Help! Need new sway bar and axle on lifted truck.

[YanaCakes]

I have a 2012 Hoe with a 3.5" RC lift. The truck is 4WD without air suspension. The sway bar bracket rusted off the frame (the frame looks good underneath bracket). I am going to get a new bracket welded (unless you know of other options) and replace the sway bar links. One of my axles is also spewing grease and needs to be replaced. Can I go with OEM options or should I do extended links and/or axles? Also, should I replace the sway bar? I cannot get a look at it because the truck is undercoated.

 

[wjburken]

I have a 2012 Hoe with a 3.5" RC lift. The truck is 4WD without air suspension. The sway bar bracket rusted off the frame (the frame looks good underneath bracket). I am going to get a new bracket welded (unless you know of other options) and replace the sway bar links. One of my axles is also spewing grease and needs to be replaced. Can I go with OEM options or should I do extended links and/or axles? Also, should I replace the sway bar? I cannot get a look at it because the truck is undercoated.

Before I welded to the frame, I’d try and drill out the sway bar bracket bolts. Had to do it on my 2007. Drilled it out and put a bolt with a nut back in to hold the brackets.

 

[mikez71]

Sounds like his bracket rusted off though.. Welding is the way afaik..

Had to nut one of my bolts too, I'm still pissed I drilled the broken bolt crooked!

 

[YanaCakes]

Before I welded to the frame, I’d try and drill out the sway bar bracket bolts. Had to do it on my 2007. Drilled it out and put a bolt with a nut back in to hold the brackets.

Thank you for that advice.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I had to drill out the bolts on my 07, but I was lucky, in that I drilled straight and preserved the threads in the frame. Then, I chased the threads to clean up and iron pieces from the drilling. I would recommend drilling versus welding, as there are maintenance/repair items where you will need to remove the sway bar, and you want that to be an easy process.

OEM parts are virtually always my recommendation, if you are replacing versus modding. RockAuto.com and GMPartsDirect.com are your best bets for OEM parts at reasonable prices.

If the sway bar is in good shape, there is no need to replace it. Just change the bracket bushings and the end link bushings.

 

[YanaCakes]

Before I welded to the frame, I’d try and drill out the sway bar bracket bolts. Had to do it on my 2007. Drilled it out and put a bolt with a nut back in to hold the brackets.

What bolts did you use?

 

[wjburken]

What bolts did you use?

If I recall correctly, they were 8mm (13mm wrench) in the highest grade available at my local farm and home store. I tried to use an extractor at first so I could chase the thread, but ended up having to drill things out and make them thru holes with a nut and washer on the back side.

 

[YanaCakes]

If I recall correctly, they were 8mm (13mm wrench) in the highest grade available at my local farm and home store. I tried to use an extractor at first so I could chase the thread, but ended up having to drill things out and make them thru holes with a nut and washer on the back side.

You had to use a longer bolt than the original, right?

 

[mikez71]

Looking at my left over hardware.. I ripped the bag apart for the nuts that show the size.. But I have 3 used swaybar bolts.
I believe I bought a new set of swaybar bolts.

So IIRC properly, you can use the originals. It just won't be as easy to start, you'll need to shove the clamp up there (might need to use a jack to compress the rubber bushing, mine were new) to get the threads started.

 

[wjburken]

You had to use a longer bolt than the original, right?

Depends - If you are able to extract the busted off part of the bolt, you can chase the threads and use the same length of bolt. If not and you need to make it a thru hole, then you will need a longer bolt. Keep in mind that on the back side of the frame it has an extruded portion that is threaded, it is not a captive nut, so you will need to account for that if you make it a thru hole.

 

[YanaCakes]

Depends - If you are able to extract the busted off part of the bolt, you can chase the threads and use the same length of bolt. If not and you need to make it a thru hole, then you will need a longer bolt. Keep in mind that on the back side of the frame it has an extruded portion that is threaded, it is not a captive nut, so you will need to account for that if you make it a thru hole.

Thank you!

 

[mikez71]

I used a stock bolt. (thru hole, behind captive nut, into new nut)
Just enough thread, so long as you can compress the swaybar bushing.
If you feel behind your mounted bolts, they should protrude past the captive nut about 1/2" IIRC..
And you can't go TOO much longer if I'm remembering right. Barely space to get the open end wrench in there.

 

[YanaCakes]

I used a stock bolt. (thru hole, behind captive nut, into new nut)
Just enough thread, so long as you can compress the swaybar bushing.
If you feel behind your mounted bolts, they should protrude past the captive nut about 1/2" IIRC..
And you can't go TOO much longer if I'm remembering right. Barely space to get the open end wrench in there.

Thank you so much, I am going to attempt it all next week. So many useful suggestions!

 

[YanaCakes]

Looking at my left over hardware.. I ripped the bag apart for the nuts that show the size.. But I have 3 used swaybar bolts.
I believe I bought a new set of swaybar bolts.

So IIRC properly, you can use the originals. It just won't be as easy to start, you'll need to shove the clamp up there (might need to use a jack to compress the rubber bushing, mine were new) to get the threads started.

Aah. ok, thank you for that and thank you so much for looking.

 

[YanaCakes]

Thank you so much everyone for your advice. I already have parts on order and I am going to work on it next week, using everyone's feedback. What do you all think about axles? My driver front is leaking and they're due. Can I go with OEM or do I need something different since it's lifted 3.5"?

 

[mikez71]

I heard a diff drop is desirable at that height, to help your cv joint angles.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Thank you so much everyone for your advice. I already have parts on order and I am going to work on it next week, using everyone's feedback. What do you all think about axles? My driver front is leaking and they're due. Can I go with OEM or do I need something different since it's lifted 3.5"?

@Trey Hardy may be able to provide you with some perspective on your question.

 

[YanaCakes]

I heard a diff drop is desirable at that height, to help your cv joint angles.

What does that entail, do you know?

 

[YanaCakes]

@Trey Hardy may be able to provide you with some perspective on your question.

Thank you! @Trey Hardy, I would really appreciate your help

 

[mikez71]

What does that entail, do you know?

I believe it's just a couple spacers that go between the diff and frame, which will lower the diff down some and relax the angle on your joints.
Couple of types.. Sorry I have no firsthand experience, but @Trey Hardy will know forsure.

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