What 3 parts would you choose and why…

[SpineDock]

Imagine - your exact truck has shown up at the local U-Pick-It salvage yard and there is NOTHING wrong with it!
It has all its OEM parts.
They all work perfectly.
Question is…
What 3 parts would you choose and why?
GO!!

 

[Doubeleive]

really depends on the mileage and why it's salvaged.

 

[SpineDock]

really depends on the mileage and why it's salvaged.

Let’s pretend it’s a brand new version of your Year, Make and Model.
What would you choose then?

 

[gooffeyguy]

Dash
Drivers seat cushion
Steering wheel

Not that mine are bad, but those seem to be the most worn or broken/cracked items that I would want to have a new one on hand or in storage for future use

 

[OR VietVet]

Transmission-back up
Engine-back up
transfer case-back up

Biggest cost items

 

[CMoore711]

Dash
Drivers seat cushion
Steering wheel

Not that mine are bad, but those seem to be the most worn or broken/cracked items that I would want to have a new one on hand or in storage for future use

Very good suggestions given your current daily is a 2012 Yukon Denali XL…

Could you imagine trying to best answer this question without knowing ANYTHING about the OP’s current vehicle? Year, make, model, trim level, drivetrain?

Whether this is a hypothetical question or a situation you have found yourself in @SpineDock help us help you man.

Post current year make model trim level drivetrain and mileage of your current rig.

Current year make model trim level drivetrain and mileage of the unicorn rig you found at the junk yard.

 

[Doubeleive]

Let’s pretend it’s a brand new version of your Year, Make and Model.
What would you choose then?

3 parts? hmm
engine
transmission
front differential
why? because these are the eternal parts
I had the engine replaced once under a warranty so it did not really cost me much around $1,000 because of options i took but, the billed cost was $9,999.00 (new crate motor & new water pump and misc)
transmission was rebuilt/upgraded for 500hp, my cost $4,300.00
front differential was also rebuilt under a warranty, not sure what the cost was off-hand but I am guessing around $1,200-1,400.
aside from the rear diff and the above mentioned parts keeping these things on the road is not that costly

 

[SpineDock]

Very good suggestions given your current daily is a 2012 Yukon Denali XL…

Could you imagine trying to best answer this question without knowing ANYTHING about the OP’s current vehicle? Year, make, model, trim level, drivetrain?

Whether this is a hypothetical question or a situation you have found yourself in @SpineDock help us help you man.

Post current year make model trim level drivetrain and mileage of your current rig.

Current year make model trim level drivetrain and mileage of the unicorn rig you found at the junk yard.

All hypothetical but to better prepare myself in case I come across any of these parts that match up with my Y M and M
The more I learn from you guys about my truck, the better!

2015 Tahoe LT
51k miles
No mods YET!
Had to replace the MyLink screen module and the compressor so far…
Changing oil every 5k no matter what and going to do the FULL delete with Cam, oil pump, etc. when I have the funds
Thanks for playing along guys!

 

[swathdiver]

Imagine - your exact truck has shown up at the local U-Pick-It salvage yard and there is NOTHING wrong with it!
It has all its OEM parts.
They all work perfectly.
Question is…
What 3 parts would you choose and why?
GO!!

The interior, the body and the drivetrain! LOL

 

[SpineDock]

Interesting how everyone’s answer is slightly different, most likely, depending on their experience with their vehicle.

Some of the answers I didn’t think
about were:

Driver seat
Dashboard/Interior
Steering wheel
Front differential
Transfer case
Body

I would grab:
Engine
Body
Transmission

 

[CMoore711]

The suggestions above for engine, transmission, any differentials, and transfer case are good ones. They're big ticket items to repair/replace when they go bad.

I'm pretty sure you have the L83 5.3L with the 6L90e 6 speed transmission. There are plenty of shops that rebuild the 6L90e and are able to rebuild it to be stronger than OEM. Since you're planning to do a full AFM delete with cam etc. chances are likely you may choose a mild cam that offers a bit more usable power than stock, so an upgraded transmission and upgraded torque converter when that time comes will be a better idea than replacing it with another OEM transmission and torque converter.

Since it's hypothetic let's make some other assumptions based on your post:
1. You continue to do oil changes every 4-5K miles.
2. You have a plan to do the full mechanical delete of the AFM before 100K miles.
3. You are following the GM "Severe" Maintenance schedule on your fluid changes for your major drive train parts.

Front Driver Leather Seat - The whole thing unbolt it and take it with you.
This is bound to show it's age the most and potentially have cracked/excessively worn leather. Because there's no way to shoot for 300K-500K miles without sitting and getting in and out of your leather driver's seat.

I'm going to count these as "one thing" even though it's 4 pieces: All 4 Doors including interior door panels - unbolt them from the hinges make sure they are completely dry, wrap them in bubble wrap and store them safely.

GM Trucks/SUV's are notoriously known to form rust along the bottom lower edge of the doors around the pinch welds and around the wheel well openings of the rear quarter panels (removing a rear quarter panel is not an easy "unbolt" "pick a part" task). Completely replacing the doors with new ones that are already the same color as your rig (since it's your exact truck) will be significantly easier and cheaper than paying a body shop to replace door skins and paint. And since you would have the whole door to include the interior door panel you have extra things on there like glass, window motors, and switches that can get worn/break due to excessive use, and having the whole door makes this a simple remove and reinstall door replacement.

I think the verdict is still out on if the door rust situation has improved much with the K2XX trucks as they are only approaching 8+ years in age. Personally, miles and maintenance doesn't scare me, rust does.

I'm torn on the last item: Front Diff, transfer case, or short block.

Front diff OR Transfer case - because they're expensive. But we don't even know if your rig is 4WD so the front diff and transfer case may not apply.

Short Block - No need for long block because you're doing a mechanical AFM delete that will change and "refresh" the top end of your motor. So short block would only be needed if you wanted to slow roll a build of that or just have a spare in case something happens. On the other hand lightly used L83 5.3L short blocks are not hard to find.

That's my 2 cents!

 

[Ohannon7]

I wanna play…..

1. Wheels (re-use or easy to resell)
2. 2nd row captain seats (options are good, easy resell)
3. Dash trim pieces/speedo (backups to repaint after mine get scratched up)

 

[SpyShops212]

1/Leather seat skins for the 1st and 2nd row in ebony from a platinum.
2/Front headlights and rear taillights.
3/Two new rims

 

[GoNoGo]

Knobs/buttons, mirrors, tires, and bumper covers.

 

[89Suburban]

Definitely long block being I am at 345K and my ass puckers every time I go to start it.

And a transmission too to have rebuilt and set aside as a spare. Mine was rebuilt once before I got it.

And a transfer case.

 

[SpineDock]

The suggestions above for engine, transmission, any differentials, and transfer case are good ones. They're big ticket items to repair/replace when they go bad.

I'm pretty sure you have the L83 5.3L with the 6L90e 6 speed transmission. There are plenty of shops that rebuild the 6L90e and are able to rebuild it to be stronger than OEM. Since you're planning to do a full AFM delete with cam etc. chances are likely you may choose a mild cam that offers a bit more usable power than stock, so an upgraded transmission and upgraded torque converter when that time comes will be a better idea than replacing it with another OEM transmission and torque converter.

Since it's hypothetic let's make some other assumptions based on your post:
1. You continue to do oil changes every 4-5K miles.
2. You have a plan to do the full mechanical delete of the AFM before 100K miles.
3. You are following the GM "Severe" Maintenance schedule on your fluid changes for your major drive train parts.

Front Driver Leather Seat - The whole thing unbolt it and take it with you.
This is bound to show it's age the most and potentially have cracked/excessively worn leather. Because there's no way to shoot for 300K-500K miles without sitting and getting in and out of your leather driver's seat.

I'm going to count these as "one thing" even though it's 4 pieces: All 4 Doors including interior door panels - unbolt them from the hinges make sure they are completely dry, wrap them in bubble wrap and store them safely.

GM Trucks/SUV's are notoriously known to form rust along the bottom lower edge of the doors around the pinch welds and around the wheel well openings of the rear quarter panels (removing a rear quarter panel is not an easy "unbolt" "pick a part" task). Completely replacing the doors with new ones that are already the same color as your rig (since it's your exact truck) will be significantly easier and cheaper than paying a body shop to replace door skins and paint. And since you would have the whole door to include the interior door panel you have extra things on there like glass, window motors, and switches that can get worn/break due to excessive use, and having the whole door makes this a simple remove and reinstall door replacement.

I think the verdict is still out on if the door rust situation has improved much with the K2XX trucks as they are only approaching 8+ years in age. Personally, miles and maintenance doesn't scare me, rust does.

I'm torn on the last item: Front Diff, transfer case, or short block.

Front diff OR Transfer case - because they're expensive. But we don't even know if your rig is 4WD so the front diff and transfer case may not apply.

Short Block - No need for long block because you're doing a mechanical AFM delete that will change and "refresh" the top end of your motor. So short block would only be needed if you wanted to slow roll a build of that or just have a spare in case something happens. On the other hand lightly used L83 5.3L short blocks are not hard to find.

That's my 2 cents!

Never thought of the doors!!

I’m still trying to figure out how to add my vehicle info to my profile (VIN, Transmission type, etc.)

 

[Baja_Bob]

A sunroof, my '21 doesn't have a sunroof.

 

[OR VietVet]

A sunroof, my '21 doesn't have a sunroof.

I wish my 05 did not have a sun/moon roof. A source of a possible water leak, IMO.

 

[MadMax_MFP]

Engine
Transmission
Interior

I like the thought of the extra engine/transmission to modify and have a backup in case the potential engine or trans grenade. Anything interior simply because of wear and tear and since these items seem to get discontinued by the manufacturer to soon in my book.