What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Geotrash

Dave
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Does the '07 not have an oil cooler?
Nope. The factory radiator didn't have the engine oil cooler built in either - only the trans cooler. Apparently it only became standard on later model year Denali's. I installed a new radiator last year that has both coolers, so next time I replace the motor mounts, I'll install engine oil cooler lines, too.
 

the_tool_man

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I changed my oil and emptied the catch can last night. I used my new HF ramps, which worked great. Last change I sprayed off the underside with brake cleaner because it was covered with oil. I was hoping to spot the leak this time. It appears to be coming from the driver side engine block, not the rear main as I'd feared. I guess that's the oil cooler. How much fun will that be (mine's AWD)?

Also, the high-beam switch in the left column stalk is getting intermittent. I can flip it forward to keep the brights on. But the pull-back-to-flash, which I use ALL THE TIME because people are slow, doesn't really work. I guess I wore it out. Is it possible to get in there to clean the switch? Or, should I just buy a new one? They aren't very expensive. But I only want to do it once.
 

t_bergman

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Also, the high-beam switch in the left column stalk is getting intermittent. I can flip it forward to keep the brights on. But the pull-back-to-flash, which I use ALL THE TIME because people are slow, doesn't really work. I guess I wore it out. Is it possible to get in there to clean the switch? Or, should I just buy a new one? They aren't very expensive. But I only want to do it once.

Since it's the steering column and that uses plastic components that I don't want to break or have to also replace, if it were me I'd buy the switch brand new and then call it a day.
 

Geotrash

Dave
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I changed my oil and emptied the catch can last night. I used my new HF ramps, which worked great. Last change I sprayed off the underside with brake cleaner because it was covered with oil. I was hoping to spot the leak this time. It appears to be coming from the driver side engine block, not the rear main as I'd feared. I guess that's the oil cooler. How much fun will that be (mine's AWD)?
I just did mine yesterday on my ‘07 but mine has the block off plate instead of cooler lines - also AWD. The job is a lot easier with a 10mm flex-head ratcheting combination wrench. Watch the torque value on install. You definitely don’t want to have to put a helicoil in there. I had to in my 2012 and it sucked.
 

iamdub

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Drove it to my gf's apartment and parked next to her Durango. Durango is supposedly a mid-size but it looks barely any smaller than my Tahoe. Narrower, for sure:

IMG_1232.JPG


Used it to sweep the dust off the curb:

IMG_1231.JPG


Wednesday evening, I downloaded the Speedometer app since my speedo only goes to 120. Then tested it:

IMG_1288.PNG
 

mountie

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Drove it to my gf's apartment and parked next to her Durango. Durango is supposedly a mid-size but it looks barely any smaller than my Tahoe. Narrower, for sure:

View attachment 427066


Used it to sweep the dust off the curb:

View attachment 427065


Wednesday evening, I downloaded the Speedometer app since my speedo only goes to 120. Then tested it:

View attachment 427067
Remember.... Stock tire treads are rated at certain speeds... But not for an extended amount of time. The damage may not show for a while.... factory treads are attached to the casing with heat, so heat will also loosed some of the adhesive.
( On the highway... when you see a tire tread.... most are from factory tires.)
Retreads are attached to the casing with a "cold-bond" adhesive, and fewer separate.
( Sometimes, the retread will separate a bit at the edges from the casing, but mostly limited to that)
Driving a Bugatti at about 260 mph... No worry about over-heating the tires..... It runs out of gas before the tires get too hot ! :cool:
 

89Suburban

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Doubeleive

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the_tool_man

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Since it's the steering column and that uses plastic components that I don't want to break or have to also replace, if it were me I'd buy the switch brand new and then call it a day.
Yeah, that makes sense. RA didn't have OEM, so I ordered one from a dealer. Paid a little more, but I only want to dig into it once.
 

iamdub

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Remember.... Stock tire treads are rated at certain speeds... But not for an extended amount of time. The damage may not show for a while.... factory treads are attached to the casing with heat, so heat will also loosed some of the adhesive.
( On the highway... when you see a tire tread.... most are from factory tires.)
Retreads are attached to the casing with a "cold-bond" adhesive, and fewer separate.
( Sometimes, the retread will separate a bit at the edges from the casing, but mostly limited to that)

Good point. I had to look it up- My Pirellis are rated to a maximum sustained 149MPH.
Interesting about the cold-versus-hot-bonded retreads.

Driving a Bugatti at about 260 mph... No worry about over-heating the tires..... It runs out of gas before the tires get too hot ! :cool:

Wow.
 

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