2001 Tahoe, Cranks no start, no spark - SOLVED

jfoj · Saturday at 4:24 PM

I think these chassis also had problematic ignition switches as well.

My 2005 almost always cranks no start on the first attempt, this is common problem that shows up later in life, initially it begins about every 10-20 start attempt, then finally gets to the 50/50 situation. Always starts on 2nd crank attempt if it does not start on first attempt. Many owners have replaced everything known to many and never figure out. I believe it is a problem with the key detection. On a 20+ year old truck/SUV a resistor is fine IMHO if it works.

Firebirdracer82 · Saturday at 4:36 PM

I finally found my code reader. It appears I have two stored codes for crankshaft position sensor circuit. P0335. I may go pick one up and try to replace that this evening.

Fless · Saturday at 4:38 PM

jfoj said:
I think these chassis also had problematic ignition switches as well.

My 2005 almost always cranks no start on the first attempt, this is common problem that shows up later in life, initially it begins about every 10-20 start attempt, then finally gets to the 50/50 situation. Always starts on 2nd crank attempt if it does not start on first attempt. Many owners have replaced everything known to many and never figure out. I believe it is a problem with the key detection. On a 20+ year old truck/SUV a resistor is fine IMHO if it works.

The crank-no-start then, on 2nd try, crank-start condition could be a missing cam signal, or the crank-cam correlation is off. A successful CASE relearn would rule that out as the cause. Obviously fuel pressure leakdown is another that could be in play, among others.

jfoj · Saturday at 4:44 PM

Fless said:
The crank-no-start then, on 2nd try, crank-start condition could be a missing cam signal, or the crank-cam correlation is off. A successful CASE relearn would rule that out as the cause. Obviously fuel pressure leakdown could also be in play.

This is a pretty well known problem in the 1999-2005 GM Truck/SUV world. I did some research and some people have replaced everything under the sun. Seems the 50/50 crank but no start will go on for a LONG time. I have been too lazy to really dig into it. May get into once I get some things done on the 2024 Yukon.

I know if is not fuel pressure leak down. And I am pretty sure cam and crank sensors are not the problem. As mentioned, I did a lot of research and decided if it ever hard fails, I will be able to find the exact problem pretty quickly!

viven44 · Saturday at 4:44 PM

jfoj said:
I think these chassis also had problematic ignition switches as well.

Yep an ignition switch could do that.... there are a number of circuits that are typically getting power from the ignition switch.

A few months ago, my 78 quit in the middle of the road on the way back from work. No spark. Swapped with a cheap spark ignition module, no bueno, and my suspicion was the ignition module wasn't getting power so I used a piece of rope to keep the choke open, and used the 12V from the electric choke to get back home, lol.. when I got back home, I found that an old redneck crimp splice on the ignition switch harness wires going to the module had broken from years of vibrations/fatigue....

@Firebirdracer82 I think your approach is methodical and correct. Definitely check for 12V with key in run as well... You might want to get a cheap $25 scan tool on Amazon and see if there are any codes. Sadly, even by the late 90s/early 2000s there are a bazillion things that need to work in order to get spark at the right time.... sometimes you can get lucky and a code may be set that can help you get to the problem quicker.

Update: Nevermind I just saw you pulled up codes... good luck !

viven44 · Saturday at 5:01 PM

Fless said:
A successful CASE relearn would rule that out as the cause.

This comment made me go back and look at the other 2021+ post ... and even found the that this case involved the elusive P0016 code involved in the recent 6.2 recalls. Small world.

Engine shuts off while driving

So, just after 2 hour drive, approaching my parking my engine just shuts off, and i get a message saying restart engine. I go to restart it but it cranks and doesnt start. While waiting for the tow truck, about an hour and a half later the car starts up just fine. I drive around for a but and it...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Firebirdracer82 · Saturday at 5:01 PM

viven44 said:
Yep an ignition switch could do that.... there are a number of circuits that are typically getting power from the ignition switch.

A few months ago, my 78 quit in the middle of the road on the way back from work. No spark. Swapped with a cheap spark ignition module, no bueno, and my suspicion was the ignition module wasn't getting power so I used a piece of rope to keep the choke open, and used the 12V from the electric choke to get back home, lol.. when I got back home, I found that an old redneck crimp splice on the ignition switch harness wires going to the module had broken from years of vibrations/fatigue....

@Firebirdracer82 I think your approach is methodical and correct. Definitely check for 12V with key in run as well... You might want to get a cheap $25 scan tool on Amazon and see if there are any codes. Sadly, even by the late 90s/early 2000s there are a bazillion things that need to work in order to get spark at the right time.... sometimes you can get lucky and a code may be set that can help you get to the problem quicker.

Update: Nevermind I just saw you pulled up codes... good luck !

I’ll hopefully update tomorrow if the part comes in. Normally would use AC delco but went with the next day TRQ option. I wish it was in a more easily accessible place.

Fless · 2025-05-04T13:15:17-0400

Firebirdracer82 said:
I’ll hopefully update tomorrow if the part comes in. Normally would use AC delco but went with the next day TRQ option. I wish it was in a more easily accessible place.

Consider doing the CASE relearn after replacing either sensor. Even if the engine runs decently, a mis-correlation between the two can cause random misfires (P0300). It's a quick and easy process once the engine is at operating temp.

Firebirdracer82 · 2025-05-04T16:37:02-0400

Well, I promised I would update land the crank shaft position sensor fixed it for the moment! I just drove it 40 miles and running well. I may have it taken to someone with the scan tool to do the relearn process, but for the moment I want to also make sure I get the 26 gallons of gas it’s been sitting with for the past year out of it.

Thanks for all the help everyone!

2001 Tahoe, Cranks no start, no spark - SOLVED

jfoj

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Firebirdracer82

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Fless

jfoj

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viven44

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viven44

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Engine shuts off while driving

Firebirdracer82

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Fless

Firebirdracer82

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