Inner axle shaft fixin

[Jobi-Wan Kenobi]

So I had the leak on the my drivers front inner axle shaft to be fixed. When the CV shaft was bolted up to it the shaft did have a bit of radial play so I was thinking the bearing may have needed replacing too. I have the shaft out but can't see how to get the bearing out. Where would the play have been coming from? What holds the shaft in? Do I need a retaining ring for the end of it?

 

[Rocket Man]

If you’re talking wheel bearing, you need to replace the hub. It also includes the wheel speed sensor.

 

[George B]

Post up some pics on what your doing.

 

[Jobi-Wan Kenobi]

I have the inner axle shaft from the front axle out on the passenger side to change the seal. Does the needle bearing get changed here too?

Does the end of the shaft need a retaining ring?

The CV shaft and wheel hub have already been replaced.

 

[OR VietVet]

Takes a small puller to remove that bearing assembly and an installation tool. There should be a cir-clip on the end of that shaft. Did that shaft just pull right out or did you have to "pop" it? Bits of cir-clip floating/laying in there now.

 

[Jobi-Wan Kenobi]

Ok. I had to work a bit to get the shaft out. It didn't just slide out. I can't really tell if the bearing is bad. Just initially looking at it it seems ok. Would that be where the radial play was coming from? Is there a was to recover the broken pieces without disassembling the entire axle?

And this is the drivers side shaft. Not passenger side.

 

[Rocket Man]

I haven’t worked on the diff assembly but @randeez has done some rebuilding on his 07; I’m pretty sure they’re the same. Iirc he found out some had circlips holding the axles in and some required a special puller but I do believe he had to open the case either way. Maybe he’ll chime in.

 

[OR VietVet]

To retrieve those pieces, disassembly is in your future but because they are metal they have likely floated to the bottom and if the system is selective 4wd, then the only time to worry is when the 4wd is activated. People that know me would tell you I would be in there looking. It's my nature. When you get the new cir-clip you can see what it looks like in one piece. I have seen where the cir-clip was fine till the shaft removal process. The play could be from the bearing but that also could be normal. How much up and down play was there? Lots of times a dirty greasy bearing can look ok but be bad. When you do install a new bearing, pack some grease in there before the install. Let's put it this way, no way do I tear down this far without doing a new bearing and I would do both sides. But that is just me.

 

[Jobi-Wan Kenobi]

There wasn't much play. Maybe a 1/16" with just the stub shaft? The other side is tight. It was much more noticeable though with the CV shaft bolted up. But yea since I can see the bearing and I have a new one already I would like to replace it.

 

[Rocket Man]

You can buy a subscription to www.alldatadiy.com for the 1-month minimum which gives you access to a digital copy of the service manual. It goes over disassembly and repair of the front differential. I looked at it to see if I could just explain to you but it looks a bit complicated and I’d rather not be in the middle. I don’t believe a 1- month subscription is very much. Its what I would do it if it were me in your situation.

 

[Jobi-Wan Kenobi]

@Rocket Man I've been wanting to get some sort of factory level service info. I just haven't decided what to get yet between Alldata, Mitchell DIY or what ever else. But yea Alldata seems to be fairly cost-effective. I'd probably spring for at least a year.

 

[Rocket Man]

@Rocket Man I've been wanting to get some sort of factory level service info. I just haven't decided what to get yet between Alldata, Mitchell DIY or what ever else. But yea Alldata seems to be fairly cost-effective. I'd probably spring for at least a year.

I’ve had subscriptions for both my trucks since I’ve owned them, and a few years ago I bought a Tech2 clone for about $300. Both are well worth it.

 

[Jobi-Wan Kenobi]

@Rocket Man for a while I've been wanting to upgrade my diagnostic equipment. Before I got the Tahoe I was thinking either Autel or Launch. But now the Tech2 emulators seem like an attractive setup too.

 

[89Suburban]

Try running a magnet around in there to see if anything gets picked up.

 

[Jobi-Wan Kenobi]

@89Suburban I was thinking of trying the same thing. I do have a couple flexible magnets I could try in there.

 

[OR VietVet]

Unless you get lucky and get all the parts to make a complete cir clip, you will still have metal in there. Good luck

 

[Jobi-Wan Kenobi]

@OR VietVet how do you inside there to retrieve the pieces?

 

[OR VietVet]

You can try the magnet, as has been suggested, or you do have to remove the assembly and split the case. There is not cover to remove like the rear diff.

IMO, the design is not friendly if you need access in there, like the rear is. The drain plug is on the driver's side down low and if I remember right, it is a 13mm head bolt to remove. Might be able to drain there, and get the flow of fluid to pull the bits to the hole and shove a magnet in there to see what you get.

The fill plug is on the same side and above it and I do not see how you could get a flex magnet in there and point it to the bottom of the case to search for cir clip bits.

 

[gooffeyguy]

You can try the magnet, as has been suggested, or you do have to remove the assembly and split the case. There is not cover to remove like the rear diff.

IMO, the design is not friendly if you need access in there, like the rear is. The drain plug is on the driver's side down low and if I remember right, it is a 13mm head bolt to remove. Might be able to drain there, and get the flow of fluid to pull the bits to the hole and shove a magnet in there to see what you get.

The fill plug is on the same side and above it and I do not see how you could get a flex magnet in there and point it to the bottom of the case to search for cir clip bits.

You could probably open both the fill and drain plugs (the fill hole is huge) and try flushing it with something. Maybe spray a few cans of brake parts cleaner in there and let it drain out.

 

[OR VietVet]

You could probably open both the fill and drain plugs (the fill hole is huge) and try flushing it with something. Maybe spray a few cans of brake parts cleaner in there and let it drain out.

Good call. You could get one of those hand pump cannisters and fill it with brake clean and spray it in there under more pressure and have a great chance of the flow out getting those bits out, IMO.