wiring in a new headunit questions

[AlyssaB]

Okay guys, I received my Kenwood Excelon KDC X597 in the mail last night! I've been doing hours of reading and searching on multiple forums, but haven't found exactly my questions, so please have patience with me if you feel this question is asked too much.

With some helping hands from my roommate, I was able to solder and heat shrink almost all of the wires last night together on the wiring harnesses. After class I will go home and begin the install... first I want to be sure I'm doing the right things.
First: it is a 1999 Yukon SLT OBS, 4dr 2wd, stock sound system(non Bose)

I looked on the harness that came with the HU, and Crutchfield had neatly taped and labeled the wires I "wouldn't" need, which is great for me. The blue power antenna wire is labeled as such and there is also a blue and white wire labeled "power control" and the vibe I'm getting from Kenwood's instructions is that I should wire the amp in at that wire, not the power antenna. Would either of these wires work to turn on the factory amp? I've seen everyone say that the power antenna wire is usable, but I haven't seen anyone mention just a power control wire. I looked under my dash and confirmed I have the factory amp and that it is functional because the rear door speaker that isn't blown still works, so I might as well use it.

Also, should I just accept that I should cut the amp wire inside the truck off of the oem harness and splice it directly into one of these power wires from the headunit? Or should I see if it will work in the harness first?

Last question: as I understand it, the pink wire in the truck is the amp power wire, right?

Thanks in advance for help!

 

[SunlitComet]

for non luxury factory systems>>> the blue/white would hook up to the pink wire in the body side of radio wiring to trigger the amp as it remains on as long as the head unit is active with any sound source. the antenna one would only be active when you actually are listening to radio waves. do not use the hu wire to directly feed a factory amp it will not function and likely break your hu. the factory amp is given direct power on an orange wire controlled by a relay which is triggered by the pink wire. the amp does not have separate power supply and trigger inputs.

 

[AlyssaB]

for non luxury factory systems>>> the blue/white would hook up to the pink wire in the body side of radio wiring to trigger the amp as it remains on as long as the head unit is active with any sound source. the antenna one would only be active when you actually are listening to radio waves. do not use the hu wire to directly feed a factory amp it will not function and likely break your hu. the factory amp is given direct power on an orange wire controlled by a relay which is triggered by the pink wire. the amp does not have separate power supply and trigger inputs.

Sorry, I know the amp doesn't get it's power directly from the HU, I guess I worded my question badly

But as to your first answer, that's what I was worried about. I wanted the amp to work at all times, not just when AM/FM are on. So I will splice the pink wire with the blue and white power control wire.

Thank you for your help! I've seen a lot of your posts in older threads with basically the same question but none of the diagrams you've posted will open up anymore in the threads I saw :/

 

[SunlitComet]

Sorry about that they are from another server and I don't have the extra time to pull every single one down to my own server where they won't cycle out. I have been asking the admins for a couple of years now to allow pdf uploads that would solve all that but get no progress.

 

[AlyssaB]

no problem, I found other diagrams, just needed confirmation on the wires for the amp.

about to go do the install right now!

 

[AlyssaB]

Everything worked on the first try! I cut the pink wire coming from the truck at the harness and crimped the blue and white wire to it and it worked flawlessly. Thank you again for your help! I'm so happy with it, this was my first ever install without anyone here helping me.

Next up, new speakers!

 

[SunlitComet]

6.5" for the doors and 4x10 for the rear roof if optioned.

 

[AlyssaB]

Yeah, I am looking at a few different 6.5s as both my rear door speakers and rear roof speakers are blown. rear roof I'll deal with later...

Why does crutchfield say all the 6.5s need brackets but 6.75 size speakers fit perfectly? and some 6.5s don't fit at all, I'm guessing the mounting depth is the problem?

I already have some Alpine SPS-610C components on their way and I ordered the speaker wire harnesses from crutchfield when I ordered the stereo.
I've heard very good things about these Alpines! Front doors first, then I'll figure out the rear.

 

[SunlitComet]

Might be or they are talking about size of door opening or each individual speaker cage. I use Polk db6501 in front and rear doors without adapters. I even got the front tweeters to fit where the Bose tweeters would go on the door switch panel.

 

[AlyssaB]

You put components in the back doors? Where'd you mount the tweeters? If i had the tools for that sort of project it'd be fun to try. As it is, I'm just looking for components for the front since there's already places to mount the separate pieces.