What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[95escahoe]

Pulled apart the center console to look into putting LED’s in the clock, ended up taking the console all apart and cleaning it, found out the ash tray lid is cracked so picked up one off EBay should have it back together this week


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[W8TVI]

Looks good. I hope you don't drive with that light bar on
At least on public roads, I hate that.

Nope. It was just for show for the picture.
The thing is, my fog lights are almost as bright as the light bar.

I have the light bar triggering off the fog lights circuit, so if I want to light up the night, I only have to push one button.

If I use them on the road, I only use them when it would be safe to use high beams.

Eventually I am going to install a separate switch for just the light bar.

 

[Bombsquad85]

Nope. It was just for show for the picture.
The thing is, my fog lights are almost as bright as the light bar.

I have the light bar triggering off the fog lights circuit, so if I want to light up the night, I only have to push one button.

If I use them on the road, I only use them when it would be safe to use high beams.

Eventually I am going to install a separate switch for just the light bar.

That's a pretty good idea. You could also have them wired up to high beams I guess since the dogs cut off with highs

 

[02_Tahoe]

Since no one is answering my thread in audio and electronics I figured I’d ask here. I’m selling my 12” subs to get a new setup. What I want is to put these 6.5” “subwoofers” (that’s what they’re calling them) in my doors and plug back in my stock tweeters, and do the amp bypass. Would that work ok? I’m not trying to have another setup where I need an amp and a shit ton of wires again. I just want something clean that sounds good with decent bass. Is there anything else I would need to do/have. Is the headunit enough to power them. I go more into depth in my thread. Here’s the link to the speakers I’m looking at. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008MAG9YG/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

[clandr1]

Last Friday night I replaced my driver side front wheel bearing/hub assembly. Went surprisingly quickly and was painless - took me just under an hour from start to finish. I'll tackle the passenger side when the other assembly arrives this Friday.

 

[throwback2]

Got the new subwoofer for the rear today and installed with a little roto zip work.Sounds good. Also hit another bid on Ebay for a second set of 6'5" speakers for the rear doors.

 

[95escahoe]

Got these GM door pins & bushings in yesterday need to replace the ones on the driver door

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[05Single]

Since no one is answering my thread in audio and electronics I figured I’d ask here. I’m selling my 12” subs to get a new setup. What I want is to put these 6.5” “subwoofers” (that’s what they’re calling them) in my doors and plug back in my stock tweeters, and do the amp bypass. Would that work ok? I’m not trying to have another setup where I need an amp and a shit ton of wires again. I just want something clean that sounds good with decent bass. Is there anything else I would need to do/have. Is the headunit enough to power them. I go more into depth in my thread. Here’s the link to the speakers I’m looking at. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008MAG9YG/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Get some components and add a sub in the rear. You need that mid bass to fill in between the highs and lows

 

[PG01]

Get some components and add a sub in the rear. You need that mid bass to fill in between the highs and lows

How’s that earthquake there buddy?

 

[05Single]

Got the new subwoofer for the rear today and installed with a little roto zip work.Sounds good. Also hit another bid on Ebay for a second set of 6'5" speakers for the rear doors.

Nice, but on this site we post