High Mileage?

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mykdee

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I tried searching and could not find anything.

So my question is, what do you consider high mileage on the 5.7 and what is the highest mileage motors on this site?

I have a 94 2-door Yukon with the 5.7 and 205k on it and would like to start using it for daily use. It runs great and has no leaks, previous owners kept it up.

Post up some of the highest mileage motors you guys have.
 

Toomanyhobbies

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Have you done a compression test? If good compression why not? Most say the rule of thumb on a 350 is 200K, but that's just conjecture.
 

SnowDrifter

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Have you done a compression test? If good compression why not? Most say the rule of thumb on a 350 is 200K, but that's just conjecture.
And at that timeframe, even minor variations in maintenance will cause a pretty major difference in the usable lifespan of the engine.


As far as inspecting a high mileage engine to get an idea of where its at, I'd do, at a minimum, the following:

1. Compression AND leakdown test
2. Check oil pressure with mechanical gauge
3. Get an oil analysis done
4. Open the oil cap and see how much blowby you have. Rule of thumb: When you place the cap upside down on the fill port, it should teeter a bit. If it's blown off, that's too much.
5. Monitor oil consumption. Good compression =/= not burning oil


Other things you can check if you'd like to go more in depth:

1. Drop the pan, inspect internals for sludge or varnish
2. While the pan is out, pull rod and main bearings, check clearance and give a visual inspection
3. Inspect the timing chain, verify if it's in spec or not.
 
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mykdee

mykdee

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And at that timeframe, even minor variations in maintenance will cause a pretty major difference in the usable lifespan of the engine.


As far as inspecting a high mileage engine to get an idea of where its at, I'd do, at a minimum, the following:

1. Compression AND leakdown test
2. Check oil pressure with mechanical gauge
3. Get an oil analysis done
4. Open the oil cap and see how much blowby you have. Rule of thumb: When you place the cap upside down on the fill port, it should teeter a bit. If it's blown off, that's too much.
5. Monitor oil consumption. Good compression =/= not burning oil


Other things you can check if you'd like to go more in depth:

1. Drop the pan, inspect internals for sludge or varnish
2. While the pan is out, pull rod and main bearings, check clearance and give a visual inspection
3. Inspect the timing chain, verify if it's in spec or not.


1. What should the compression be at, considering the mileage?
2. What should oil pressure read on a meachanical gauge?

3. I checked for blowby, there is very little blowby close to none. The oil cap is not blown off when laying on there.
 

Squirrelsmith

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1. What should the compression be at, considering the mileage?
2. What should oil pressure read on a meachanical gauge?

3. I checked for blowby, there is very little blowby close to none. The oil cap is not blown off when laying on there.
I believe 150 psi is ideal. Mine has 187k miles the compression was 135 - 150 psi. It's important that all the numbers are within a range of eachother.... %15 i think it is
 

Squirrelsmith

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Personaly im not worried about it. Stock crate engines are so cheap i'll just replace it when the time comes and still be way ahead financially of where i would be with a later model tahoe. Assuming you do the work yourself
 
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mykdee

mykdee

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Personaly im not worried about it. Stock crate engines are so cheap i'll just replace it when the time comes and still be way ahead financially of where i would be with a later model tahoe. Assuming you do the work yourself

I figure even if you pay a shop to install a new crate motor, you would still be in much better shape than buying a new Tahoe or Yukon. You could pay a shop to install a Motor, Trans & transfer case and still be in GREAT shape!
 

Squirrelsmith

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I figure even if you pay a shop to install a new crate motor, you would still be in much better shape than buying a new Tahoe or Yukon. You could pay a shop to install a Motor, Trans & transfer case and still be in GREAT shape!
That was my thought when i bought mine. I was looking at nnbs's and with 100k miles the damn thing were still like $20k. I figure i could totally rebuild a obs (or nbs for that matter) and have a brand new truck.
My theory assumed though that i could do most of the work myself and you need to have the cash to do it. A lot of people can get together $400 a month for a car payment on a 20k car but cant manage their money in such a way that they have several thousands dollars on hand when they do need a new engine.
 
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mykdee

mykdee

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That was my thought when i bought mine. I was looking at nnbs's and with 100k miles the damn thing were still like $20k. I figure i could totally rebuild a obs (or nbs for that matter) and have a brand new truck.
My theory assumed though that i could do most of the work myself and you need to have the cash to do it. A lot of people can get together $400 a month for a car payment on a 20k car but cant manage their money in such a way that they have several thousands dollars on hand when they do need a new engine.

If you are even somewhat responsible with your money and save that $400 a month payment, within 1 year you would have the money for a new motor & trans!
 

SnowDrifter

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That was my thought when i bought mine. I was looking at nnbs's and with 100k miles the damn thing were still like $20k. I figure i could totally rebuild a obs (or nbs for that matter) and have a brand new truck.
My theory assumed though that i could do most of the work myself and you need to have the cash to do it. A lot of people can get together $400 a month for a car payment on a 20k car but cant manage their money in such a way that they have several thousands dollars on hand when they do need a new engine.
That and you'll spend much more on maintaining the NNBS. They break a fair bit more IMO
 

Thomas Tschanz

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Concerning high mileage: My Tahoe 1998 currently has 415'000 km and still drives without problems. I hope I manage with him the 500,000 km mark. :)
 

gc_mountainman

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My '98 Tahoe is a daily driver, and it is at 458,000 km's (286, 250 mi). I would love to have the proper place to pull wrench on it, but condo living prevents that. I drive about 55 km's (34 mi) each way to work. I try to keep the servicing up to date and I am confident as long as I do I will be driving my Tahoe for a few more years yet. I am lucky to have found an excellent mechanic who does not shaft me, nor nickle & dime me to death.
 

claycoboi

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I have 2000 Tahoe Limited. 348,454 miles and counting. It’s my daily driver. Haven’t had any issues at all[emoji1417]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

trevcda

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2000 Tahoe Limited. 348,454 miles and counting.

This is good to hear! I'm sitting at 177,000 miles. I've had to replace various things over the last couple of years (read: nickel and diming) and the paint is getting rough, but for the most part the drive train is solid. I was thinking I'd have start looking for a replacement in the near future, but maybe not! Although, I do tow with mine a fair amount, so maybe I won't be so lucky.
 

claycoboi

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This is good to hear! I'm sitting at 177,000 miles. I've had to replace various things over the last couple of years (read: nickel and diming) and the paint is getting rough, but for the most part the drive train is solid. I was thinking I'd have start looking for a replacement in the near future, but maybe not! Although, I do tow with mine a fair amount, so maybe I won't be so lucky.
I tow with mine also. Just always done regular maintenance and swapped out stuff over time ( water pump, started, etc...) I just try to always us new AC Delco parts and I’ve had no issues. I still have a lil fund set aside for that new 383 stroke when the old girl gives up on me


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trevcda

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swapped out stuff over time ( water pump, started, etc...)

That's where I'm at; I can change out most parts mechanically and electrically. Drivetrain and engine is where I bring in somebody that knows what they're doing! Just had the oil pan changed due to a stripped oil plug. Thank you, crappy oil change chain store that still tells me I need new wipers and filters, when I just changed them a half an hour before going there. :mad: Were the DT and/or enigine fail, I'm sure I'd be replacing the vehicle. As much as I love it, it's a very utilitarian vehicle and was purchased to keep the wear and tear of a much new vehicle.
 

Holt50

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I tried searching and could not find anything.

So my question is, what do you consider high mileage on the 5.7 and what is the highest mileage motors on this site?

I have a 94 2-door Yukon with the 5.7 and 205k on it and would like to start using it for daily use. It runs great and has no leaks, previous owners kept it up.

Post up some of the highest mileage motors you guys have.
Mine has 340.000
 

Sean James

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Really? I bought a 1985 Caprice with a 350 / 700r4 in 2000 with 80K on it. Paid $1000 to an elderly woman who's husband had died.

First thing I did was put Mobil 1 synthetic oil in the motor. Slowly changed the tranny oil a couple of quarts at a time, with a filter change once at 150K. 19 years later I still drive this car 40 miles a day to and from work, I have almost 350,000 miles on this ride today with absolutly no problems. I have changed 1 alternator, 1 mechanical fuel pump, 2 headlights, and 5 sets of tires. And oh, I rebuilt the Qudrajet carb once myself. Yes, it amazes me too. It still has ALL the original tail-light bulbs, side marker bulbs and every thing else it came with. The front power windows gave up the ghost, the A/C was gutted by me years ago, and the power seat adjustment motors quit long ago.

All the glass is perfect, I put Z28 wheels and big tires, and a Grant GT wheel on it in 2001. In 2017 I replaced the shocks with Police packge shocks, and new fan/drive belts for the first time since original. This was the only money I put into it in almost two decades. It has started right up in -20 degree winters in Utah, when my Tahoe, and my Silverado refused to start. Never serviced the diff. This damn car won't quit and is amazing.

She burns about a quart every 4 months, but everything that count's still works. All emission equip't I deleted when I got her. Kept stock iron manifolds, but deleted air injection and cat for a single flowmaster. She sounds awesome, hauls ass when I need her to, and gets thumbs up going down the road. Even the stock white paint finish and body is almost perfect to this day. That's 37 years of reliable service, with tires being the only major cost.

Old school yes, but she amazes me to this day. And she lets my Tahoe and my Silverado sit in the garage while she weathers the rain and snow sitting in the driveway, ready to take me to work 5 days a week without fail.

So my lesson learned here is to Run Synthetic oil, slowly change your tranny fluid here and there, and talk to your baby once in a while while driving down the highway. It took 500 men and women to carve bolts and sheet metal out of steel, to make your car or truck, they kinda have a soul. Not so different from how our Forefathers treated their Horses for thousands of years before Cars and Trucks were invented 120 years ago.

Oh, what were we talking about. Yea, and a small block Chevy is capable of doing 400K if you maintain it with modern chemicals, parts, and yes...love.
 

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