2000 NBS Blue Steel Burban Build

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00'BlueSteel

00'BlueSteel

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Got the stock mirrors back on, had some extra LEDs laying around so I took the time to throw them in the puddle lights. Since they were the board kind they wouldn’t fit through the opening in the cover so I just angled them towards the back a little.
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00'BlueSteel

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Super blurry photo, I was carrying dinner in last night and trying to grab a photo of the light output. Not bad for some cheap LEDs in the stock mirrors.
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The back-up light LEDs and the flush mount bolts should be here today, working on getting a paint gun so I can paint everything this summer. Tis the season for color matching.

Also have a TruCool 40k on the way, looks like the price went up a little, last time I looked at them was over 2 years ago.
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And I have an email in to Digital-Dash-Solutiuons regarding whether or not the blue needles for my cluster will light up, the pictures they have online looks like the needles do not light up. And what the price would be if I get the cluster they have listed on eBay and add LEDs.

Should be a good week for car stuff even though they are calling for rain.
 
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00'BlueSteel

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Got some stuff did some stuff, seems to be a trend happening here. I’ll get night photos tomorrow, too sleepy for all that.

JDM AX-2835 Chipset
2 sets red
1 set white
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Running light on in daylight.
Halogen LED
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Love the way these less look light up.
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Don’t have a photo of the stock reverse light but it wasn’t anywhere near this bright.
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Tonyrodz

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Got some stuff did some stuff, seems to be a trend happening here. I’ll get night photos tomorrow, too sleepy for all that.

JDM AX-2835 Chipset
2 sets red
1 set white
View attachment 199395

Running light on in daylight.
Halogen LED
View attachment 199393
Love the way these less look light up.
View attachment 199391

Don’t have a photo of the stock reverse light but it wasn’t anywhere near this bright.
View attachment 199392 View attachment 199394
Are you using those for your brake lights? I tried using leds for mine, but they were not bright at all. Could barely see them when stepping on the brakes.
 
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00'BlueSteel

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Are you using those for your brake lights? I tried using leds for mine, but they were not bright at all. Could barely see them when stepping on the brakes.

Yep, I put red ones in my brake light and turn signals because the housing for those lights is already red. I’ll get some better photos when I get home tonight of me hitting the brake pedal verses running light. But I can say they light up a good amount brighter when you hit the brake pedal, definitely noticeable even in broad daylight. I had the fiancée jump in and work the pedals yesterday and I was rather surprised how bright they were when she hit the brake.

It’s a massive improvement over the halogens I had. The daytime photos I posted are just with the running lights on not me hitting the brake. You can barely tell the halogen bulb on the left side is on, but you can clearly tell the LED on the right is light up.
 

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Does your cruise control still work with those leds in? Have hyper flash on the turns ?
 
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00'BlueSteel

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Does your cruise control still work with those leds in? Have hyper flash on the turns ?

I didn’t even think about it because I never use it, but I have read several times it can cause that to quit working. Ill try it out tomorrow or later tonight if I go back out.

I haven’t experienced any hyper flash, I picked up a flasher relay from the local parts store back when I did the switchbacks in the front. So no hyper flash and I am now running LEDs in every light on the outside minus hi and low beam which are HIDs.

I do however have a weird issue that I think I know why it is happening and I’m sure a set of small resistors to lower the voltage leak would stop the problem. But the LEDs in the rear turn signals light up and act like the brake light. The brake light, rear turn signal LEDs, and the dash turn signal indicators all light up 50% when you turn on the parking lights or when the headlights come on. So we all know when we hit the brake pedal the brake light should light up 100% and then if you have your lights on it dims to 50% and lights back up to 100% if you hit the brake. What’s weird is that the turn signal LED and the turn signal indicators on the dash are now doing the same thing. With the parking lights on the turn signal bulbs and the dash indicators are lit up 50%, when I turn my turn signal or hazards on it flashes 100% brightness. When I turn it off it returns to 50% brightness. And if I turn the parking lights off or I force the headlights to turn off they act normal. I think the turn signal LEDs are picking up a voltage leak and since they are made to be used in brake lights and turn signals they are lighting up half way like the LED thinks it is in a brake light location. Honestly other than the dash indicators being light up I don’t mind it, gave me 4 red running lights on the back instead of just the 2. And when you hit the brake or the turn signal the difference from the dim light to the bright is enough that people will still be able to tell I hit my brakes or signaling to turn.
 
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00'BlueSteel

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Welp I lied, lol. Now that I had some time to go out and really check everything out with another person, cruise control no longer works, brake lights are bright but the difference between running light and hitting the brake pedal is not that noticeable doesnt seem safe, turn signals are on at 50% if other lights are on and light up to 100% when the indicator is activated.

Guess I need resistors? I kind of jumped into LEDs in the rear without looking into any of the problems, stupid me lol, gonna do some research and try to figure out how to fix said issues or replace with different bulbs.
 

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Welp I lied, lol. Now that I had some time to go out and really check everything out with another person, cruise control no longer works, brake lights are bright but the difference between running light and hitting the brake pedal is not that noticeable doesnt seem safe, turn signals are on at 50% if other lights are on and light up to 100% when the indicator is activated.

Guess I need resistors? I kind of jumped into LEDs in the rear without looking into any of the problems, stupid me lol, gonna do some research and try to figure out how to fix said issues or replace with different bulbs.
When we start plugging LED's in we never know what's going to happen. It depends on the brand, type, how many are in that particular circuit, if it's turns, brake lights, switchbacks, etc etc. It can def be a challenge. Then in the front we deal with the color match also. I'm sure you'll figure it out.
 

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Welp I lied, lol. Now that I had some time to go out and really check everything out with another person, cruise control no longer works, brake lights are bright but the difference between running light and hitting the brake pedal is not that noticeable doesnt seem safe, turn signals are on at 50% if other lights are on and light up to 100% when the indicator is activated.

Guess I need resistors? I kind of jumped into LEDs in the rear without looking into any of the problems, stupid me lol, gonna do some research and try to figure out how to fix said issues or replace with different bulbs.
That's why I took out mine. Really hard to see when brakes were applied.
 
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00'BlueSteel

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When we start plugging LED's in we never know what's going to happen. It depends on the brand, type, how many are in that particular circuit, if it's turns, brake lights, switchbacks, etc etc. It can def be a challenge. Then in the front we deal with the color match also. I'm sure you'll figure it out.

You ain’t kinding, I spend more time fighting the exterior lighting then anything on my truck. I would love to buy a set of custom headlights and taillights that were like plug and play and would work right without constant fiddling. But I am going to keep pushing forward with the LEDs and get something figured out cause it’s what I want.

That's why I took out mine. Really hard to see when brakes were applied.

Wonder if there is a way to put resistors inline to lower the voltage of the running light stage but allow the brake light stage to still be 100%. That would increase the difference between the light output.
 

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