Looking to level my Tahoe with Autoride

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fatmonk8

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Hey all,

A while back I replaced my front struts with some Rancho ones. (They were a better deal at the time, and stated they leveled the front and the ride stiffness is adjustable).

Well since installing then my truck has a bit of a rake. I am not sure if the rear is just sagging a little since those springs are still the original, or if the front struts actually lifted the truck higher then it stated it would.

I was looking at throwing some leveling blocks on the rear to level the back

I was looking at these. https://www.americantrucks.com/moto...ppc&T5_Var2=shopping&T5_Var3=red&gad_source=1

But they stat not for Autoride. Is lifting the rear with air ride going to damage or hurt it? Is there another option to level the rear with air ride?
 

Doubeleive

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I would think those would work but you would also need to either replace or adjust the ride height sensor rods, I doubt they have that much built in adjustment but they can be replaced with longer ones.
that's why they say "not for autoride"
normally that's the only thing stopping anyone from lifting or lowering, these company's are too lazy or don't want to deal with warranty/troubleshooting/technical support that may be associated with lift/lowering kits
 
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fatmonk8

fatmonk8

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I would think those would work but you would also need to either replace or adjust the ride height sensor rods, I doubt they have that much built in adjustment but they can be replaced with longer ones.
that's why they say "not for autoride"
normally that's the only thing stopping anyone from lifting or lowering, these company's are too lazy or don't want to deal with warranty/troubleshooting/technical support that may be associated with lift/lowering kits
Oh interesting, where would I find how to adjust the sensor rods?
 

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Oh interesting, where would I find how to adjust the sensor rods?
I would search this forum or google I know the thread pitch and size is posted on here somewhere, certainly multiple times over the years, I just don't have it memorized
 
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fatmonk8

fatmonk8

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I would search this forum or google I know the thread pitch and size is posted on here somewhere, certainly multiple times over the years, I just don't have it memorized
Thank you! I appreciate the help.
 

Doubeleive

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Thank you! I appreciate the help.
I see some for sale online for lowering but a quick search did not show any for lifting nor the size,
you could take one off, record the length as it is, then remove a end cap and match it up with some threaded rod at the hardware store.
then after you install the 1" adapters measure the difference and use the new rods to replace the originals. (cut to length) as needed, it shouldn't take much really
 
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fatmonk8

fatmonk8

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I see some for sale online for lowering but a quick search did not show any for lifting nor the size,
you could take one off, record the length as it is, then remove a end cap and match it up with some threaded rod at the hardware store.
then after you install the 1" adapters measure the difference and use the new rods to replace the originals. (cut to length) as needed, it shouldn't take much really
Guess I need to figure out where they even are first. I've never had to mess with them before. Are they easy to reach?
 

Rocket Man

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You should be able to get a 1/2” lift just by shortening the ride height sensor links by about 1/4”. That will trick the computer into thinking the truck has a bunch of weight on the back and it will add air to correct the squat. Be sure to check to be sure you’re still in the center-ish of the shock travel but it should be fine as long as you don’t go more than 1/2”.
 
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fatmonk8

fatmonk8

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You should be able to get a 1/2” lift just by shortening the ride height sensor links by about 1/4”. That will trick the computer into thinking the truck has a bunch of weight on the back and it will add air to correct the squat. Be sure to check to be sure you’re still in the center-ish of the shock travel but it should be fine as long as you don’t go more than 1/2”.
Won't that make the rear stiffer though?
 

Rocket Man

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Won't that make the rear stiffer though?
No, you shouldn’t notice anything. It doesn’t change damper rates afaik. It’s so easy to try, it’s ridiculous. Measure the old ones and make a set of shorter ones using a new set or there’s adjustable aftermarket ones available, here’s an Amazon link. They have plastic ball sockets on the ends, they just pop off and on. Dorman makes aftermarket ones that are stock replacements you could probably modify. Amazon https://a.co/d/2pXuUGN
 
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fatmonk8

fatmonk8

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No, you shouldn’t notice anything. It doesn’t change damper rates afaik. It’s so easy to try, it’s ridiculous. Measure the old ones and make a set of shorter ones using a new set or there’s adjustable aftermarket ones available, here’s an Amazon link. They have plastic ball sockets on the ends, they just pop off and on. Dorman makes aftermarket ones that are stock replacements you could probably modify. Amazon https://a.co/d/2pXuUGN
Oh dang, that's awesome. I'll definitely give these a shot. Nothing to lose I guess
 
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fatmonk8

fatmonk8

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No, you shouldn’t notice anything. It doesn’t change damper rates afaik. It’s so easy to try, it’s ridiculous. Measure the old ones and make a set of shorter ones using a new set or there’s adjustable aftermarket ones available, here’s an Amazon link. They have plastic ball sockets on the ends, they just pop off and on. Dorman makes aftermarket ones that are stock replacements you could probably modify. Amazon https://a.co/d/2pXuUGN
Curious, these say 07-14. Mine is a 15. Is there that much of a different?
 

Rocket Man

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I’m not one to ask on that- 02-14 is all the same I know. Others here will answer that question.
 

Eighthtry

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There is a reason that they state that. If you screw with ride height on autoride you are screwing with the alignment front and rear. If you have to do it, then go to a professional shop and specifically ask if they have addressed that before. If they have, then pull everythiing off, replace with new shocks, and get an alignment front and rear, assuming you have independent rear. Why you want to get rid of autoride is beyond me. Your ride will degrade noticably. Your truck will start riding like a truck.
 
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fatmonk8

fatmonk8

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There is a reason that they state that. If you screw with ride height on autoride you are screwing with the alignment front and rear. If you have to do it, then go to a professional shop and specifically ask if they have addressed that before. If they have, then pull everythiing off, replace with new shocks, and get an alignment front and rear, assuming you have independent rear. Why you want to get rid of autoride is beyond me. Your ride will degrade noticably. Your truck will start riding like a truck.
Yeah, I feel like you didn't read the thread. I do not want to get rid of auto ride..
 
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Hey all,

A while back I replaced my front struts with some Rancho ones. (They were a better deal at the time, and stated they leveled the front and the ride stiffness is adjustable).

Well since installing then my truck has a bit of a rake. I am not sure if the rear is just sagging a little since those springs are still the original, or if the front struts actually lifted the truck higher then it stated it would.

I was looking at throwing some leveling blocks on the rear to level the back

I was looking at these. https://www.americantrucks.com/moto...ppc&T5_Var2=shopping&T5_Var3=red&gad_source=1

But they stat not for Autoride. Is lifting the rear with air ride going to damage or hurt it? Is there another option to level the rear with air ride?
Like some suggested, you can get an all thread cut to length or the adjustable bar. When I did a baby lift on my 16 suburban, Maxx suspension sent a piece of metal bracket that moved the stock sensor bar up with shock extensions. Magnetic/autoride still functioning, rides like factory.
 

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