Weird AC problem. 2010 Yukon *SOLVED*

[opfor2]

Yep, i had a single low pressure gauge from years ago and that kept saying it was good. So i ordered the 3 way set and dumped 2.5 cans into it. Now i got ac

2.5 cans of R134a is a lot of refrigerant to lose. You need to check your system for a leak.

 

[rdezs]

While 2.5 lb is a lot to lose, any amount of loss means you have a leak that needs to be taken care of. My wife's 2014 Escalade at 175,000 miles has never needed the AC serviced. I finally had to do the 2003 Hummer H2 last year at 112,000 miles, turned out it was the compressor shaft leaking.

AC systems are actually quite simple and easy to repair. Parts are quite affordable. (The price of the r134a is my only complaint) If you have a leak, eventually you'll end up spending more on the refrigerant than what it would cost to repair.

 

[Sir_Hiro]

2.5 cans of R134a is a lot of refrigerant to lose. You need to check your system for a leak.

While 2.5 lb is a lot to lose, any amount of loss means you have a leak that needs to be taken care of. My wife's 2014 Escalade at 175,000 miles has never needed the AC serviced. I finally had to do the 2003 Hummer H2 last year at 112,000 miles, turned out it was the compressor shaft leaking.

AC systems are actually quite simple and easy to repair. Parts are quite affordable. (The price of the r134a is my only complaint) If you have a leak, eventually you'll end up spending more on the refrigerant than what it would cost to repair.

If I didnt have a bunch of trips coming up planned for the yukon. I could do a more indepth check. I know I am pissing money into the wind with the leak but as long as the AC works for the next 2 months I can look into it more in the fall.

 

[rdezs]

A very common leak point that will take you 10 seconds to check. Take the high and low pressure valve caps off. Put a drop or two of John liquid dish soap on, filling the hole. Bubbles obviously means you have a leak with the valve cores. (Which might only need to be tightened a little bit) You can use the same dish soap on the connections to identify a leak pretty quick. It's the same way you check natural gas lines. Pretty much a zero cost and minimal time check the most common sources of leaks.

PS: the brand of dish soap to use is whichever one your wife uses in the kitchen, LOL. Just don't get caught taking off with it

 

[Sir_Hiro]

A very common leak point that will take you 10 seconds to check. Take the high and low pressure valve caps off. Put a drop or two of John liquid dish soap on, filling the hole. Bubbles obviously means you have a leak with the valve cores. (Which might only need to be tightened a little bit) You can use the same dish soap on the connections to identify a leak pretty quick. It's the same way you check natural gas lines. Pretty much a zero cost and minimal time check the most common sources of leaks.

PS: the brand of dish soap to use is whichever one your wife uses in the kitchen, LOL. Just don't get caught taking off with it

I have Dawn in the garage in a spray bottle

 

[alvocado]

Adding on here since I'm experiencing poor cooling as of Monday. Truck cooled great on an 8 hour drive Sunday. The following day, the cabin would not cool on a short drive, did better on the return trip over 20 mins but still not very cold. The refrigerant line going into the firewall is very cold with condensation on it and the clutch is engaged with the compressor running. Temps at the dash vents don't drop below 65 degrees and rear vents hover around 74 degrees with the A/C on full cold. I can feel intermittent colder air out of the dash then it gets slightly warmer.

Question: with both front and rear not cooling, is the blend actuator at play (the one near the drivers side vs. the individual actuators for driver and passenger vents)? I know that primary blend actuator is a little tough to access and I'm not clear how to test it. I have the full auto with auxiliary rear HVAC.

I don't have gauges and will need to grab some from the Oreilly's loaner inventory if that's a next step after ruling out the blend actuator.

 

[rdezs]

It very well could be. For the AC in the front. But the AC in the back has its own blower fan and heater core..... That would lead me to think your low on refrigerant since it's blowing warm also.