chauncey0337
Full Access Member
I have no idea if this might help but do some research on a latch relay. I was reading about it and thought it might be worth looking into.
03 tahoe LED dome light
- Thread starter angel.arteaga
- Start date
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thanks for all the info, and yes, the way things go with me, im sure it could only be me and you w/ the problem. ha ha ha ..
if you would like me to try something out, let me know, i have a spare i can hack up.
Latch relay, just in general or like our hatch relay.
maybe angel or chris know better.
Rivieraracing
Full Access Member
Did you ever check the trigger voltage Angel?
chauncey0337
Full Access Member
A latching relay has two relaxed states (bistable). These are also called "impulse", "keep", or "stay" relays. When the current is switched off, the relay remains in its last state. This is achieved with a solenoid operating a ratchet and cam mechanism, or by having two opposing coils with an over-center spring or permanent magnet to hold the armature and contacts in position while the coil is relaxed, or with a remanent core. In the ratchet and cam example, the first pulse to the coil turns the relay on and the second pulse turns it off. In the two coil example, a pulse to one coil turns the relay on and a pulse to the opposite coil turns the relay off. This type of relay has the advantage that one coil consumes power only for an instant, while it is being switched, and the relay contacts retain this setting across a power outage. A remanent core latching relay requires a current pulse of opposite polarity to make it change state.
Rivieraracing
Full Access Member
Can either Angel or Mike let me know what relay you are using, whether brand and/or specs of it would be useful!! I think I know what relay you need to be using but curious on what you guys have now to compare it to! I also think I have figured out how to prevent that 'sleep mode' which you guys may not like too much!! lol
---------- Post added at 07:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:46 AM ----------
Also, if one of you could let me know what the voltage is at one of the sockets when the buzzing starts to when the buzzing stops (the range of voltage), that would be helpful as well!!
---------- Post added at 07:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:46 AM ----------
Also, if one of you could let me know what the voltage is at one of the sockets when the buzzing starts to when the buzzing stops (the range of voltage), that would be helpful as well!!
Can either Angel or Mike let me know what relay you are using, whether brand and/or specs of it would be useful!! I think I know what relay you need to be using but curious on what you guys have now to compare it to! I also think I have figured out how to prevent that 'sleep mode' which you guys may not like too much!! lol
---------- Post added at 07:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:46 AM ----------
Also, if one of you could let me know what the voltage is at one of the sockets when the buzzing starts to when the buzzing stops (the range of voltage), that would be helpful as well!!
Impatient are we? lol j/k
I may have time this weekend to help you out. but for relay, im using just a regular ol relay. I have a bunch at home, from my radio bypass, that i can try. But they are basically all the same. I'll see if i can find a relay on mine, as you know where i got it at. yes the sleep mode could be more silent.
Will try to let you know everything i can, this weekend, if i can. I'll text you with it.
OP
OP
angel.arteaga
Member
sorry bout the wait riviera racing, im using a regular SPDT (Single Pole Double Through) Relay. I think the brand is bosch but not sure. Tahoewhat should be using the same relay. And please let us know bout that solution you found for the "sleep mode" thing. I have just been lazy on bring that roof console back down to retest the voltages. LOL. but ill overcome my laziness and do it tonight.
Rivieraracing
Full Access Member
No problem at all, just trying to help while my thoughts on the matter are fresh, spent over an hour yesterday morning searching the net for ideas and different relays!! lol
As for checking the voltage, you shouldn't have to drop the console to check them. Just get the relay to "sleep" which will cause the lights to run dim, then check one of the dim light sockets at that time and that should give you the voltage reading for that!! Then get the relay to "wake up" which will make the lights bright again and check that voltage at the same socket. Then last but not least, while checking the voltage at that socket, could you get me the voltage for when the relay makes the buzzing noise!
So, get the voltage at these conditions:
-Voltage in relay "sleep" mode (dim lights)
-Voltage in relay "awake" mode (bright lights with the relay help)
-Voltage when relay buzzing starts and ends
Remember, all of this can be at a socket that is affected by the relay help, whether a bulb is in the socket or not!
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Well also, when you say dim lights, its not really dim lights. Its only the light that has the relay on it. For example, when you open the doors to get in, if its asleep, that one light only will be dim. But if you close the door and lights go off, then push the button on another light, it will be dim, but when you push the light that has the relay on it, it comes back on full brightness, all of them do when pushed manually from that point on. But not sure why it goes to sleep.
Im sure you may of known this, just wanted to reiterate it all.
Im sure you may of known this, just wanted to reiterate it all.
I have the exact same issue with the full interior kit from HIDGUY.
They work fine on door lock and unlock. But when used manually, they are super DIMM and or wont even turn one.
PRIOR to buying the full LED interior kit from HIDGUY, I had 2 of these LED lights that I found at pepboys. They were 20 bucks each, so thats why I bought the full kit from HIDGUY.
Anyways, HID GUYs dont work, but the 2 I had from pepboys DO work, just fine!
They are a universal kit that comes with these adapters to fit different socket types. I assume the adapters cause enough draw to make the lights work properly.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_...AAAAAAHMM/dC1WG-CLQeI/IMG_20110316_210609.jpg
Just an FYI.
---------- Post added at 10:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:34 AM ----------
^^^ And for some reason, my vanity mirror STOCK bulbs dont work anymore ever since I installed hid guy interior lights.
They work fine on door lock and unlock. But when used manually, they are super DIMM and or wont even turn one.
PRIOR to buying the full LED interior kit from HIDGUY, I had 2 of these LED lights that I found at pepboys. They were 20 bucks each, so thats why I bought the full kit from HIDGUY.
Anyways, HID GUYs dont work, but the 2 I had from pepboys DO work, just fine!
They are a universal kit that comes with these adapters to fit different socket types. I assume the adapters cause enough draw to make the lights work properly.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_...AAAAAAHMM/dC1WG-CLQeI/IMG_20110316_210609.jpg
Just an FYI.
---------- Post added at 10:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:34 AM ----------
^^^ And for some reason, my vanity mirror STOCK bulbs dont work anymore ever since I installed hid guy interior lights.
chauncey0337
Full Access Member
So, do you guys think this is happening because the leds don't draw enough current?
BillBlatt18
Full Access Member
In this case I believe it is because they draw too much
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Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
i have no idea why this happens. But the relay does fix it, just has a noise when the relay is dimming with the lights. So maybe drains the voltage too slow for the relay to just shut off. ( or basically has enough power to keeep the relay on, but just kills it slowly, hence the buzzing noise.)
But how about another relay, like the one under our hood, like the ones for the headlights or such. The smaller relays. Do you think this would work w/o the buzzing. Its a smaller relay. If anyone looks, its the gray ones, like if your doing the 4 hi mod, those relays.
Chris ? (
But how about another relay, like the one under our hood, like the ones for the headlights or such. The smaller relays. Do you think this would work w/o the buzzing. Its a smaller relay. If anyone looks, its the gray ones, like if your doing the 4 hi mod, those relays.
Chris ? (
Rivieraracing
Full Access Member
If you get a chance Mike, post up a pic of the relay you are currently using for your setup so I know exactly what you are working with now!! If I can't find a better relay for your setup, you could always just relocate the relay you are using to either in the engine compartment or somewhere away from the drivers seat to hide the noise! Just an idea!!
Will do, its just a regular relay. And relocating it, means running extra long wires, im done w/ the wire running. lol.
chauncey0337
Full Access Member
Does anybody know if you get this voltage drop with the incandescent bulbs too?
---------- Post added at 06:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:29 PM ----------
Not sure if this would work but what if you splice into the wire that feeds 12v to the dimmer and use that to feed the domes? Wouldn't that give you constant 12v when you push the dome switches? I would try it but mines a 2000.
---------- Post added at 06:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:29 PM ----------
Not sure if this would work but what if you splice into the wire that feeds 12v to the dimmer and use that to feed the domes? Wouldn't that give you constant 12v when you push the dome switches? I would try it but mines a 2000.
Well, im not sure i understand what your saying, but if im thinking correct, your saying move the wire 12v to the relay? so the dome doesnt go to sleep?
(sorry not all that electrical)
chauncey0337
Full Access Member
Maybe I'm not totally understanding the problem. So, the power feeding the domes drops to 8v when dome switches are pushed. What if you get rid of the relay and feed the domes with a constant 12v in addition to the original power.
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Rivieraracing
Full Access Member
I'm thinking you don't even need the relay, all you would need to do is run a separate 12v wire and a diode to each light at their switch (on the backside of the switch) and that would solve your guys problems with the manual switch dimming problem!! My map lights would never come on with the doors open so I ran a power wire from another light that came on when the door opened and put a diode on it to prevent backfeed and that solved my problem!! I'm thinking that would be the ticket for you guys, you should be able to ditch the relay all together!
chauncey0337
Full Access Member
That's pretty much what I was trying to say except I didn't think about the diode part. Though they might need to keep the original power wire so the domes come on when doors open.
