Going from 285/45r22 to 305/45r22 on levelled Suburban

[AZCreeker]

I am thinking about putting summer tires, such as General Grabber UHP 305/45r22 on our Suburban.
Right now we have stock OEM, Premier trim level 22" wheels on 285/45r22.
I am pretty sure this would rub, albeit slightly.
What do you guys think about putting a 1" Bora Spacers would solve the possible rubbing?
according to my calculation (or tire compaison tool ) seems I would be increasing width by 0.8"
let me know what you guys think?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I cannot directly help you with your question, as I am running 20x8.5 31mm OEM wheels. I can tell you, however, that I run 305/50/20 tires on these wheels on my 07 Yukon XL with a stock height, and I have no rubbing issues. The clearance at the front of the front tires is close, but there is adequate space for normal road driving.

Other folks running 22" wheels will chime in.

 

[olyelr]

I am in the same boat. Wifes denali xl is leveled with stock size tires on the factory 22’s. She needs new tires and I am thinking of going up a size.

I am pretty sure these size tires will fit with very minimal rubbing, if any at all. In my opinion, adding wheel spacers would make it rub worse.

The factory tires are close to rubbing in the first place. But one thing to remember, the tire may be .8” wider, but its really only .4” on each side.

Turn the current tire lock to lock, checking where it gets close to rubbing throughout the cycle. Then measure how much room you have before it rubs. Also, when it is close to rubbing the fender liner, picture the entire wheel out another 1”....it will rub bad most likely.

I think am either gonna go with the 305/45’s or 285/50’s, and am leaning towards the 285/50’s (need good winter performance, and the wider tire isnt gonna help).

 

[Joseph Garcia]

As olyelr suggested, check the existing clearances between your tires and the suspension, frame, and fender components throughout the range of the steering wheel positions, as this will be a baseline set of measurements from which to simulate the changes with a different tire size. The following tire size calculator web site may be able to help you estimate the clearance changes with a different tire size.

https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/

 

[AZCreeker]

thanks everyone for the replies. I will stay with 285/45r22, seems potential benefits/potential rubbing issues not worth it.

 

[olyelr]

thanks everyone for the replies. I will stay with 285/45r22, seems potential benefits/potential rubbing issues not worth it.

This guy has 305/45/22’s on stock wheels with a 1.5” level and says it has extremely minimal rub at all...only at full lock...

 

[AZCreeker]

This guy has 305/45/22’s on stock wheels with a 1.5” level and says it has extremely minimal rub at all...only at full lock...

I talked to my local discount tire, and I can try the 305/45r22 if I dont like it, come back get the 285. so no much risk at least trying

 

[olyelr]

I talked to my local discount tire, and I can try the 305/45r22 if I dont like it, come back get the 285. so no much risk at least trying

Heck yea thats a great deal.

 

[jkc]

Will they take the tires back if it rubs and cuts the side wall?

 

[PG01]

Will they take the tires back if it rubs and cuts the side wall?

Yes, they dismount the tires from the rims then slice them open on both sidewalls around the entire circumference of the tire.

Then they trim about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch off the tire side (depends on how much they rub), not the bead side (rim side) because of the ‘steel belts’ it gets harder to trim and is more dangerous.

They test fit the tires back to the rim so that they are sure they removed an even 1/2 to 3/4 completely around, if not even you will get a ‘vibration’ After they are positive the tires are even they dismount again, line everything up and put them in a preheated 350* oven to ‘melt’ everything back together. If the tech is sloppy the info molded into the tire will not match so keep an eye on them.

The whole process is fairly quick, especially with a knowledgeable technician, and he should be out in an hour max, plus its a free service at most tire shops.

The only thing they charge for is the evacuation and recovery of the air in the tires, cost varies by state but generally about 10-15 cents per pound. You’ll want to make sure you get ‘your air’ back.... you already paid for it and its specific to your tires.... dont want someone else’s air contaminating yours and throwing your wheels off balance.

Not a full explanation but hopefully I explained it well enough... good luck tire shopping

 

[jkc]

Yes, they dismount the tires from the rims then slice them open on both sidewalls around the entire circumference of the tire.

Then they trim about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch off the tire side (depends on how much they rub), not the bead side (rim side) because of the ‘steel belts’ it gets harder to trim and is more dangerous.

They test fit the tires back to the rim so that they are sure they removed an even 1/2 to 3/4 completely around, if not even you will get a ‘vibration’ After they are positive the tires are even they dismount again, line everything up and put them in a preheated 350* oven to ‘melt’ everything back together. If the tech is sloppy the info molded into the tire will not match so keep an eye on them.

The whole process is fairly quick, especially with a knowledgeable technician, and he should be out in an hour max, plus its a free service at most tire shops.

The only thing they charge for is the evacuation and recovery of the air in the tires, cost varies by state but generally about 10-15 cents per pound. You’ll want to make sure you get ‘your air’ back.... you already paid for it and its specific to your tires.... dont want someone else’s air contaminating yours and throwing your wheels off balance.

Not a full explanation but hopefully I explained it well enough... good luck tire shopping

Hell yeah, I want to get mine done too now. I'll bring some trash bags to catch the air so I don't have to pay that ridiculous fee

 

[AZCreeker]

Yes, they dismount the tires from the rims then slice them open on both sidewalls around the entire circumference of the tire.

Then they trim about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch off the tire side (depends on how much they rub), not the bead side (rim side) because of the ‘steel belts’ it gets harder to trim and is more dangerous.

They test fit the tires back to the rim so that they are sure they removed an even 1/2 to 3/4 completely around, if not even you will get a ‘vibration’ After they are positive the tires are even they dismount again, line everything up and put them in a preheated 350* oven to ‘melt’ everything back together. If the tech is sloppy the info molded into the tire will not match so keep an eye on them.

The whole process is fairly quick, especially with a knowledgeable technician, and he should be out in an hour max, plus its a free service at most tire shops.

The only thing they charge for is the evacuation and recovery of the air in the tires, cost varies by state but generally about 10-15 cents per pound. You’ll want to make sure you get ‘your air’ back.... you already paid for it and its specific to your tires.... dont want someone else’s air contaminating yours and throwing your wheels off balance.

Not a full explanation but hopefully I explained it well enough... good luck tire shopping

Some very good Points here. Now it seems their service is inferior to my dealer who charged me $280 to put nitrogen in the tires.
The Nitrogen also came with some very nice green valve caps, remind me often how I made the right choice for the safety of my family.
This and the sheer size of the Suburban, which was obtain signing a 120 month subprime loan, really makes a difference while picking up the kiddos at school pickup.

 

[Ccarterz71]

I have 285/50/22. Very minimal rubbing at full lock off a driveway curb.

 

[John33]

I am thinking about putting summer tires, such as General Grabber UHP 305/45r22 on our Suburban.
Right now we have stock OEM, Premier trim level 22" wheels on 285/45r22.
I am pretty sure this would rub, albeit slightly.
What do you guys think about putting a 1" Bora Spacers would solve the possible rubbing?
according to my calculation (or tire compaison tool ) seems I would be increasing width by 0.8"
let me know what you guys think?

View attachment 245936

I have a 2019 Tahoe lt. 2wd the rear is lowered 2” with the maxtrac coils. I hate the rake the truck comes with. I have oem 22’s with a 305/45/22. The tire fills out the wheel well much better. Also provides a little more sidewall to protect the rims from women drivers lol. But there’s no rubbing at all unless your going in reverse with the wheel cut all the way and even at that it’s minimal. I have a Silverado also reverse leveled with the same tire size set up. No issues.

 

[Akinshake]

I have 305/45 with fox coil overs and I have very minimal rubbing on passenger side at full lock

 

[nick14226]

I am thinking about putting summer tires, such as General Grabber UHP 305/45r22 on our Suburban.
Right now we have stock OEM, Premier trim level 22" wheels on 285/45r22.
I am pretty sure this would rub, albeit slightly.
What do you guys think about putting a 1" Bora Spacers would solve the possible rubbing?
according to my calculation (or tire compaison tool ) seems I would be increasing width by 0.8"
let me know what you guys think?

View attachment 245936

Depending on your wheels, and how deep the cast pockets are between the lug holes, going with a 1.25 spacer is a bit easier so you don’t have to trim the studs. I did that with 2 sets of 22’s and they cleared. I ran 305 45 22 with a 2” level. Without spacers they cleared fine with the level, with spacers had to do some trimming.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...-tahoes-and-yukons.86065/page-62#post-1446410