Doesn't the door latch also control if the BCM sees the door as open or closed? I'm not 100% on this but could it be a latch issue? If this has been covered then my apoligies.
Here's a couple vids on the 6L80 from siu automotive, I have been following this channel since I found a few vids on rebuilding my first rear axle. He explains and teaches in such a way it just draws you in as he gets into the roots of what's going on.
Given the scope of this thread, it really...
It would read more air but at a lower throttle position. I'm not sure where the TPS comes into play with regards to line pressure, etc over other sensors like MAP and MAF. The Impala had a noticeable change in trans behavior with the unmetered air removed.
Funny you mention that...I was looking into mine to what seemed like a slightly longer 1-2 shift 2 days ago....likely not what you are experiencing but I was thinking on using HPT to modify it.
I changed my trans fluid and filter on Sunday, with the intake boot off, I cleaned the MAF meter...
Do you still have your old plug wires? If so, I would swap them for a test.
FWIW, I did the good house brand wires at the parts store with the OE plugs, I ended up replacing those with OE wires about a year later. Not sure if it was a rough idle or fuel trims but all was good afterwards.
The reviews are biased towards positive, some say it's sketchy..but curious to your thoughts on it as far as stability.
The thick plywood is a good idea, thanks. Was that the scissor jack or the 800# model?
The scisssor jack I can use for other projects, and looks to tuck away nicely.
To play it safe, I hooked a hose up to the line that enters the top of the radiator, and also a hose coupler for the port in the radiator.
The fluid exited the top port of the radiator.
The fluid is darker than I expected but does not smell burnt in any way...still not a welcoming sight.
Thanks, I appreciate that
I did reach out to a few shops and I'm looking at $1500 just to R&R the converter and that's me providing the converter. Bringing the rebuilt transfer case makes sense but man, maybe I'm out of the loop but $1500 seems steep for that amount of labor just to pull the...
What did you do and use for this 'double flush"
So what I have gathered is you did cold starts then idle as this has been pointed out as one likely cause. With the "flush" did you use solvents? Perhaps the odor is from first the fuel dilution from the cold starts, then from any residual odor of...
Slightly long-winded but....I have been wanting to do this for a while, at least a year. I have a spare front diff in the vehicle now and want to rebuild my OE front diff, I also have a spare transfer case I want to rebuild before swapping into the Yukon and when I do rebuild the transfer case...
This is something that I've always noticed after the 1-2 shift, it's like it's waiting for an invitation to get back under power...lol. Reducing this without any further clutch wear would be great but I can see it's likely more of a "blanket policy" to allow for varying conditiouns of "health"...
Same...it was almost 50K ago and I'm overdue for at least a pan drop. I believe it was the top line but I wanted to be sure before I spray fluid everywhere...lol.
I think it was the upper line that I attacked a hose to.
Are you by chance referring to my reply and not the OP? If so, I wanted to let the OP know I had a code for a resistance issue and was for the circuit in my clockspring...but turned out to be a loose pin/socket in that yellow connector. Thank you for the info though if that was for me.
Interesting thread as I have been waiting to mess with my vehicle...but hesitant on doing anything trans related. Definitely sounds like the shifts are quicker.
With that being said, does changing the TM put more wear on the clutches? I believe this would be different in say like a 4L60E when...
Before I make a mess, i forgot which cooler line at the radiator is in and out. I assume it enters through the bottom of the radiator and leaves through the top?
For those last voltage tests, I initially left the NEG probe on the bare ring terminal, removed from stud, but I also noticed that and tried again to the metal behind the dash and was the same results. Since you asked, I went out and put the NEG probe on the battery NEG and the results were the...
Just to rule out the module in the LR of the cargo area for the park sensors, I disconnected all the conections and no change.
I did remove the RF ring terminal at G200 and measured the resistance to the black wire at the overhead console and I had 650K ohms but when I pressed a map light...
Batteries are fresh, I have a 2nd meter that reads similar. The ground wires from starting at the ring terminal don't go directly up the A-pillar, they go down under the dash. Perhaps the ground is controlled through the BCM? This weekend I am going to trace the wires from the BCM.
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