Good call. Most likely you can do the spindle swap. It’s a little time consuming but not that difficult. The lowering spindle keeps all of your geometry the same so it’s a good way to go.
The ride was equally amazing on a ‘23 Sierra Denali I had. It’s way beyond magnetic ride. Same here too, wish I’d kept it but the camper my wife wanted was too heavy for it so I got a 2500.
For 3” up front I’d recommend the 2”drop spindles and the other inch from your struts or springs. You can get close to 3” from just spindles by attaching the strut below spindle but I’ve heard thats hard to align. More folks with PPV will chime in.
Most likely the seat up provides enough dude to side motion to where it rattles.It needs to go back to them. Never assume the dealer took the time to diagnose the problem, like a faulty nut underneath that the bracket bolts too. Otherwise you’re stuck putting duct tape around the offending...
If your state requires emissions testing you’ll find out then. If it doesn’t you still are taking a chance. The innards coming loose won’t help and you’ll keep getting CELs. Chances are it’s just one converter, I’m guessing upstream. Climb under and give all of them a shake. Some salvage yards...
No clue on the clunk if you’re hearing it while stopped. Only thing I can think of back there is your rear AC condenser. For the leaking air you have a shock going down or a leaking fitting. The pump should only run a few seconds when key is on. Climb under and look for cracks in the rear shocks.
I’d think you’d get better resale with the original system working. You can get passive shocks for the rear on Rocksuto or the GMPARTSDIRECT. To save some money on the fronts you can get just struts and swap the springs. Arnott has several options too. Double check your rpo codes to make sure...
You can pull the fuse for the compressor or remove it. To remove it disconnect the hoses, just follow from the compressor or the T that’s near the axle then back off the 2 nuts that hold the compressor bracket in place. One of them is through a hole so you’ll need a deep socket.
The 10 speed in the 2500 gas Sierra is amazing doing what it’s designed to do, work and tow. My TT weighs 8000 dry and it feels like there’s nothing back there except when I have to get gas every 400 miles!
From what I understand a short disconnection is ok. Have you considered pulling the fuse instead? There’s also a factory reset option in your infotainment system. I’m not sure if it resets homelink but I set up mine to operate the garage doors when I’m close by from there.
Does it do this no matter how high or low the tilt is adjusted? Take the lower cover off and you may see something has fallen in there or the motor or gear came loose.
Yeah, you’re right. People just plain drive more these days. Unfortunately the manufacturers still keep the warranty at 10-12k miles per year. I wasnt questioning yours, just a general question. I just bought a ‘25 Sierra 2500 and even those only come with a 12k miles per year average for the...
I always wonder what folks do to put on roughly 50-55k miles per year. I’m old enough to remember you never bought a car with 100k miles. It used to be the car outlasted the drivetrain. Now it’s the opposite.
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