Job is done. This took extremely longer than the Gen IV delete I did about a year ago. Didn’t help that it was 90+ degrees out with 100% humidity (versus Colorado last year). A lot of the time wasted was dealing with the snapped timing chain tensioner debacle and then I stupidly forgot to...
How did your warranty experience with RockAuto go? I have warrantied smaller items from the Rock before and it was easy. I’m curious how such a monstrosity like a loaded strut assembly works out.
Well, I watched a YT video of this guy who insists he’s done a ton of these Gen V AFM delete jobs and mentioned it isn’t uncommon to break that tensioner when trying to lock it back. He said I could pull the oil pump forward and carefully remove the tensioner assembly bolts. They are M8 flange...
I probably just install the new OE pump as I have it in-hand. Well, looks like the #4 exhaust lifter broke into pieces. The #6 exhaust lifter is ground down flat. 2-4-8 rollers are smooth. 1-3-5-7 rollers have small groves.
Well this sucks. Just snapped the plastic timing chain tensioner. Not...
Gathered most of the items. The Gates branded coolant all-in-one pump assembly was damaged in shipping so I sent that back. Realized that the 6.2 has longer pushrods so I ordered some up. The photo is about 3.5 hrs into the job.
Tomorrow I’ll get much more done so long that it doesn’t rain...
Went with the Scoggin-Dickey stock-spec cam for $309 shipped, Michigan Motorsports Delphi LS7 lifters trays and pushrods for $234 on Amazon, and RockAuto FTW. Tried to get as many OE parts I could find. Glad to see that there are many Genuine GM (versus ACDelco aftermarket) still available...
I just looked them up and wow $33 shipping! Right now I'm looking at the Scoggin Dickey SDR29512 "stock" AFM delete cam. I see that Melling makes these; I wouldn't doubt that these (Texas, Michigan Motorsports, and SDParts) are all Mellings. I'm apprehensive about buying a "kit" as they are...
Just picked up a ‘17 Esky ESV lux with a bent #4 pushrod for a VERY good price. Noise isn’t terrible and was able to drive it up and down a car hauler. I’m DIY and just did this job on my ‘08 Sierra (as preventative maintenance). Got lucky with finding a new Comp Cam XFI for $100 from FBM for...
I had a carbide one laying in my toolbox and used that one with my Dremel. It is cone shaped. Just take your time and have a firm grip on the tool and light fixture.
I was worried about this failing again that’s why I covered the repair with a small piece of electrical tape and globbed Dynaflex sealant over it. Definitely waterproof and able to handle four seasons. Plus I can scrap it off if I run into issues again (like me repairing this repair). Seems like...
Anyone have a better version? I found this one on eBay (I paid for it). Some of these digital eBay versions are better than others. This one doesn't have actual bookmarked links and kind of sucks.
**edit** I found out that the bookmarks does work; I just had to click on it on the left side of...
I should note that I covered the exposed area with black electrical tape before globbing it with Dynaflex sealant (auto parts store had just closed and I didn’t want to dig out the RTV).
Just did this tonight. I pulled the drivers side unit and it appears to have already have had a repair that failed. Seems like you have to either jump it with a wire or use a much more rigid jumper than just soldering the cracks. I suppose globbing the hell out if it with solder would work.
I...
The installation was very easy and comes with OEM style connectors. The can size isn’t large at all though. If you live in an area that doesn’t have many fridges cold days then this might due. But I cannot emphasize enough that if you’re in the cold great white north then get a quality kit with...
Yeah the amount of condensation isn’t unique to my vehicle either; I have a ‘09 Tahoe that outputs cups of water on a regular basis during the winter months (separate thread here https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/catch-can.132368/).
IIRC, UPR wants a small fortune to upgrade the cup size...
After installing UPR’s $135 catch can kit into my ‘15 XL 5.3, I started to get sick of draining this thing so frequently. In fact, every time I do it I discover that the little cup is nearly full. I live in central WI so it is cold here and I get a ton of condensation. Many threads in this forum...
I’m assuming it is a real good thing that these cans are extracting the moisture from the crankcase? I know airplane guys run dehumidifiers (basically fish tank pumps that push air thru desiccant) in order to preserve their motors from corroding during non-flying time.
I really wonder if I could just drill & tap the bottom of the cup (probably install a quick disconnect nipple) and have that connect with a hose to a bigger simple container that can sit on the battery box. Like a gallon of milk or Amsoil 4qt jug. These catch cans are in vacuum, correct? If so...
This is the first time I’ve checked the new catch can in my 2015 Yukon XL 5.3. It’s FULL after about 1000 miles! Lol. I’m going to mod this like the one in my ‘09 to have a dump valve on the bottom. Unscrewing this was a hot mess. It’s easier to just turn a valve and drain into a cup.
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