Pull the plugs, the one that is clean is the cylinder or cylinders with the problem. Steam is a great spark plug cleaner. Do a compression test and or do a coolant system pressure test. While the coolant system is under pressure and the plugs are out have someone turn the engine over with the...
Before the paper clip test try a test light and see if there is any power at the connector. The blower doing the sometimes thing leads me to believe the connector on the HVAC control might be melted, common problem.
Something is bad broke or worn, should be obvious and don't drive like that. From the tires and stance I'm guessing 4wd, front suspension is different 2wd to 4wd. Does look like upper control arm problem. Do the jack test, I use a block of wood for a fulcrum and push down on a big pry bar...
How old are the cat converters? These systems are old and react differently. I removed the cats on my 98 K2500 and the O2 sensors are there but it never sets a code.
World's worst taillight design! Do you have a test light? Get a good ground, might have to run a wire from the battery back to your test light. Start probing to see if you're getting power. If you have power then hook the test light clip to power and check for grounds.
I have a 98 K2500 5.7L ECLB, been a good truck. It has the 9.5" with C clips and 13" drum brakes. I don't live in flatland and pull a 28' enclosed race trailer around the mountains with it. I did the NBS master cylinder swap and it improved my brake feel a lot. Otherwise my truck is completely...
I'm in for using a scan tool to get a better temp reading. 26yo dash gauge might be a little inaccurate, they are more of an indicator than a gauge. I've replaced a lot of those radiators and used all different brands and didn't have any problems or modifications necessary.
When replacing an engine it should include a lot of other associated parts which really runs the costs up beyond the cost of the engine. Radiator condition is important and replacement might be needed. All belts hoses filters water pump thermostat etc. should be replaced. It adds up fast!
The ones I've done when TCC engages depending on throttle position it will feel like another gear that softly engages. It's noticeable on the tach and if you lightly touch the brake pedal enough to turn the brake lights on you can see it disengage, let off of the brake and it will come back on...
New you'll have to look at GM engines. Jegs and Summit used to have good prices on them along with Scoggins-Dickey Chevrolet.
Don't know your situation but if you have a good machine shop locally you might want to try your hand at rebuilding what you have. It's a lot of work if you do it right...
The electrical activators, especially the originals were prone to failure. Jack the frt. up with the 4wd engaged and spin the wheels by hand and see if anything feels odd.
I guess it's got some miles on it. Common for all of those parts to be worn on these trucks with some miles on them. Upper control arm bushings are also common, have someone look at them. Check the front drive axle CV joints
Top of compressor is the clutch wires. Back of the compressor should be high pressure cutoff switch that provides ground. All of this from memory so it comes with a disclaimer.
Not a good way to respond to a forum post of someone experienced trying to help. Many of us have decades of experience working on vehicles as our living. We're glad to share info but really don't need remarks like this.
While you're working on the brakes, I would replace all of the springs and the wheel cylinders, it's a 25yo vehicle. Take a good look at all of the brake lines, they are very prone to rust failure.
On SBC engines you can prime the oil system with an oil primer that goes in place of the distributor and you spin it with a drill. Or you can use a pressure tank and plumb it in through the oil pressure sensor. If you remove the distributor be sure to mark it's position and the position of the...
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