to be calibrated/programmed if you want to keep them running correctly.

 

[Awall10]

Adam, did you keep the stock rear springs too?

My truck has the stock dumb suspension, ZW7, the rear springs are 25783733/45H2164 and shocks are 25871227/540-435.

And back to the Tech-2, the front shocks still need to be calibrated/programmed if you want to keep them running correctly.

Kept the same rear springs. I figured I could change them later if there was a problem since the air suspension doesn’t actively hold the truck up without a load like the old nivomats do. That was my understanding at least.

540-435 are what I used, not sure what springs are on mine currently.

Looking into getting a tech2 on eBay. I plan to keep this truck for a while so I might as well buy one either way.

 

[Rocket Man]

Kept the same rear springs. I figured I could change them later if there was a problem since the air suspension doesn’t actively hold the truck up without a load like the old nivomats do. That was my understanding at least.

540-435 are what I used, not sure what springs are on mine currently.

Looking into getting a tech2 on eBay. I plan to keep this truck for a while so I might as well buy one either way.

Actually it does. Every time you start the truck the compressor kicks on and adds air to the bladders. The springs are softer than the non- auto leveling system. If you change to standard shocks you should change springs.

 

[tjfish]

I have a 2010 ESV 2wd with magneride and 22 inch wheels, 200k miles. Ive replaced all four struts/shocks, a hub, upper control arm, lower balljoint, swaybar endlinks, inner and outer tierods, then an alignment. Everything was replaced with correct oem or moog parts. I am still experiencing a rough ride on the highway mainly. Over larger bumps/speedbumps and through dips its perfect, but for some reason it makes seemingly smooth roads feel like washboards. I originally thought it was the front left strut that was bad agin after a few thousand miles so I replaced it again and there was zero change. The tires are all relatively new and recently balanced. I unpluged the front shocks and the whole front end got very soft and wallowy like its supposed to but still feels very rough on smooth roads. The feeling changes with different road surfaces but is more noticeable the smoother the road is. I tried putting the spare on it to see if a softer sidewall might help and even let some air out of the tires to see if that changed anything but it seems exactly the same. The only think I can find with any play in it that may be worn out is the coupling shaft that goes into the top of the steering rack but I cant see that causing this. Its not really noticeable under 40 but is most pronounced between 65-75, havent been much faster since everything was replaced. If anyone has any thoughts or has had a similar experience after replacing the entire front end please let me know. Is it possibly driveline related? It definitely feels like its in the front end. I know these trucks dont ride the best with 22 inch wheels but there is definitely something wrong this isnt just a product of large wheels, it didnt ride like this in the past.

I know this sounds illogical but it might be worth checking with the dealer. My 2016 Denali had a shuffleboard ride on the freeways. This problem stayed with the vehicle until about 7 months ago when my dealer called and said there was a recall that might apply to my vehicle ride. They changed the torque converter oil and the problem is now gone. Go figure? Anyway, maybe worth a try.

 

[Awall10]

I know this sounds illogical but it might be worth checking with the dealer. My 2016 Denali had a shuffleboard ride on the freeways. This problem stayed with the vehicle until about 7 months ago when my dealer called and said there was a recall that might apply to my vehicle ride. They changed the torque converter oil and the problem is now gone. Go figure? Anyway, maybe worth a try.

I believe I’ve read about a tsb or recall or something on newer trucks regarding a torque converter shudder of some sort in my searches, could have even been a post from you if you posted about it. I was hoping to avoid having it worked on but I likely wouldn’t be able to diagnose something like that. Could be a driveshaft/ujoint issue or even a motor/trans mount but I haven’t gotten around to looking at any of that yet.

Was your shuffleboard ride load or rpm dependent? Not sure if you ever tried but if I put my truck in neutral on the highway and let it drop to idle or rev the engine there’s no change. Could still be a driveline issue but that would rule out a torque converter to me. I had bad carrier bearing on a previous car that felt very similar to this but it only happened while accelerating.

 

[Rocket Man]

The TC shudder is an issue with the 15-20 models, not the 07-14’s.

 

[Awall10]

The TC shudder is an issue with the 15-20 models, not the 07-14’s.

I thought so and I don’t think that’s my problem but it shows a torque converter can cause symptoms that some would describe as a shuffleboard or washboard esque ride and not just a vibration. I’m not going to rule anything out but I’m leaning towards a tire or another bad strut at this point.

 

[isp5190]

one thing you can check is the rear air pump operation.
1. turn the key to run, then listen near the drivers rear tire area, you should hear the air pump run for a few seconds.
2. have a helper turn the key to run while you are listening close the rear drivers side tire, you should hear some air release for just a brief second then you should hear the pump come on for a few seconds.
3. reach under the rear of the vehicle and give the rear shock bladder a squeeze (like charmin) it should have some slight firmness, if it is very hard and you do not hear the brief air release when turning the key to run then the pump air release valve may be defective and it is just pumping the bladders up until they are rock hard and causing a rough ride.
4. alternatively if the pump does not run each time you turn the key to run then this is a sign the pump is probably not working right.
5. if the air pump runs and the shock bladders are not inflated at all then you have a leak.
6. check the shock bladders the next morning (before you turn the key to start) they should be still holding air from the previous day.
7. if you never hear the pump running and the bladders are empty then you probably have a blown air pump.

Like James said the system could probably use a calibration any shop with a tech2 could do it, it only takes a couple minutes. or just buy one of the clones and have it for future money saving troubleshooting.
when the calibration is performed be sure the vehicle is empty (no passengers or anything loaded in it) and be sure it is parked on a level surface, the calibration can be done with the tech2 cable running thru the door window and standing from outside the vehicle.

How do I check to see if I have a leak, shocks, lines, ect..? Our 2009 LTZ's air pump seems to be running longer and more than in the pass.

 

[Rocket Man]

How do I check to see if I have a leak, shocks, lines, ect..? Our 2009 LTZ's air pump seems to be running longer and more than in the pass.

Soapy water in a spray bottle and spray the fittings and shock air bladders.

 

[Doubeleive]

How do I check to see if I have a leak, shocks, lines, ect..? Our 2009 LTZ's air pump seems to be running longer and more than in the pass.

aside from what mark said, before you start the truck in the morning reach under and squeeze the bellows on a shock, if it is deflated in the morning before the pump is ran then you probably have a leak, it is a parallel system the line goes from the pump and to both shocks it's not separate to each side. In my case I had leaking shocks so I replaced them and the pump, later down the road about a year I was loosing air in the shocks so I did the water soap test and discovered the air pump was leaking air, replaced the pump again and no problems since

 

[isp5190]

How do I check to see if I have a leak, shocks, lines, ect..? Our 2009 LTZ's air pump seems to be running longer and more than in the pass.

Got the new shocks installed this evening. Although this past weekend (before new shocks) when towing the boat the pump was not running. What fuse powers the pump? Or the pump when bad?