0W-20 to 0W-40?

[jyi786]

Given that there is a massive recall on the L87 engine, GM has been informing customers that have had their engines replaced to change their oil every 3,000 miles, and switch to 0W-40.

I've been changing oil every 5,000 miles on my 2019 Escalade, which has the L86, with the factory 0W-20. It still has the AFM, and running strong for 150K miles. Any advantage in switching to 0W-40? I'm already going to be getting a BTDieselworks Autosync to disable AFM.

 

[Marky Dissod]

For seriously cold winters I'd recommend 0W30 or 0W40.
For the rest of the year 5W30 or 5W40.

Select motor oils that are recommended for GM's L8T 6.6L gas V8, and/or the 'vette.

 

[Geotrash]

Given that there is a massive recall on the L87 engine, GM has been informing customers that have had their engines replaced to change their oil every 3,000 miles, and switch to 10W-40.

I've been changing oil every 5,000 miles on my 2019 Escalade, which has the L86. It still has the AFM, and running strong for 150K miles. Any advantage in switching to 10W-40? I'm already going to be getting a BTDieselworks Autosync to disable AFM.

I think the factory spec oil is 0W-20, yes? On the earlier 6.2's like mine it was 5w-30 and as far as I know the main, rod and cam bearing clearance specs haven't changed between the LS and LT motors.

Some guys here, including me, run 5W-40 Euro-spec oil in their 6.2's. I changed to it on the recommendation of a cam designer when I did my cam swap in my 2012. So far, so good, and I have put maybe 25K on it since then - with many of those towing heavy in the hot summer. That said, I still run the 5W-30 DexOS oil in my unmodified 2007 6.2.

 

[GMCChevy]

You mean 0W-40?
It looks like you've been doing good with what you're already doing and a year that still had good engines.

 

[jyi786]

Yeah my bad: 0W-40. Gonna update the OP so no one is confused.

 

[jyi786]

You mean 0W-40?
It looks like you've been doing good with what you're already doing and a year that still had good engines.

Oh gotcha. I guess this is the keyword: L86 vs. L87. L87 is the one that was recalled.

So L86 is considered "good"? In that it won't catastrophically fail for no reason like the L87?

 

[15burban]

The problem with 0w40 is it is such a wide viscosity range and most 0w40s will shear down to a 30 weight oil. Some within 1000-2000 miles. The closer the numbers are the more shear stable it is, in most oils.

I'd go with 5w30 if I was in your shoes. If it's parked outside and gets below zero in the winter then possibly 0w30 just for the winter months.

 

[DontTaseMeBro]

Speaking of 5W-30, what’s the hives recommendation on which brand to use? I see that Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 is Dexos 1 approved, running $27 for a 5 quart jug currently on Amazon.

 

[Geotrash]

Speaking of 5W-30, what’s the hives recommendation on which brand to use? I see that Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 is Dexos 1 approved, running $27 for a 5 quart jug currently on Amazon.

For 5w-30, I run Pennzoil Platinum. For 5w-40, I run Amazon's Euro oil. I do 3K-5K mile oil changes, depending on duty cycle.

 

[Marky Dissod]

'Dexos' has something important in common with 'kosher':
without a 'blessing' from GM / a rebbe (both which must be paid for),
it COULD be Dexos / kosher, but no one would get to know that it is.

I've a great deal of trouble imagining a GroupIV fully lab-synthesized synthetic motor oil
made to ILSAC GF6A (NOT 6B) and API SP standards would be in any way a bad idea
for any LT1, LT2, LT4, LT5, or L8T.
Since any ILSAC GF6A / API SP 5W30 eventually gets beaten and changed by fuel into more of a 5W20 anyway,
and so many European versions of engines use 5W30 instead of 5W20 except in America,
I see no reason to specifically fear the lack of 'Dexos' on any bottle of ILSAC GF6A / API SP motor oil.