I ordered the trakmotive ones as Napa had a 20% off and free shipping deal going.
Arrived last night. I’m going to try to install Saturday or Sunday
I’ll take some measurements and see how their extended dimensions work out compared to oem ones.
Anyone know who sells heim outer tie rods?
I can only find the whole inner and outer kits. But I’m trying to keep a fused link in between the knuckle and steering rack
I’m only at about .5” over a stock suburban. My front brake lines and abs wires have tons of slack.
My rear brake lines are at max safe. But I don’t want that to go any higher back there. I have plenty of travel.
But yea. The lwb does not do well with tight turns.
You can always see if wams...
I have extended travel shocks. Not a huge amount. But it requires unbolting/loosening the cv nut on the knuckle
Abs line and brake line are fine. It needed high angle ball joint upper control arms.
They are 19.5” extended and 4.9” travel.
Fox makes a 20.5” ext 5.3” travel and I believe kings...
Not sure if those will fit a 1500
But my real concern is that it would make the joint angle worse. The trackmotive use a higher angle joint and it also keeps the joints spread to minimize angle at full droop
I need to go a little taller on my 2015i gmc Yukon xl.
I’ve noticed the cv axle is what is current limiting any additional droop or lift.
I need to raise the vehicle about 1.25” to get it level. (Z71 suburban height level)
So longer cv axles is what is needed so I can utilize the whole shock...
Old springs… I’ll get the photo with the new ones tomorrow. I also need to swap the springs on the coilovers and lift the front a little to get close to a level
We installed a RTT on our Yukon xl Denali that was running the border patrol spec rear springs. Rated at 225# rate iirc.
The dobinsons c09-045 are 245# I think… and just a hair longer. Like maybe 1/3 inch.
It lifted the rear 2/3” and tightened the rear up greatly. No more packing on the rear...
Can you measure from the center of your wheel to the fender lip so we can compare to stock and other springs?
This way of measuring eliminates tire size differences
My stock rear arms on my 2015 are toast.
Everyone says the spohn stuff fails too quick.
The Apoc stuff looks great but I worry it won’t allow full articulation.
What are people using for off-road that allow full articulation?
Did these work?
I need new arms and was looking at the apoc ones, but they use 91 durometer bushings front and rear and I’m worried they will impede articulation offroad
I just ordered that other starter last night. Amazon
Said it will be here today. Im
Going to take pics of the housing differences and I’ll post them up here.
oem starter seemed to be going out so I checked ac delco, and a couple dealership online parts companies for the correct starter. All came up with
12736813 Starter
for a new starter.
Trying to get it installed. But it wont seem to fit. It is a little different than the oem one. The "hood"...
21.25 front
23.5 rear
Z71 rear springs and current ads coilovers at 2.7” shaft showing. (600 springs on coilobers)
I’m waiting on new shocks and stiffer front springs that are a little more travel and taller to lift the front to level it.
Ah yea. Agreed.
We use the “suburban” for our family camping vehicle when we take our two Dogue de Bordeaux’s and the two kids.
The dogs take up the whole rear of the suburban, and we tow a small offroad “utility” trailer. Or we will conquer and divide and I’ll take the trx as well.
I have...
There is more to it than just that.
For instance having a larger piston means larger diameter shims. . And less pressure to bend a shim. So better shimcontrolled tuning on chatter.
But yes, it takes more tuning for a daily driver 3.0 since it’s harder to get to a certain oil temp.
But high...
I think there is a way to run a dod delete and Turning it off on the ecm.
And as long as they don’t do a ecm tune comparison then I’d be good.
My luck is that I’d get a random star inspection and have to have my ecu compared. And then I’d be screwed.
I hate this state.
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