Replaced my rear main seal with Fel-pro bs 40640 rear seal with dorman cover. No leaks from the back so far but I do have a leak from the timing cover area thats dripping down on the rack and pinion..how hard is the front timing cover seal...is it removing the water pump and harmonic balancer?
defintely was but after a while youll get use to it. Now I need to extract the threads from the torque converter. tried using my heat gun and a pair of pliers it still didnt bulge. Tomorrow im going to try a torch, or have someone weld a nut on to it or drill thru it with the smallest bit possible
the guy who did the welding used a stick welder
the bolts have been removed before. when reassembled the first time they went in easy I was thinking I used too much loc tite..the other 2 bolts the threadlocker was hard as cement
was able to remove the welding the guy did plus a little more of the bolt using air die grinder I have about an half inch left. didnt get to use the expensive hf burrs..just using some stones my dad brought over. I should have the bolt grinded down in the next day or so.
what type of cutting wheel do yall recommend to cut the torque converter bolt using air die grinder?
Also picked up the set of 2" genuine solid carbide burrs for 75.00 looking for a cheaper burr or cutting wheel that will do the job
got all bolts removed damn trans seems to be stuck..ill give it another try tomorrow..once I pull the trans im going to try to grind the bolt head off if that fails probably end up cutting the torque converter
The welder was able to weld the hex key to it but it ended up snapping once I started applying pressure.
I went ahead and removed the transfer case and got all the bolts to the transmission removed except the top 1
Exactly what im looking for this will be my 2nd option. what type of attachments are those?
I found a mobile welder near me thats suppose to stop by and see if he can weld a nut onto it.
Last time I removed the tc bolts they came out pretty easy with impact. when I reinstalled I used probably too much locktite.. If you was to use a torch would you heat it thru the tc access hole or the starter location??
I was thinking of heating the bolt with torch then using bolt extractor...
I forgot all about that locking tool.
The GripEdge is very expensive. Not really trying to have the truck down that long.
I have a extractor socket set that I can hammer on to it ill use this as a last resort.
the head of the bolt is rounded the socket fits on the head but slips with impact. tried the allen key its starting to round too...
any good way to lock the engine i want to try breaker bar
Im doing a rear main seal replacement on my 08 z71 again. Everything was going smoothly to I got to the torque converter bolts. I got 2 of them out but the 3rd started to strip and even the hex key is started to strip as well. Anyone have any suggestion or methods to get this bastard out?
In the next week or so ill be changing out my rear main seal again . Dorman rear main cover is coming off and I remembered the dorman rms kit came with bigger bolts. The rear main seal kit ill be using this time is FEL-PRO BS40640 which comes with the housing gasket and rear main seal. With the...
If you aint got the dough like me wrapping the seatbelt around the steering wheel will work :).
I found some plywood wood laying around im constructing some toe in plates at this moment. Just need to cut a little notch for the tape measures. Hopefully they will work lol
I should of been done this after I installing my Detriot axle rack and pinion installing the tie rods by counting the threads was a nightmare and had my truck dog walking the tires. Didnt think the alignment shop would alignment my truck with a damaged control arm so I Replaced my driver side...
make sure to use alignment tool on the rear cover. some alignment tools require you to mount the rear cover without the seal in place, insert the alignment tool then torque rear cover then install rear seal
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