2006 Yukon xl Denali Bose y91

[Slow yukon]

Hey so I have a 2006 gmc Yukon xl Denali with the Bose premium y91. Stock everything. I was listening to music with the cassette aux. and it was very loud and I could go max volume and no distortion. So anyways I wanted to upgrade to touchscreen
So I got a Sony xav3600 and the crux swrgm-48 because it workes with the y91 system. And everything works steering wheel controls etc. but I noticed it wasn’t as loud as the stock radio. And not as clear. The loudness on the stock radio blows it away 2x. And the max I can go on the Sony was 40/50 volume. Yes I checked the equalizer and meat the setting and even had everything flat and still nothing. So I was wondering maybe it was the harness. I was thinking of trying the pac rp5-gm11. Any thoughts of everything I just said thanks in advanced.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

In all probability, your volume issue is associated with a speaker-head unit impedance mismatch. (Your crux swrgm-48 interface unit has nothing to do with this impedance mismatch issue). This is a common issue with partial changes to a factory Bose system. Your aftermarket head unit is looking for speaker impedances between 4 and 8 Ohms, and your Bose speakers have impedances in the neighborhood of 2 Ohms. As such, your Bose speakers need about twice the amperage delivered for the same sound volume, compared to a 4 Ohm speaker, and your aftermarket head unit is designed to deliver at its design speaker impedance criteria. This impedance mismatch also degrades the sound quality itself coming out of the speakers.

To resolve this, you should consider replacing your speakers with 4 Ohm aftermarket speakers, and eliminate the impedance mismatch. I eliminated my entire Bose system and replaced with with aftermarket components, primarily because I am not a big fan of the Bose sound (personal preference), and I did not want to create any impedance mismatch issues.

 

[Slow yukon]

In all probability, your volume issue is associated with a speaker-head unit impedance mismatch. (Your crux swrgm-48 interface unit has nothing to do with this impedance mismatch issue). This is a common issue with partial changes to a factory Bose system. Your aftermarket head unit is looking for speaker impedances between 4 and 8 Ohms, and your Bose speakers have impedances in the neighborhood of 2 Ohms. As such, your Bose speakers need about twice the amperage delivered for the same sound volume, compared to a 4 Ohm speaker, and your aftermarket head unit is designed to deliver at its design speaker impedance criteria. This impedance mismatch also degrades the sound quality itself coming out of the speakers.

To resolve this, you should consider replacing your speakers with 4 Ohm aftermarket speakers, and eliminate the impedance mismatch. I eliminated my entire Bose system and replaced with with aftermarket components, primarily because I am not a big fan of the Bose sound (personal preference), and I did not want to create any impedance mismatch issues.

I see what you’re saying but the Bose amp is pushing the speakers not the head unit.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I see what you’re saying but the Bose amp is pushing the speakers not the head unit.

OK, I see your point.

 

[S33k3r]

I see what you’re saying but the Bose amp is pushing the speakers not the head unit.

There is still an impedance mismatch. From what you have described, it is between the head unit and the amplifier.

 

[scuzz215]

I have a 2006 Escalade with the Bose y91 that I just bought 2 months ago and it did not have a head unit. (Previous owner kept his aftermarket one) I have a full system that I am installing anyway so it didn't matter. To start I installed my Alpine Ilx-w650 and a PAC rp5-gm11 using the factory amp and speakers until I could install the rest. I was very disappointed in the lack of volume and bass, but haven't heard one of these stock so I figured it was normal. I recently started on the next stage of my install which was adding a junction block under the dash for connecting other 12v accessories. I ran a 6 awg OFC power wire to the block (yes, 6 awg is overkill, but I had it laying around and it was already fused) and then decided to run new power (fused) and grounds from that distribution block to the head unit directly and it made a huge difference in total volume output and the amount of bass from the factory system. Both volume and bass doubled! I don't know why it made such a difference, but I am shocked at how much better it sounds now. I would compare it to an aftermarket system with a 4 channel amp pushing 40-50 watts to decent aftermarket speakers and the bass is comparable to a small 8-10 inch sub in a sealed box with 300 watts of power.

To make a long story short, try running a dedicated power wire from the battery to the headunit wiring harness and a new ground. I think the power from the interface is just barely enough to turn on the head unit. Try using 12-14 awg wire (fused) directly from the battery and a matching ground right to the frame of the dash. Just cut your power and ground wires that run from the interface to the head units wiring harness.