Have code p1518 and p0178, just replaced tac module. I was changing the radio and it already had an aftermarket interface harness to retain Bose and instant, I got ahold of myself and cut the aftermarket harness while it was plugged into the factory harness, I don’t know if it’s related or not but since that happened I’ve had a check engine light and yesterday it started bogging around 4k rpm and shuts off randomly
03 Yukon xl 1500 (vin z) stutters around 4k rpm and randomly shuts off
- Thread starter Jsmarr123
- Start date
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Tahoe14
Full Access Member
@Doubeleive may be able to help
need to get it scanned and see what the check engine light is all about
typical thing that can cause a unexplained shut off is low fuel pressure
typical thing that can cause a unexplained shut off is low fuel pressure
It said primary dtc was p0178, had secondary dtc for p0102 so I replaced the maf sensor it was a Chinese knockoff with no brand, may try replacing the flex fuel sensor tomorrow after verifying voltage on the harness
a fuel pressure tester is about $30 at harbor freight, just a fyi
and a bad flex fuel sensor could cause unexpected stalls also, so you might be on track already
Thank you I’ll check fuel pressure and voltages tomorrow before replacing because it’s 350$ at the store, I’m out of town working and have no time to wait on stuff, thank you. Is it possible I messed something up when cutting the radio harness? Because everything worked fine before, maybe it’ll just turn out to be an expensive lesson
no telling, I guess it depends on what got cut and if the battery was connected at the time
I would guess a used sensor would be cheaper than $350 that's a bit of a ouch for something that doesn't fail all that often
Cut the whole aftermarket harness at once with battery connected, took out the gmos-04 interface and the swc interface but I couldn’t tell anything else it may have gotten too, everything bcm related appears to function perfectly fine, thinking I just got bad luck, purchased for 1600 with “173k miles” turns out computer says it has 261k miles
lol that's funny I went and looked at one for sale one time and the cluster was burnt out and the guy said it has like 160k on it, connected my tech2 and went into the cluster and it said like 360k haha, but in the guys defense he was selling it lean sale from a tow yard so he was just guessing....
I don't think there is any wiring correlation from the radio to the flex fuel sensor, but when you cut wires on the lan bus with the battery connected it's never a good idea.
I would take the time and get a meter and check each and every fuse.
I would take the time and get a meter and check each and every fuse.
Update, it shut off again today I smacked the fuel tank hard and since has run fine since. Ordered new fuel pump
If you haven't been able to look at the fuel pump you may want to have a new lock ring on hand to have when you replace the pump.
Ok thank you, I’ll check into that, going to cut a hole in the floor I’m out of town working and don’t think the hotel would appreciate me dropping a tank in the parking lot also it would be quite challenging by myself
I don't have time right now to write out the whole story - but I had a similar problem with my 2003 Suburban 2500. All sorts of codes , fuel pump, cam position sensor, crank position sensor, ignition codes, engine shutting off - the whole thing.
First problem I found was that mice had gotten into the wiring directly under the fuse box in the engine compartment. I had at least 4 wires completely severed and 10 more that were showing bare copper. Spent a Sunday carefully soldering and heat shrinking the wires back together to fix that problem. That still didn't stop the codes though. I kept getting them. I had a sneaking suspicion that the ECM (engine computer) was bad , but had a number of people tell me "they don't go bad" - so I kept discounting that gut feeling.
After a couple of months of screwing with it - I finally replaced the ECM with an exchange unit - and that finally fixed the problem.
I would also add - the problem on my truck appeared to be due to heat as it would run for a short time really well when the engine compartment was cold. As soon as things heated up - that's when the trouble started.
You sound like you might have a similar problem - what with a whole bunch of different codes showing.
Just my 2 cents.........
First problem I found was that mice had gotten into the wiring directly under the fuse box in the engine compartment. I had at least 4 wires completely severed and 10 more that were showing bare copper. Spent a Sunday carefully soldering and heat shrinking the wires back together to fix that problem. That still didn't stop the codes though. I kept getting them. I had a sneaking suspicion that the ECM (engine computer) was bad , but had a number of people tell me "they don't go bad" - so I kept discounting that gut feeling.
After a couple of months of screwing with it - I finally replaced the ECM with an exchange unit - and that finally fixed the problem.
I would also add - the problem on my truck appeared to be due to heat as it would run for a short time really well when the engine compartment was cold. As soon as things heated up - that's when the trouble started.
You sound like you might have a similar problem - what with a whole bunch of different codes showing.
Just my 2 cents.........
Dropping the tank is easy - I did it on my Suburban and it was way easier than I imagined it would be. Just make sure to somehow drain as much gas out of the tank as possible. If it was me I would not cut a hole in the floor.
