Guessing will get you nowhere. Check fuel pressure first.
Of course we have no idea of the condition of this vehicle or how well maintained it is. Unplugging things will just set codes and break connectors.
A hack if a vehicle quits and you don't hear the pump run...have someone cycle the key while you whack on the tank or skidplate. Sometimes the vibration is enough to get the pump to run enough to get home. Same principal as whacking a starter when it won't run. It jars the armature/brushes...
Need first to listen if the pump cycles on when you turn the key to the on position. If it does the next step is a fuel pressure test. If it doesn't then the next step is to check the wiring/relay and the trigger for the relay.
I don't understand problems people have with brakes on these vehicles. I was a dealer tech when they were new, worked on a lot at my own shop and own a few and have done a lot of brake work over the years. I've never had a problem bleeding them no different then I did on 1960's and 70's...
Turn the key on and push buttons and listen for the sound of it engaging/disengaging. Put the shifter in neutral and roll the truck a little. If no sound put it in park and have someone push the buttons and tap LIGHTLY on the motor and listen. I don't think a scanner will activate the transfer...
The blue and orange are most likely the power and brake signal leads for the trailer connector. Blue would go to a brake controller if you install one and the orange to the fuse block stud for aux power. Be sure it's fused.
!997 Tahoe when my valve leaked I installed it in the garbage can and just ran 2 heater hoses, AC works fine. My PU never had a valve and AC works fine. If you're worried about max AC put a manual valve inline and shut the water in the summer.
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