Paint Resto-shine and wax

[jarydM]

This isn't my area of expertise. I know how to was a vehicle, and I've used clay bar to restore clearcoat shine, but I wanna defer to some experts on a true polish. After I get my parts colormatched, I wanna get the outside looking new again.

so, @Fosscore and @Bigbeardenali1992 what do you guys use?

 

[Fosscore]

I think BigBear has a truck load of goodies and I know he will chime in soon with his specific professional methods. I'll share with you how I do it to my trucks.

• Wash
• Clay (take your time as this will set you up for the polishing by getting rid of all the crud that is sitting on your clear coat. Keep folding and turning the clay and use an instant detailer to keep the paint and clay lubricated. Keep feeling it with your fingers and you will know when your clay doesn't catch anymore that you are good to go in that spot)
• Wash again
• Dry
• Tape off/cover any plastics/window trim etc...that you do not want to hit with the polisher or get product on
• Depending on how your paint looks with scratches or dull spots, etc....this is the time to correct with some Cleaner Wax/Compound (I like the Meguiar's Ultimate
• Compound as it isn't too harsh but works well on those tough spots. I have not wet sanded my clear coat, so anything that needs more aggressive work, I will defer to someone else
• 
  
• Polishers and pad choice is a personal and budgetary choice. A dual action polisher makes it pretty easy and less likely to burn through unless you hold it down really hard in one spot. The big 10 inch polishers can do some damage if you are not used to how much pressure and speed you need for each step.
• I use a wool pad during this cleaner wax removal step. Keep your pad clean/spurred and use enough but not too much product to work for you with the polisher. Lots of fresh, clean microfibers for cleaning up. This is also a good time to polish out those water spots on your windows and maybe give your tail lights and head lights a polish as well. Depending on how bad they are you may wait until you move into the next step with the foam pads and not so aggressive on the plastics.
• If you really want to go deep, take your roof rack off and go to town. The roof will take you quite a while with the ridges and once you start seeing the difference in how beat up it is, you will not be able to stop.
• Autogeek.net has so many videos and tips as well for back up and the detailing section here on TYF.
• I am partial to 3M products as well as we use a lot for marine use and they are readily handy, at least for me in Florida.
• They have a 3 step that I use as well called the 3M Perfect It
• not cheap but goes from a little more aggressive for oxidation without being their heavy rubbing compound up to fine polish for 2000 and better scratches polishing out. This is what I like, but I know other guys will have their choice.
• Changing to foam pads at this point and keeping them clean or changing them out once they become too loaded with product and of course soaking them to use them again on another project.
• Once you are happy with the steps leading up to this point as the product is getting the paint really shiny, it is time seal and coat the final steps. Make sure before you move to each successive step that you are happy with what it looks like as you climb that polishing ladder you are starting to go finer and finer and once you coat things, it is a bit of effort to go back to the clay bar stage with nothing on the paint.
• Again so many products and everyone has personal picks. I picked up some Surf City Garage before I got the Trinova Stuff that was given away on TYF (going to use this on the next detail)
• 
  
• Seal it then Glaze it. Maybe I'll even go one step further and coat it with some Collinite's 845 Insulator Wax just because.
• 
  
• After all this is done, I use spray detailer in between and a TYF favorite that I now use Lucas Oil Slick Mist Speed Wax when I am drying after a wash. Helps dry, water beads up and harder for the bugs and anything else to adhere to the clear coat and coats your fresh wax job even more. Makes successive washes a bit easier.
• 
  
• I think that about covers it. Lots of elbow grease and sweat. Plan on an entire day, maybe 2 depending on the state of your paint and how much effort you want to put into it.
• Anything else just ask.

@jarydM

 

[jarydM]

Excellent. thanks!

 

[MrBalll]

Can be a very expensive habit if you stick with it. I've spent way too much money in the last few months on new polishes and soaps and everything else.
I just started using Chemical Guys products. Really liking them so far. They have several detailed videos on YouTube on how to do everything you need.

And like stated above a polisher will go a long way and save you a ton of time.

 

[adventurenali92]

I think fosscore covered it as for good steps to follow. I use all the same steps when I'm polishing a clients vehicle. I just differ in product choices. I'm glad he mentioned the Lucas oil slick mist. That's one of my favorites as far as quick detailer spray. However I also use it as clay lube and it works fantastically for that. As Mr ball said chemical guys makes many excellent products. I will actually be at their main showroom facility this weekend for a big event and some detailing tech sessions and product demos. I also need to stock up on product. Lol. That's where most of my line up of product comes from, especially polish products. The 3M products are freat, as wlel as megiuars. Megiuars makes some excellent polish products that I use, however my go to polishes are chemical guys. Their V line is excellent and there are several different ones from mild light polishes to aggressive polishes. They have several quick detailer sprays that I'm fond of using as well, and you can order them in gallon sizes to have plenty on hand for claying and wiping in between steps. ×2 on being careful about using your machine. Although 90% of my polish jobs at least I use my little orbital porter cable for, and that had enough power to take down scratches and what not covering clear coat. And with that machine it's damn near impossible to burn any paint surfaces. On headlights I do use a dual action machine to polish out, as it has a little more power. As for pads I use the hex logic foam pads to polish, which chemical guys sell, and they work well! As as mr ball said above, chemical guys has many detail instructional videos, more than a few. They have a whole YouTube channel with videos covering most detailing topics that are great informational and easy to follow videos for the DIY guys that clean and detail their own rigs.

 

[adventurenali92]

Forgot to mention too, like Fosscore said, plenty of clean microfiber towels ready to go is a must have. Chemical guys sells a ton of excellent microfiber products and they always do big sales on them. I'd check out their website to see their setup and what specials are currently running.

 

[MrBalll]

I will actually be at their main showroom facility this weekend for a big event and some detailing tech sessions and product demos.

Lots of jealousy here.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

This will help get you started.

I have finally collected basically everything that I need to complete a paint correction... dying to find time to do it. Both of my large black vehicles need touch ups and a two step correction.

https://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/wiki/index

 

[adventurenali92]

Lots of jealousy here.

The benefits to being only 2 and a half hours outside Los Angeles! Haha. The event this weekend is called rides and coffee. Little mini car show with some tech sessions and product giveaways. Really looking forward to it.

 

[adventurenali92]

This explains why I have no friends! Lol