There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

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GMT800 2005 Tahoe Z71
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The work went as planned. The engine air filter had some pine needles and straw on it and in the air box and because of the MAF sensor location, had to remove the air box top for access and the cowling was fun to deal with, but doable. The cabin air filter was easy enough and filthy. Last oil change done at dealer, left 3 clips off that holds the undercarriage shield, that has to be removed for filter access. I replaced from an assortment that I keep handy. Cleaned the front of the throttle while it was exposed. under hood and under carriage inspection showed no problems. Shouldn't because it has 27k miles on it. 5.1 quarts of 0w-20 Valvoline full synthetic oil and a Wix XP filter. Reset oil change reminder and installed a sticker on the w/s.

If anyone knows of anyone that owns one of these gen Pathfinders, with the 3.5 engine, that oil dipstick location is a huge PITA. There is a "V" shaped metal guide pad that aligns the end of dipstick with the hole and the upper hard part of the dipstick has a 45 degree bend to allow clearance. You have to look hard for a chance to see the hole the stick goes in.

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Horse1955

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So, Thursday, my A/L deceased friend's wife is bringing her 2005 Tahoe LS to see me about the driver's floor getting wet. It is water and not coolant. Clogged condensation drain? I very much doubt it with the weather around here and nothing but heater and defrost on for short drives. Gonna be in the 70's here for about 5 days. She is gonna stuff some paper towels at bottom of w/s at dash area, all across, and also under dash area, all across. I told her to also put some at front of driver's door seal and at the door/floor area. Then she is gonna sit out and drink beer and spray the water like a rain. Then she will check and tell me what area towels get wet at. She has no sun roof. I will check the w/s, the firewall grommets and the door seal areas. I also recently did the cowling vent removal, clean up and reinstall and reseal. This thread at #1049 thru #1052.

I did a search here and read about the usual suspects: firewall grommets, w/s, door seal and there was one about the leak being found a reference about a water leak found at the driver's fender and wiper tray area? Can someone share some thoughts about all this, before Thursday?
I have been fighting that fight for a year... looked into the condensation drains and fire wall leaks and door seals up to and including changing the windshield and resealing every thing on the roof.... I pulled up the carpet and sprayed water on the truck and nothing.... But it was wet after a short drive.... What I found was that there is a seam under the brake pedal across the floor.... A friend and body man from the 70s told me the best sealant to fix the floor is roofing tar and 40 weight sandpaper... So I covered the seam all the way across with the tar and lo and behold the floor is dry and staying that way... All the time spent trying to find out where the water was coming from above only to find that it was coming from below.....
 
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I have been fighting that fight for a year... looked into the condensation drains and fire wall leaks and door seals up to and including changing the windshield and resealing every thing on the roof.... I pulled up the carpet and sprayed water on the truck and nothing.... But it was wet after a short drive.... What I found was that there is a seam under the brake pedal across the floor.... A friend and body man from the 70s told me the best sealant to fix the floor is roofing tar and 40 weight sandpaper... So I covered the seam all the way across with the tar and lo and behold the floor is dry and staying that way... All the time spent trying to find out where the water was coming from above only to find that it was coming from below.....
Thank you for the info. I was supposed to have looked at it and she got sick and has not gotten back to me. I know she is still around because I hear from other members.

When you say "wet after a short drive", do you mean when raining or streets are wet? Or even in dry conditions?????
 
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I also belong to GMT Nation and there are some very knowledgeable people there and this whole thread shows how important clean/tight grounds are.
 
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Ongoing 2 piece driveshaft problems on a neighbors 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 crew cab 5.7 gas engine. Not to long ago the carrier bearing came completely apart but the shop that did that work did not look too close at the u-joints. The center joint is trashed. Makes sense since that is the one right at the carrier bearing. Took the driveshaft assembly out after staking/indexing the joints. Driveline company doing all 3 joints tomorrow after I drop the assembly off at 8 a.m. My neighbor needs his truck. This is the same truck I put the steering linkage assembly in along with a shimmy shock. I had told him a while back that I could hear a U-joint squeak and he said the carrier bearing mechanic did not say anything so it must be good.

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A local automotive instructor at a local junior/community college, has reached out to me about my tools. Apparently he heard of what my plans are for "full' retirement and selling my tools. I will have to ask how he "heard". Don't know what he has to say but am meeting him on Tuesday.
 
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I have these tools for sale at CL and FB. Not the extension or the breaker bar, just the flex head metric ratchets. Only used 2 of them twice and are like new. Mac Tool used to sell them for $570 and I have them listed for $400 Or Best Offer. They work like new. Comes with the metal magnetic rack. The little towers they set on are adjustable and able to be locked down. I really don't want to ship them.

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homesick

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A local automotive instructor at a local junior/community college, has reached out to me about my tools. Apparently he heard of what my plans are for "full' retirement and selling my tools. I will have to ask how he "heard". Don't know what he has to say but am meeting him on Tuesday.

Maybe you could do a tool 'reverse mortgage'. He starts paying now and gets the tools later.

joe
 
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Maybe you could do a tool 'reverse mortgage'. He starts paying now and gets the tools later.

joe
Yea, I don't know if he wants them for the school or himself or for a promising student(s) to purchase. One thing for sure, not gonna be cheap.

I see guys/girls selling, quote unquote, complete sets of tools with lots of glorious words of how much the sets are worth and they are never organized and are trashed and incomplete and way over valued.

I will not, I repeat will not, sell the tools separately, except for what I just listed.

My complete set is for a person going in to it for a career and having what she/he needs, except for what a shop would supply. I even have a roll around shop battery charger and a 3 ton floor jack. I have 2 of the 3 ton jacks but keeping one for myself. My tools will keep a person off the tool trucks.
 

LsHart

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So for those that have seen or read about my work trucks that are 2023s one has a blown and or bad head and the other has bad electronic steering that's going bad. What's yalls opinion on buying them? Because I turn wrenches I see potential.
 

LsHart

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The blown long wheel base 2.4 turbo has head problems but the other has a good motor but short wheel base with bad electronic steering.
 

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