0W-20 to 0W-40?

[jyi786]

Given that there is a massive recall on the L87 engine, GM has been informing customers that have had their engines replaced to change their oil every 3,000 miles, and switch to 0W-40.

I've been changing oil every 5,000 miles on my 2019 Escalade, which has the L86, with the factory 0W-20. It still has the AFM, and running strong for 150K miles. Any advantage in switching to 0W-40? I'm already going to be getting a BTDieselworks Autosync to disable AFM.

 

[Marky Dissod]

For seriously cold winters I'd recommend 0W30 or 0W40.
For the rest of the year 5W30 or 5W40.

Select motor oils that are recommended for GM's L8T 6.6L gas V8, and/or the 'vette.

 

[Geotrash]

Given that there is a massive recall on the L87 engine, GM has been informing customers that have had their engines replaced to change their oil every 3,000 miles, and switch to 10W-40.

I've been changing oil every 5,000 miles on my 2019 Escalade, which has the L86. It still has the AFM, and running strong for 150K miles. Any advantage in switching to 10W-40? I'm already going to be getting a BTDieselworks Autosync to disable AFM.

I think the factory spec oil is 0W-20, yes? On the earlier 6.2's like mine it was 5w-30 and as far as I know the main, rod and cam bearing clearance specs haven't changed between the LS and LT motors.

Some guys here, including me, run 5W-40 Euro-spec oil in their 6.2's. I changed to it on the recommendation of a cam designer when I did my cam swap in my 2012. So far, so good, and I have put maybe 25K on it since then - with many of those towing heavy in the hot summer. That said, I still run the 5W-30 DexOS oil in my unmodified 2007 6.2.

 

[GMCChevy]

You mean 0W-40?
It looks like you've been doing good with what you're already doing and a year that still had good engines.

 

[jyi786]

Yeah my bad: 0W-40. Gonna update the OP so no one is confused.

 

[jyi786]

You mean 0W-40?
It looks like you've been doing good with what you're already doing and a year that still had good engines.

Oh gotcha. I guess this is the keyword: L86 vs. L87. L87 is the one that was recalled.

So L86 is considered "good"? In that it won't catastrophically fail for no reason like the L87?

 

[15burban]

The problem with 0w40 is it is such a wide viscosity range and most 0w40s will shear down to a 30 weight oil. Some within 1000-2000 miles. The closer the numbers are the more shear stable it is, in most oils.

I'd go with 5w30 if I was in your shoes. If it's parked outside and gets below zero in the winter then possibly 0w30 just for the winter months.

 

[DontTaseMeBro]

Speaking of 5W-30, what’s the hives recommendation on which brand to use? I see that Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 is Dexos 1 approved, running $27 for a 5 quart jug currently on Amazon.

 

[Geotrash]

Speaking of 5W-30, what’s the hives recommendation on which brand to use? I see that Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 is Dexos 1 approved, running $27 for a 5 quart jug currently on Amazon.

For 5w-30, I run Pennzoil Platinum. For 5w-40, I run Amazon's Euro oil. I do 3K-5K mile oil changes, depending on duty cycle.

 

[Marky Dissod]

'Dexos' has something important in common with 'kosher':
without a 'blessing' from GM / a rebbe (both which must be paid for),
it COULD be Dexos / kosher, but no one would get to know that it is.

I've a great deal of trouble imagining a GroupIV fully lab-synthesized synthetic motor oil
made to ILSAC GF6A (NOT 6B) and API SP standards would be in any way a bad idea
for any LT1, LT2, LT4, LT5, or L8T.
Since any ILSAC GF6A / API SP 5W30 eventually gets beaten and changed by fuel into more of a 5W20 anyway,
and so many European versions of engines use 5W30 instead of 5W20 except in America,
I see no reason to specifically fear the lack of 'Dexos' on any bottle of ILSAC GF6A / API SP motor oil.

 

[TheBigCheezeBall]

2017 Tahoe LT 5.3

So I took the plunge today and used 5W30 (Mobil 1). I was always a bit suspect of the thin oi (0W20), and with everything coming out related to the recall on the newer trucks it pushed me over the edge. It might be my imagination, but so far it seems like there has been a remarkable reduction in engine "noise". Not sure how I would have described it previously, but "chatter" might be the best way to put it. There was also always (since brand new) a rhythmic "click" or "tick" (kind of like the lifter noise, but not nearly as loud), and that is now gone. It will be interesting to see if it stays like this until the next oil change in 3K miles.

Not sure if I will go to 0W40 / 0W30 / or stay with 5W30 for the winter. I live in a mild climate and the Tahoe is always garaged with the exception of a Thanksgiving trip to Kansas City. I have some time to decide though.

 

[jyi786]

2017 Tahoe LT 5.3

So I took the plunge today and used 5W30 (Mobil 1). I was always a bit suspect of the thin oi (0W20), and with everything coming out related to the recall on the newer trucks it pushed me over the edge. It might be my imagination, but so far it seems like there has been a remarkable reduction in engine "noise". Not sure how I would have described it previously, but "chatter" might be the best way to put it. There was also always (since brand new) a rhythmic "click" or "tick" (kind of like the lifter noise, but not nearly as loud), and that is now gone. It will be interesting to see if it stays like this until the next oil change in 3K miles.

Not sure if I will go to 0W40 / 0W30 / or stay with 5W30 for the winter. I live in a mild climate and the Tahoe is always garaged with the exception of a Thanksgiving trip to Kansas City. I have some time to decide though.

Thanks for being the guinea pig for us. I will certainly be watching this very closely to see how things pan out for you. Really thinking about switching, but I might want to do it along with disabling the AFM.

 

[TheBigCheezeBall]

Thanks for being the guinea pig for us. I will certainly be watching this very closely to see how things pan out for you. Really thinking about switching, but I might want to do it along with disabling the AFM.

For what its worth, I disabled the AFM about 6 months ago via HP tuners while I was doing other preventative transmission service (along with disabling the TCC in 1-4 / zeroing out slip). Can't recommend that enough.

 

[2017sltXL]

Thanks for being the guinea pig for us. I will certainly be watching this very closely to see how things pan out for you. Really thinking about switching, but I might want to do it along with disabling the AFM.

People over think the whole switching to a heavier oil thing. Why one would run 0W20 in this engine or any newer 5.3 or 6.2 is beyond me. GM runs this weight in an effort to eeek out another .2 of a mpg thanks to the standards suggested by the EPA. Stick a good 5W30 in it and be done with it.
Mobil 1 ESP is a favorite for many, myself included, which is actually rated for diesel engines and slightly better for your cats. IIRC it was actually developed for Mercedes diesel engine specs.
It's closer to a 5W40 but technically not, and has some mild ester properties, which many know is a desirable trait in any oil.

Direct Injection is harder on engine oil and dilutes it over time. 0W20, by the time is has some miles on, probably shears down to a 10W oil...not good for this engine.
For people that don't run a catch can, it's been shown to slightly reduce deposits on the intake valves.

 

[TheBigCheezeBall]

So far so good with the 5W30 (Mobil 1). It might be my imagination, but it seems to really run much quieter. I will say that the fuel economy decrease was more than I expected. My non scientific testing seems to indicate about a 10% drop in economy. Take that FWIW (probably not much). Personally I am happy to drop 10% fuel economy if it reduces my chance of an engine rebuild.

 

[jyi786]

So far so good with the 5W30 (Mobil 1). It might be my imagination, but it seems to really run much quieter. I will say that the fuel economy decrease was more than I expected. My non scientific testing seems to indicate about a 10% drop in economy. Take that FWIW (probably not much). Personally I am happy to drop 10% fuel economy if it reduces my chance of an engine rebuild.

Same. I switched to Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 my last oil change and the truck runs quieter and smoother. Will be sticking with it from now on.

 

[Basecamp]

Given that there is a massive recall on the L87 engine, GM has been informing customers that have had their engines replaced to change their oil every 3,000 miles, and switch to 0W-40.

I've been changing oil every 5,000 miles on my 2019 Escalade, which has the L86, with the factory 0W-20. It still has the AFM, and running strong for 150K miles. Any advantage in switching to 0W-40? I'm already going to be getting a BTDieselworks Autosync to disable AFM.

Wondering about that too…my 2018 has the L83. I’m already doing embarrassingly paranoid interval oil changes with M1 0w20. The recall not only changes the in-scope trucks to 40 weight but specifically uses M1 Supercar… my L83 isn’t high compression like the 6.2, but if it’s better for the L87…maybe better for others too? It’s only a few bucks more…

 

[Marky Dissod]

Wondering about that too…my 2018 has the L83. I’m already doing embarrassingly paranoid interval oil changes with M1 0w20.
The recall not only changes the in-scope trucks to 40 weight but specifically uses M1 Supercar ...
my L83 isn’t high compression like the 6.2L, but if it’s better for the L87 ... maybe better for others too? It’s only a few bucks more…

Split the difference and use whatever Group4 synthetic motor oil you'd feel comfortable using in a 6.6L L8T.

 

[noodlesandsam2]

I am glad that I am not in that movie. Just my 2 cents voting for Mobil-1 products. I run 5/30 or 5/40 year round. and have since 2002 on the first truck. I've used Mobil-1 overall since about 1990 - anyone remember round cans that needed a spout?

 

[West 1]

In my 2003 5.3L I ran 5-30W in the winters with zero issue. At the Summit above Lake Tahoe, this truck saw many mornings at near 0* temps. Start up oil pressure was always good. No concerns. In the Summer months this same truck did lots of towing so I ran 5-40W for the extra bearing protection while towing in 100* temps. This truck did not have an engine oil cooler and even with the 5-40 summer oil at times I saw the oil pressure drop 5-10 psi from the heat while towing . I was towing over 7,500 pounds in 100* heat which was more than I should have with the 03 Yukon 5.3L. I know it is rated for more but it was certainly at the limit and the oil pressure drop showed that. Sure glad it did not have 0-20w in it at the time!