2006 Yukon XL 2500 6.0L dies/stutters at cruising speed randomly

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Wes
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Battery cables and grounds look good. Got a mechanical gauge and planning on checking the pressure this weekend. Drove it this morning for about 40 min without issue. I did clean the MAF and replaced the MAP sensor this past weekend. What pressures should I be looking at on the fuel pump when checking with the gauge? Thanks!
on the gmt800's it should be 50+ running
 
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jmlhd7

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on the gmt800's it should be 50+ running
alright, I had a short one and hooked it up last night but it was 60 psi at idle in the garage. waiting to get a longer hose and tape to the windshield while driving to see if it changes/drops much.
 

Doubeleive

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alright, I had a short one and hooked it up last night but it was 60 psi at idle in the garage. waiting to get a longer hose and tape to the windshield while driving to see if it changes/drops much.
60 is healthy, but ya monitor it just to see if it is crapping out
 

Bigburb3500

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Battery cables and grounds look good. Got a mechanical gauge and planning on checking the pressure this weekend. Drove it this morning for about 40 min without issue. I did clean the MAF and replaced the MAP sensor this past weekend. What pressures should I be looking at on the fuel pump when checking with the gauge? Thanks!
I had a bad MAF on mine as well. Whenever it would rain or super high humidity the engine would cut out.
 
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jmlhd7

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I've driven it for 3 days straight now after cleaning the MAF and replacing the MAP and haven't had the dying/stutter happen again, but still driving around with a scanner hooked up to try to catch any code. supposed to get a long fuel gauge today and will drive with that too. Noticed today that after the engine was warm my idle rpms were down almost near 300 RPMs on the gauge. Didn't sound like it was dying or starving, but I honestly don't remember it normally being that low on the gauge.
 

rockola1971

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Verify the ACTUAL idle rpm reported on the scanner. Never trust the instrument cluster when troubleshooting. These clusters of this era arent exactly the most dependable in the world.
 
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jmlhd7

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Verify the ACTUAL idle rpm reported on the scanner. Never trust the instrument cluster when troubleshooting. These clusters of this era arent exactly the most dependable in the world.
I have an OBD scanner but it doesn't do live reads. Anything you'd recommend to verify this? Not trying to break the bank but would like to get this figured out.
 

rockola1971

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I have an OBD scanner but it doesn't do live reads. Anything you'd recommend to verify this? Not trying to break the bank but would like to get this figured out.
What unit are you using? Just about any basic scanner will show RPM, Fuel trims, ignition advance. etc.
 
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jmlhd7

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Alright, an update, but with limited testing. About 10 days ago I cleaned the MAF sensor and the MAP. When pulling the MAP sensor I noticed the o-ring was damaged. Instead of just replacing the O-ring I just purchased a new OEM Map sensor and installed it. Since then I've driven the yukon a total of 4 trips, probaby 60 miles total and have not had it die or any of the shutters/jerks at driving speed.

I have also hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and taped it to my windshield for one drive and it was consistently at 60 psi while driving.

Today I got a new scanner that does live graphs of RPMs and it idle (engine was cold, just started to test it) my gauge tach dropped to roughly 300rpm, but my scanner was reading 650ish RPM at idle.

My plan is to continue driving it more with a fuel gauge attached to see if there are any fluctuations and I'm also going to keep driving it with a scanner hooked up to see if I get any pending codes if it happens to stutter/jerk or die.

I have a hard time believing that MAF/MAP sensor would be the root cause of my issues, so I'm assuming it will mess up again, but it was happening pretty frequently before cleaning those sensors.

On a different note, what do I do about the gauge tach being off? I feel like that is a recent development with me trying to track down this random issue as I don't remember it being that low for the first year of ownership.

My initial thought is its still most like the crank position sensor, but also it would just be a guess. I'd like to have some proof before changing more parts.
 

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