My plans for my 2002 Tahoe

[MaleHoe]

I am loving my 2002 Tahoe LT. For the last 6 years my wife and I had been sharing a 2011 VW Jetta. I am a stay at home dad so getting my own car was kind of a big deal and I did not want to get stuck in a mini-van. I am 6'3" 320 lbs and the jetta was ok but I love my Tahoe. As of right now the only "mod" I have done is pull the fender trim off. I like the look with it off and will get to the door trim and step-side in time. I bought a pdr kit and am going to start cleaning up a few dings. I have the stock 16"s but I plan to go up to a newer 18 inch oem wheel, I like mf# 23205585. I am waiting to do this until I see a screaming deal or I need tires anyway. The jerk that sold me the Tahoe put new tires on just before I bought it.


Since I am only improving things as they need to be fixed... oh lucky day! my autoride is not working. It is holding air and rides nice enough but I could also tell my wife I want it done for safety and she would let me... (I am a very lucky stay at home dad). I am stuck between the 2/3 and 2/4 drop. I do like the look but honestly I am more excited that my taint won't graze the corner of the seat when I get in. I am looking to go in a pro touring/ hotrod/ A-Team Van direction. Cam, valve springs, brakes, long tube headers ect... and one day maybe a huge single turbo.

I would like to get a good suspension set up now so I can do those other things with a solid base. I know just enough to get in trouble so this should be fun. I will post some pictures when something happens. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. as of now I am leaning towards the Belltech 759ND, Eibach anti roll bars and new bushings.

 

[Bombsquad85]

I have the TBSS 2-3/4 drop with 2 inch drop spindles and 4 inch drop springs in the rear. Right now I'm running the 1 inch spacer because I haven't completed the free travel mod yet but once I do I'm gonna take the spacer out.

Even if they aren't bad I'd recommend getting some new wheel hubs (timken) if you do spindles that way it's a much easier install and you dont have to fight to take the stock hubs out. That's what I did but I'm pretty sure one of my hibs was going bad anyways. Also look into the other components while you're under there, control arm bushings, ball joints, tierods. Check the play in the idler arm and pitman arm.

It's fun stuff and worth it when it's all done.

Also as far as shocks I would recommend against the beltech shocks personally. I know a lot of people like the silver ones. I'm waiting for money to get bilsteins 4600s

 

[Freefallin02]

I have the TBSS 2-3/4 drop with 2 inch drop spindles and 4 inch drop springs in the rear. Right now I'm running the 1 inch spacer because I haven't completed the free travel mod yet but once I do I'm gonna take the spacer out.

Even if they aren't bad I'd recommend getting some new wheel hubs (timken) if you do spindles that way it's a much easier install and you dont have to fight to take the stock hubs out. That's what I did but I'm pretty sure one of my hibs was going bad anyways. Also look into the other components while you're under there, control arm bushings, ball joints, tierods. Check the play in the idler arm and pitman arm.

It's fun stuff and worth it when it's all done.

Also as far as shocks I would recommend against the beltech shocks personally. I know a lot of people like the silver ones. I'm waiting for money to get bilsteins 4600s

How do you check pitman and idler arms for play?

 

[Bombsquad85]

How do you check pitman and idler arms for play?

I would get under there and grab the center link bar. Give it a good wiggle side to side. If you notice any play in either one replace it

There may be a better way but this is how I did it

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Lol at

"honestly I am more excited that my taint won't graze the corner of the seat when I get in."

 

[Tonyrodz]

Lol at

"honestly I am more excited that my taint won't graze the corner of the seat when I get in."

Lol, I caught that too.

 

[adriver]

If you are undecided on the 2/3 vs 2/4 drop. Measure all four wheel wells from the middle straight down the middle of the tire to the ground. Do it when you are near empty of fuel when its at its lightest, and do it again, when you have a full tank. If you usually have your kids or other cargo, try to get it as heavy as you can and check it again so you at least know how much of a change you have to work with. If you tow (a lot) you probably want rake (higher in the back). Rake will keep you from being thrown back in the seat for the slightest acceleration. If you make it even /level it, that will help with your handling.

Rear sway bars will help keep the rear end planted give you a more solid feel, so that you are less likely to accidently spin your tires when going around a corner. IMO you should always start with the rear sway bar first. The front will help you turn in. If you turn in really aggressively and get wheel hop, or bump steer then you will want a better front sway bar. If you don't ever notice this, or drive this aggressive than a better front sway bar is really not necessary. From what I have learned, my suggestion would be to first make sure your suspension is all up to where it should be. No point in upgrading one thing if something else is out. Once you get your rear shocks done, make sure all your suspension is tight and upgrade what needs it first. Sway bars are $150-300 a piece. What I would suggest doing before a sway bar is looking into upgrading just the sway bar bushings and end links. This will make sure your current sway bar is performing like it should, and you could do this for $50-$60, (if you can do the easy install yourself).

I've always been a big believer that the first mod should always be brakes. If you are going to do anything at all to upgrade your brakes, look into the NNBS brake upgrade for the front. With better pads in the rear, and new fluid. You would be into it a few hundred in parts, and definitely the safest thing you can do without spending thousands on a big brake kit.

As for performance upgrades, figure out what your budget is. Most every other vehicle the standard is cold air intake, exhaust, and a generic tune. On these vehicles intake and exhaust, are almost completely going to ONLY change the sound, (unless you do a full exhaust with long tube headers, better or no cats, and a higher flow muffler). The main things IMO you should look into are a custom tune, and a cam swap. Not sure how far off your goals are, or what your knowledge or experience is, but it doesn't sound like you are going to be spending more than several thousand for a turbo anytime soon.


Tell us more about it, How many miles? How long have you had it? Does it have any problems? Do you have other maintenance planned?
Do you do your own maintenance?

 

[MaleHoe]

Thanks for all the great info so far. I misspoke when I said the Belltech I did mean Bilstein and from what I have read if I am not going to send it and want a better ride the 4600s are the way to go. I have a couple hundred a month to work with so it will take a little time but I can start putting together the parts.

Bombsquad I got an alignment in August and they suggested pitman and idler arms I forgot I had that done I bought Moog parts.

adriver… Tons of great info thank you. Yes the Turbo will probably wait 5 years. I have had the Tahoe 7 months. I bought it with 196k and I just crossed 200k. it has a minor oil leak and coolant leak. I drove out to Utah and back and added less than a bottle of both checking every time we stopped. The oil looks good I asked to look at the filter when getting it changed and haven't seen any silver or milky crap. I don't do oil changes but I have. I have a brother up in Alaska that is a mechanic I am going to fly down when I have all the parts. The plane ticket and food are cheaper than labor.

Now off to read about the NNBS brake upgrade.​

 

[adriver]

Are you burning oil or can you see a leak coming from somewhere? Do you have any smoke or smell when you start or run?



There are several tests you can search and find out about to check for coolant leaks, usually with tools you can borrow from a local parts store. I think you would want to start with seeing if its a head problem.
This engine came with several different heads from different manufacturers. One of them that was notorious for being defective is the "Castech Head", they had a 706 cast marking on the head. You can see the marking on the back of the DS/Left side of the engine or even easier the front passenger side of the engine, right under the oil filler neck. There will be a 3 digit number for your head casting. If you see that 706, then start here, and go read up much further on it.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Bluegorilla/2008-12-05_142924_Coolant_loss_5.3.pdf

The overflow tanks can crack, the cap could be bad, but the most common problem is usually the waterpump.

 

[MaleHoe]

right under the oil filler neck. There will be a 3 digit number for your head casting. If you see that 706,...

I got up ran out and popped the hood with a pit in my stomach. The number was 862. Unfortunately last night coming home from parent teacher conferences my wife was putting my daughter in the car seat when I started it up and she commented that it stunk... So at least a new gasket kit is in my future.