FWIW my Tahoe has the differential gear noise also. It did have bad bearings so when I pulled it apart I replaced every bearing and seal, gear noise is still there. If I get excited I might buy a set of gears but for now it's fine. You've got a few years on me and I think about how the heck I'm...
From my experience front sensors build up rust under them. removing the sensors and cleaning the mounts does the trick sometimes. Front hubs are the other problem as the bearings wear there is play causing erratic readings between the wheels causing the ABS to react. Never replaced a module for...
Guessing will get you nowhere. Check fuel pressure first.
Of course we have no idea of the condition of this vehicle or how well maintained it is. Unplugging things will just set codes and break connectors.
A hack if a vehicle quits and you don't hear the pump run...have someone cycle the key while you whack on the tank or skidplate. Sometimes the vibration is enough to get the pump to run enough to get home. Same principal as whacking a starter when it won't run. It jars the armature/brushes...
Need first to listen if the pump cycles on when you turn the key to the on position. If it does the next step is a fuel pressure test. If it doesn't then the next step is to check the wiring/relay and the trigger for the relay.
I don't understand problems people have with brakes on these vehicles. I was a dealer tech when they were new, worked on a lot at my own shop and own a few and have done a lot of brake work over the years. I've never had a problem bleeding them no different then I did on 1960's and 70's...
Turn the key on and push buttons and listen for the sound of it engaging/disengaging. Put the shifter in neutral and roll the truck a little. If no sound put it in park and have someone push the buttons and tap LIGHTLY on the motor and listen. I don't think a scanner will activate the transfer...
The blue and orange are most likely the power and brake signal leads for the trailer connector. Blue would go to a brake controller if you install one and the orange to the fuse block stud for aux power. Be sure it's fused.
!997 Tahoe when my valve leaked I installed it in the garbage can and just ran 2 heater hoses, AC works fine. My PU never had a valve and AC works fine. If you're worried about max AC put a manual valve inline and shut the water in the summer.
We could all guess all day long, not going to fix anything. Or you could start with some simple diagnosis when it doesn't start. Of course we all assume it's a low mileage well maintained truck that has no pre-existing conditions and no codes stored. I'd start with a spark test and fuel pressure...
From your diagnosis I'd say it's time to drop the tank and have a look see. I'm old and have CRS but I do remember a tank I dropped had a plastic baffle come loose in the tank, can't remember if it was a Tahoe or a PU. I can't remember if those tanks have a baffle, do you know if the tank has...
Pull the block plugs and drain everything. Use whatever cheap antifreeze you want after that. I've been using whatever is cheapest at Walmart for decades with no problems.
Before doing all of this did you pressure check and make sure you don't have any leaks before starting.
All of these trucks are usually pretty worn out by now. Have to start with the very basics. Valves wear, valve guides wear and valve springs break, along with cylinder wear. These engines were set up very loose from the factory, very common to have piston knock on a cold engine.
Compression test? Pull distributor and look at the gear, probably just as well to replace the distributor if it's plastic and an ear is stripped like most.
We're dealing with 30 yo dinosaurs that weigh 2 tons+ with big tires and 4wd in most cases.
On these old Vortecs I'd say one thing few check or adjust is the distributor offset and replacing the distributor gear or the whole worn out plastic distributor.
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