Magneride dead at 85k

[HatingChevy]

I need some serious direction here. I have 85k on my 2015 Tahoe LTZ. To be honest - worse truck I have ever purchased and this my 7th chevy truck.

• Dead transmission at 80k ( I got Chevy to pay for 1/2 - Out of warranty on the 5 year aspect of the warranty, but under the 100k).
• AC went out with a cracked freon manifold, took chevy 4 freaking SUMMER months to get a replacement...they did only charge me 100 bucks for my troubles though.
• And now...as I digress - Mageride suspension and its dead. Im riding on springs. Chevy says i need new shocks all a round to the tune of 4,000 bucks...oh, and of course, they cant get replacements for 2 months MINIMUM..guy said it could be 4

I know this is common as shocks dont last forever...but I dont think I would have bought this car knowing that shock replacement would be this expensive..or that chevy wouldnt be able to produce them when they go out

So I guess my question is...whats everyone else out there doing?? Do you suck it up and pay for new Mageride or do you put the 4k into an all new lift with rims and tires and override the Mageride?

 

[Tahoe14]

Welcome, This has been addressed many times on this forum. A simple Google search with your concern should bring up this forum. You should not let the Dealer get you all worked up about the price on OEM parts and labor. Never pay Dealer pricing. Check Ebay for GM Dealers, better pricing, free shipping, and no tax. Also you can check auto parts companies like Rockauto. It has been reported that it is not too difficult to do yourself or find an independent shop in your area. The other option is different shocks and a device to override the dash light illuminating when it does not read the magnetic ride shocks. My personal opinion is OEM but that is just me. Good luck.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics, please.

Yes, as stated above, there are other options. Replacement at the dealer will always be your most expensive option, by far; and unfortunately, the higher price does not automatically translate to a better quality of workmanship.

Other folks will chime in with their personal experiences.

 

[Doubeleive]

I need some serious direction here. I have 85k on my 2015 Tahoe LTZ. To be honest - worse truck I have ever purchased and this my 7th chevy truck.

• Dead transmission at 80k ( I got Chevy to pay for 1/2 - Out of warranty on the 5 year aspect of the warranty, but under the 100k).
• AC went out with a cracked freon manifold, took chevy 4 freaking SUMMER months to get a replacement...they did only charge me 100 bucks for my troubles though.
• And now...as I digress - Mageride suspension and its dead. Im riding on springs. Chevy says i need new shocks all a round to the tune of 4,000 bucks...oh, and of course, they cant get replacements for 2 months MINIMUM..guy said it could be 4

I know this is common as shocks dont last forever...but I dont think I would have bought this car knowing that shock replacement would be this expensive..or that chevy wouldnt be able to produce them when they go out

So I guess my question is...whats everyone else out there doing?? Do you suck it up and pay for new Mageride or do you put the 4k into an all new lift with rims and tires and override the Mageride?

you can do it yourself for right around $1k possibly less depending on if you need the pump and shocks or just shocks, you can get the front shock portion of the strut and have the springs compressed and the new shocks put in, easy peasy, the rear's are easy and pump is easy plus you get a core credit back when you return your old rear shocks if you get the arnott's from rockauto.

 

[Doubeleive]

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog....3l+v8,3307627,suspension,shock+absorber,7556

looks like maybe there is no core on the rears for the k2xx
so those would run you $243 each lifetime warranty, fronts you can do oem those run about $88 each depending your suspension code, and a pump is $164 for the dorman lifetime warranty the arnott is $226 lifetime warranty so right around $900 for parts

 

[HatingChevy]

Welcome, This has been addressed many times on this forum. A simple Google search with your concern should bring up this forum. You should not let the Dealer get you all worked up about the price on OEM parts and labor. Never pay Dealer pricing. Check Ebay for GM Dealers, better pricing, free shipping, and no tax. Also you can check auto parts companies like Rockauto. It has been reported that it is not too difficult to do yourself or find an independent shop in your area. The other option is different shocks and a device to override the dash light illuminating when it does not read the magnetic ride shocks. My personal opinion is OEM but that is just me. Good luck.

Thanks for the reply - I have looked around a bit. Seems like the magneride stuts. I have definitely looked around and have found some stuff but am still a bit confused. Ive read the xingeneering stuff on the override and that seem pretty strait forward, but it also adds 500 bucks which is a tough pill to swallow

 

[HatingChevy]

you can do it yourself for right around $1k possibly less depending on if you need the pump and shocks or just shocks, you can get the front shock portion of the strut and have the springs compressed and the new shocks put in, easy peasy, the rear's are easy and pump is easy plus you get a core credit back when you return your old rear shocks if you get the arnott's from rockauto.

Thanks for the response!! I would be willing to try and do this on my own, but I really dont know a ton about working underneath cars. Im fairly handy, but I do mostly home improvement stuff. Also, Its really confusing on what exactly I need to get. If i stick with magneride, seems like Im limited to OEM struts in the front, but what about the shocks in the back. Which products do I buy exactly? also, if the dealers cant get the struts how would I be able to?

 

[Doubeleive]

Thanks for the response!! I would be willing to try and do this on my own, but I really dont know a ton about working underneath cars. Im fairly handy, but I do mostly home improvement stuff. Also, Its really confusing on what exactly I need to get. If i stick with magneride, seems like Im limited to OEM struts in the front, but what about the shocks in the back. Which products do I buy exactly? also, if the dealers cant get the struts how would I be able to?

if you want to keep it working like oem then yes you need the struts that have the sensors,
if you post up the last 8 of your vin then @915_Tahoe can tell us the strut part number or the shock portion of the strut number you need for the front's or if you have the part number for the struts already then you can reference it on rockauto to find a match a lot of times gm likes to change the part number or rather "update" the part number so rockauto may have the previous part number in stock where gm won't.
the rear you can use the arnott and they will work just fine. at any rate you can order all the parts and then just pay a shop for labor to put them in and still save a lot of money.

 

[HatingChevy]

if you want to keep it working like oem then yes you need the struts that have the sensors,
if you post up the last 8 of your vin then @915_Tahoe can tell us the strut part number or the shock portion of the strut number you need for the front's or if you have the part number for the struts already then you can reference it on rockauto to find a match a lot of times gm likes to change the part number or rather "update" the part number so rockauto may have the previous part number in stock where gm won't.
the rear you can use the arnott and they will work just fine. at any rate you can order all the parts and then just pay a shop for labor to put them in and still save a lot of money.

fr109479
You guys are so awesome here. Here is my vin - fr109479

its the struts that seem to be causing the headache for me. Ill check on the arnotts for the rear

 

[HatingChevy]

Arnotts are on the way!!!. 533 shipped

 

[Doubeleive]

Arnotts are on the way!!!. 533 shipped

is the pump working when you turn the key to run? it should come on for a few seconds then shut off

 

[HatingChevy]

is the pump working when you turn the key to run? it should come on for a few seconds then shut off

when aux power is on or engine running? Mine is a push to start. I know i hear a hum when i start the engine, but I thought that was the same loud fuel pump they have been using for the last 20 years

 

[HatingChevy]

Also - According to summit racing this is the strut I need

2015 CHEVROLET TAHOE ACDelco OE Shocks and Struts 84176631
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-84176631/year/2015/make/chevrolet/model/tahoe

 

[915_Tahoe]

fr109479
You guys are so awesome here. Here is my vin - fr109479

its the struts that seem to be causing the headache for me. Ill check on the arnotts for the rear

L/R FRNT STRUTS GM#84176631 $671.62 ech.
L/R REAR GM#84176675 $671.62 ech.

 

[ThisIsLivin]

The Arnott's are the way to go. Swapped my magneride on my Denali and the Arnott's are so much better. They are way better for towing too.

 

[purduecmpe]

What did you use for the front? OEM on the front and Arnott on the rear?

 

[avalonandl]

I doubt your pump is bad. Check your fuse.

 

[avalonandl]

when aux power is on or engine running? Mine is a push to start. I know i hear a hum when i start the engine, but I thought that was the same loud fuel pump they have been using for the last 20 years

No the DFI engines use a crank driven pump for direct fuel injection. Thats why the V8 needs to crank for about 2-3 seconds before they start.

 

[06 Taco]

I replaced the rears on my 2015 Denali with the Arnott's from Rock Auto, it made a huge improvement in the ride. Mine were shot at 36500 miles. I don't think it took more than three hours start to finish including set up and clean up. I think I saw another after market strut mentioned in another Dead Mag Ride thread on this forum, you may try searching for it.

 

[CMoore711]

The Arnott's are the way to go. Swapped my magneride on my Denali and the Arnott's are so much better. They are way better for towing too.

I replaced the rears on my 2015 Denali with the Arnott's from Rock Auto, it made a huge improvement in the ride. Mine were shot at 36500 miles. I don't think it took more than three hours start to finish including set up and clean up. I think I saw another after market strut mentioned in another Dead Mag Ride thread on this forum, you may try searching for it.

I'm assuming you guys are referring to the Arnott AS3066 for vehicles with magneride and air suspension.

What about the Arnotts would you say are better/improved performance over stock based on your experience?
Less bouncy?
Smoother ride?
More stable?

I'll be due for new rear shocks on my '15 Denali XL and usually go with OEM, but am open to going aftermarket if the result is improved ride/performance over stock.