Death Of A 4L60

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Nickleahy23

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not a bad deal at all..i got mine built for like 2100..5 pinion front and rear, all upgraded sprag and clutches, shift kit, reinstall vette servo, etc..and i threw in my yank tt3000 stall with it..been happy for 2 years with it..i was gonna order online as well, but for that price, y go through the trouble of doing it yourself..plus if something goes wrong, they are there to help you locally
 

arctic388

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i used Monster trans and havent had any issues. if i'm not mistaken cost me 1300 for trans and 200 for fluid and cooler package. and my shop charged 250 for labor and tow to them. i havent had any issues with mine and had great service when buying it.
 

Nickleahy23

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something like that..you can run a Trailblazer stall for a higher then stock without spending the coin, or step up to something from yank or circle D..I wouldnt go much higher then 3k though with the tahoe being heavy..my city mpg did suffer from it, but its well worth it when you get on the gas..cruising on the interstate is the same as before, and towing is better..invest in a trucool 40k cooler and you are set..my temps get a little high in the summer with my stock cooler, i just havent gotten around to swapping them
 

retorq

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I would get a cooler and big deep finned trans pan. I would also do a shift kit and Vette servo.
 
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BattelWagun

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As of now, I'm just getting it rebuilt stock (with the beefed up internals). I will, however, be doing the better servo, aluminum pistons, vette servo, new trans cooler, and pan once the weather changes. I honestly don't know how much that little stock cooler can actually do.

And thanks for mentioning the 40K Nick, that thing's a monster!
 

Nickleahy23

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my stock cooler, if im just driving normal, it keeps it aruond 170-180, which is good..but if i have the air on, or im towing something when its warm out, im at about 200-210..never really had it above that though, so it works...with the 40k people rarely see temps over 170 from what ive heard..gotta be careful with them in the winter so the trans actually gets up to operating temps
 
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BattelWagun

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my stock cooler, if im just driving normal, it keeps it aruond 170-180, which is good..but if i have the air on, or im towing something when its warm out, im at about 200-210..never really had it above that though, so it works...with the 40k people rarely see temps over 170 from what ive heard..gotta be careful with them in the winter so the trans actually gets up to operating temps

I was just thinking about that... I could simply bypass it in the winter, I rarely tow more than about 700lbs in the winter months. This rebuild has got me thinking about a trans temp gauge anyways. Ive wanted to get a triple a-pillar mount with trans temp, oil temp, and a sideband AF for a while now.
 

retorq

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That is why you keep the liquid to liquid cooler in the radiator hooked up ... in the winter it will warm the trans fluid quicker. If you have a bigger stall convertor you won't have an issue getting the fluid up to temp though ...
 

BigDaddy13440

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That is why you keep the liquid to liquid cooler in the radiator hooked up ... in the winter it will warm the trans fluid quicker. If you have a bigger stall convertor you won't have an issue getting the fluid up to temp though ...

You guys just answered my next question in my thread before I asked it.

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37113

I would assume with the thermostat being stuck open, the coolant never gets anywhere near the ideal operating temp... and in turn, the tranny fluid doesn't heat up either? That might explain why I'm not getting very good mileage, as it's not locking into OD for extended periods of time.
 

Nickleahy23

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if tranny fluid is to cold tranny lock-up or OD will get locked out by pcm. I forgot which one at the moment.

the way mine is tuned..it wont lock or shift out of 2nd until higher rpm..when i leave the house on a cold morning, it stays in 2nd until 30-35 at a gentle throttle to warm things up, i hit the tow/haul which is tuned for the trans and it shifts..just a precaution built in i guess
 
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BattelWagun

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Mine simply won't shift into 4th/ OD while everything is in open loop. All shift points from 1-2 and 2-3 remain the same though.
 
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BattelWagun

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Well, I finally got it back yesterday! Its shifts like its brand new! They were a little firm at first, but now after 60 miles or so everything is smoothing out. I'm very satisfied with the job. Everything came out to be $1800, $900 of which was parts, also had the t-case inspected cleaned and refilled.
 

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