Fuse Questions - Subs

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sparg93

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My Amp: Kenwood - XR-1S

My understanding is that it draws 60A max.

I'm running a fused distribution block that splits 1/0g into x2 4g wires and then to the amp - which fuse should I go with for the distribution block (amp rating)?

This is the distribution block so I will purchase two fuses:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17487_StreetWires-FBXS024.html

My alternator runs at 130amps, is 150A fuse appropriate for the 1/0g running into the distribution block? Is 150A good for the Big 3?

Thanks!

Any other fuses that I should need?

I'm running a simple setup of x1 Amp to x2 10" subs.

Thanks!
 
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sparg93

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I purchased 80A fuses for the distribution block..is this correct, or should I have gone with 60A?
 
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sparg93

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I'm not really strong in electrical, so please bear with these questions.

What are some of the reasons a fuse would pop?

Why is it better to go with a fuse that is rated just slightly higher then what the alternator produces? Would it better to go with a 200A in case the alt spikes? (is it even possible for the alt to spike)
 

tsarms

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yes wires can short out and the fuses are there to protect. They are cheap insureance
 

raptorforme93

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If you ground out a live power wire or something like that then the fuse will pop so that the wire will then no longer be live. Great for preventing fires. haha
 

fyremanpat

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Yea 80's will work fine. If your alt jumps to 200 amps youve got a lot more to worry about then replacing fuses.haha...
 
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sparg93

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thanks guys, much appreciated.

I'll take some photos of the build...very excited to put my first system in.
 

SunlitComet

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I personally would have matched 60a to the the amp and 120 amp fuse to draw from your 130 alt. The idea is to protect them and your wiring from overloading past ther limit not give them the capacity to drive it over. That is like putting a 20 continous amps breaker on a wire rated for 15 continous amps purposely letting it exceed it design. In the event you do draw 150 amps from the alternator and the existing fuse lets it happen you can kiss it good bye and maybe start a fire if poorly designed. Keep in mind that the xr-1s is a class d amp so you can use a good quality 6ga or even 8ga feed on it and still have power capacity to spare. A 8ga is typically rated for 100 continous amps. Well in excess of the 60amps that sub amp uses if even driven to a continous 600 watts output at 4 ohms.
 
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sparg93

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I was just thinking about it...

Do I even need a fuse on my 1/0g that runs from the battery to the distribution block?

The distribution block has x2 60A fuses in it and my 1/0g is rated for 300A...since the max my amp can pull through the wires is 60A, is there any need to put an inline fuse on the 1/0g?
 

SunlitComet

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Mainly awire from your battery could break or rub thru insulation. It should have a fuse as close to the battery as possible or there would be no short protection between the battery and the block. I am assuming your block is a good distance from the battery. If the block has fused outputs an is very nearby(like a foot) with very good wire protection around so that there is no way it can rub against something else I would probably for go it. Otherwise use it.
 

BigDaddy13440

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I was just thinking about it...

Do I even need a fuse on my 1/0g that runs from the battery to the distribution block?

The distribution block has x2 60A fuses in it and my 1/0g is rated for 300A...since the max my amp can pull through the wires is 60A, is there any need to put an inline fuse on the 1/0g?

IASCA rules stipulate the main power lines must be fused within 18" of the battery, regardless of the size wire and/or amp draw.

I'm only running 3 amps in my system, each has its own fuses (20a, 30a and 2x30a). At the distribution block, each 4ga power feed is fused with a 60a fuse.
And, at the very front, the 1/0 power wire to the Distro block is fused with a 200a fuse, approximately 12" from the battery.
 

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